Macroalgae dieing

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aquaticco

New member
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Jun 2, 2006
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Location
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Anthony,

I had the pleasure of meeting you in Atlanta recently at our SWU2 conference. I enjoyed your speech and have decided to start up a macroalgae farm in the near future.

My question is this. I currently have a 20 gallon tall refugium which I have been using as my refugium for several years. However I have never been able to really grow any macroalgae. As soon as I put any type of macro into this tank it turns white and withers away. I first thought it was lighting so I put a 175 watt MH overhead, no change. I have recently tried reducing the waterflow and still don't see any changes.

My calcium is around 450, my alk is around 9, I also add Iron, Iodine, Magnesium and strontium weekly and none of this is helping.

I know I don't have a great green thumb but I did not think it would be this difficult.

Any suggestions would be greatly appretiated.

Doug
 
Welcome to RF Doug! Hope you enjoy it here:) Just a thought while you wait on Anthony Calfo to chime in, but have you tried different spectrum bulbs? I don't think increasing the wattage is as important as getting the right spectrum from what I have read over the forum about chaeto. Just a thought...Hope you get sorted out soon:)
 
Yep, seems the same to me. The cheap PC spotlights you get at home depot work about as good as anything. More light seems to make the chaeto grow into denser clumps, but not any faster.
 
Its all about wavelegnth. Most aquairum bulbs will barely support macros living.

Homedepot sells a 2700k spiral compact florecent spotlight bulb. Its self ballasted, it includes a glass spotlamp reflector which in my testing yeilded more light in the water than 4 normal spiral bulbs without the relfectors.

They sell in 4 packs for $19.99
 
bulb1.sized.jpg

bulb_inside.sized.jpg


That second pic is so you can see what the inside of the bulb looks like. They come in these clear plastic blister packs with 4 of them. I've seen the paper packageing in the packs be both blue and green, but the model number is always the same. Very common item, each store generally stocks +50 of these 4 packs.
 
Macroalgae is a plant. It's going to need some source of nitrogen in order to perform photosynthesis also. You don't mention if this is attached to a fish system or just stand alone, but that might be your limiting factor.

Barbie
 
Doug

What type of MH 175 W did you use ? What ever kind the spectrum should be fine. What kind of macro's are they ? What are your PO4 and NO3 levels. I think you have a water quality issue. What is the temp of the refugium ? Why are you adding Iodine, that is not a good idea. You add iron but what level is it at and what kind is it. Iron should only be added when the iron is chelated. Your problems seem like a nutrient limiting issue. Also what is the pH and Alk ? Is your skimmer in the refug ?

Live

That is a cool bulb

Krish

I will have to disagree with you guys on spectrum, wattage is more important than spectrum as long as the spec is within reason. Live's bulbs are only 2700K and most plants will do well at that spec if the output is enough. Many of us use to run MV bulbs @ 6K and plants grew like weeds.
 
Krish

I will have to disagree with you guys on spectrum, wattage is more important than spectrum as long as the spec is within reason. Live's bulbs are only 2700K and most plants will do well at that spec if the output is enough. Many of us use to run MV bulbs @ 6K and plants grew like weeds.

No problem Boomer...I've never kept a macro so I really don't know "what is what" when it comes to using them for nutrient export. That was the reason why I said that my info came from what I read and gathered here on the forum and other places not what I knew as facts. Thanks for the clarification:)
 
Boomer, perhaps you could help me understand a problem I had with macro algae.

A few years back, I started out useing 2x10k 55watt reflected (as well as a stupid CF bulb can be reflected) bulbs mounted close to the surface of the chaeto. The chaeto stayed mostly alive, but growth was poor, doubleing on a +1month interval.

After seeing how rapid the growth on my dads FO tank filtered by chaeto was, I decided I needed to pump things up a bit. He was useing this yellow looking 400watt MH bulb.

So, I talked to some people and decided to make a 6.5k high power lighting setup over the chaeto. I had 9x27watt CF spiral bulbs with 6.5k color temp. Each bulb had its own DIY cone reflector around them.

I set them up over my fuge, and for a couple days, nothing looked different, then the chaeto just slowly turned clear and very soft and weak, and then appeared to all be dead.

Now, the amount of light I was getting to the chaeto here was huge, but no growth or life. In later experiements I did where I kept some chaeto in the fuge in darkness, its death followed the same pattern, and took roughly the same amount of time.

Anyways, after swapping to the above shown bulbs with a 2700k color temp, they chaeto doubles 2-3times a week during heavy feeding, and minimum of 1 doubleing per week if I feed nothing.

Now, I realize color temp is just nearly an arbitrary number assigned to represent a weighted average of sorts from the collection of wavelegnth types emmited. Knowing this, I realize that a different 6.5k bulb may grow chaeto like crazy, and that other 2.7k bulbs may kill it. However, from this personal observation, I have a strong belief that wavelegnth plays a larger factor than wattage.

Can you help me understand what I am missing? I dont doubt what you said above, but my experience seems to be so contrary that it leaves me puzzled.

Thank you for your valuable time sir,
-Luke
 
Luke

Wattage and K mean much of nothing unless it is coupled to output either in Lumens, foot candles or PAR. People often like to throw out K and wattage with no ref. to ouput. Wattage tells you nothing about K and K says nothing about wattage. And even K does not say much really about wavelength, without looking at is SED curve but you aready know that I think / statement. Two 6.5 K bulbs can show a significant differrence in their SED's. Look at the wattage of your bulbs, they are all over the place but you do not give Lumen output. Finally, it is your tank with your water param's which may suit you best with the bulbs you ended up with.

Sanjay and Harker have also run some tests on corals, althoguh not macro alage, have found that K does have input but it is very little when compaired to PAR.

Also, we have a very large marine plant forum on RC and you will find wattages and K's all over the place. Some there use the same bulbs you are :D ( as I just found out) Most professional growers will tell you that you really do not need very high K' s like over 6500K. Matter of fact, marine algae do better at lower K's with the ranges of 4K to 6.6 K. You are in the 2.7 K which is like HPS. What I'm saying is that there are many successful reefers with refugiums that have K's nowhere near the low levels you are using and do just fine, chaeto growing like weeds. IMHO it is more of a water issue than lighting and you need to fit the light to the water issue, as long as the system is not nutrient limited. There is allot more that meets the eye than just K ;) All you have to do is look at the light asorbing pigemnst that macor's have, which prety much spells it out as to what lamp would usually fit best.

Thank you for your valuable time sir

Please stop calling me sir, I'm just an avg dickhead, sometimes a very big one :D My hobby now is giving my time ;)

I forgot getting old :lol:

I had 9x27watt CF spiral .....6.K...2700K

Are these both PAR bulbs ? And usually more W means more lumen output
 
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The 6.5kk 27watt bulbs were rated for 1700lumen output. The 2.7kk 23watt bulbs I use now are rated to 1450lumens. Now, I realize the light output rateings are often falsely boosted by 10-20% or more, but reguardless, both bulbs should only be makeing light in the PAR wavelegnth range.



As a total side note, corals seem to have mechanisms for relfecting light off the skeleton and changeing the wavelegnth to suit there needs (dont ask me how they do it, because without frequency doubleling crystals, im helpless when it comes to changeing wavelegnth).

As a second side note, a guy i talked to about hydroponicly growing tomatoes and other plants informed me that he can totally control the plant growth by swapping the color of the bulbs. Don't quote me here, but I belive he said with strong green and blue light the plants would rapidly grow stalks/stem/and leaves, but would never flower and produce tomatoes. After he grew the plants structure to the level he desired, he swapped the green bulbs for red ones, and the plants would no longer grow any taller, but would imeadiately begin to flower and soon would produce huge amounts of tomatoes.


As another bit of data to this effect, at least 3 people on this board have switched from much higher light output 6k-10k compact florecent lighting on there refugiums and switched to the bulbs I showed the pictures of above. All of them have told me that the chaeto has never grown so rapidly or looked as healthy, even with par being at least halved.


Now, I do not understand beyond the simple effect of photosynthisis.

"In plants, the light-dependent reactions occur in the thylakoid membranes of the chloroplasts and use light energy to synthesize ATP and NADPH. The photons are captured in the antenna complexes of photosystem I and II by chlorophyll and accessory pigments (see diagram at right). When a chlorophyll a molecule at a photosystem's reaction center absorbs energy, an electron is excited and transferred to an electron-acceptor molecule through a process called Photoinduced charge separation. These electrons are shuttled through an electron transport chain, the so called Z-scheme shown in the diagram, that initially functions to generate a chemiosmotic potential across the membrane. An ATP synthase enzyme uses the chemiosmotic potential to make ATP during photophosphorylation while NADPH is a product of the terminal redox reaction in the Z-scheme.

Water photolysis

The NADPH is the main reducing agent in chloroplasts, providing a source of energetic electrons to other reactions. Its production leaves chlorophyll with a deficit of electrons (oxidized), which must be obtained from some other reducing agent. The excited electrons lost from chlorophyll in photosystem I are replaced from the electron transport chain by plastocyanin. However, since photosystem II includes the first steps of the Z-scheme, an external source of electrons is required to reduce its oxidized chlorophyll a molecules. This role is played by water during a reaction known as photolysis and results in water being split to give electrons, oxygen and hydrogen ions. Photosystem II is the only known biological enzyme that carries out this oxidation of water. Initially, the hydrogen ions from photolysis contribute to the chemiosmotic potential, but eventually they combine with the hydrogen carrier molecule NADP+ to form NADPH. Oxygen is a waste product of light-independent reactions, but the majority of organisms on Earth use oxygen for cellular respiration, including photosynthetic organisms.

Oxygen and photosynthesis

With respect to oxygen and photosynthesis, there are two important concepts.
Plant and algal cells also use oxygen for cellular respiration, although they have a net output of oxygen since much more is produced during photosynthesis.
Oxygen is a product of the photolysis reaction not the fixation of carbon dioxide, during the light-independent reactions. Consequently, the source of oxygen during photosynthesis is water, not carbon dioxide."


That way overly simplified bit copied from wikipedia is easy to understand, but I need something to get much much deeper to actaully begin to see down and dirty as to what is occuring.

I assume you have that deeper down and dirty understanding that I need, and I also belive you wouldnt tell me that lumens / PAR is all that matters if you didnt understand and trust your reason behind saying it.

So, unless this is simply a matter of pigment color and reflection, I would really appreciate if you could share some of your knowledge with me, or at least give me a link or two that could explain beyond the simp type stuff I posted above that doesnt get nearly deep enough. I'm looking for something beyond the stuff where it shows the little diagram of the photon strikeing the thylakoid membrane, an electron getting excited, and a little diagram of an H atom jumping on a CO2 molicule, and an O getting displaced...

I respect you and Mojo both very much, and it only seems natural to call you both Sir. I'll try to cut back though ;)

thanks again
-Luke
 
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Luke

I still will go back to my original comments on K and SED curves. Without seeing an SED it is hard to say much. You mentioned hydroponics, that is a good example. They sell lights across the board but as I mentioned lamps in the high K's are just not a good idea. One of the lamps that you will see allot of are HPS, which have similar K's to you lamps. However, HPS also have the highest Lumen output value of any lamp. Many of these lamps have the proper peaks for plant growth in the red and green, despite their K. The better ones have a special blue added to them. It may very well be that these lamps you have found are doing the same thing and the 6.5 K you were using just do not make it, which may all be just a function of its SED. So, what I'm still saying is, that K is a misleading value. Another 2700 K lamp may have a very different SED. And IMHO this is the real issue. To me the most important for choosing a lamp is are; SED--> PAR ( and Lumens) ---> Wattage--->K.

Here are some websites on lamps with SED and bulb K's.

http://www.discount-hydro.com/lightbulbs.asp
http://ioannis.virtualcomposer2000.com/spectroscope/amici.html

Look at the difference between the different 3K lamps in SED
http://toptropicals.com/html/aqua/lamps/spectra/spectra1.htm

Something to play with that gives "pure" SED based on K
http://csep10.phys.utk.edu/guidry/java/wien/wien.html

at least 3 people on this board have switched from much higher light
output 6k-10k


I will not argue that but that does not mean this is the only lamp or that 2700K in any lamp is the best.

corals seem to have mechanisms for relfecting light off the skeleton and changeing the wavelegnth

That is true and they can also change wave lengths to a degree. It is one of the ways they get around/use UV.

Corals
http://www.reefs.org/library/talklog/s_tyree_060202.html
 
sorry for the delay in reply my friends, I was out of country for the last two weeks (new coral farm in Sri Lanka :))

just a thanks to all of the folks giving exclennt input here... focus on warm, high PAR daylight lamps (seek 5-10 watts per gallon minimum), steady(!) source of nitrogen for growth, excellent water flow to stimulate (30X min likely here)... monospecific culture only at first at least please (no mixing genera).

I'm suggesting Chaetomorpha for starters... very hardy and salable (the wholesalers are begging for it for the hobby and science industries)
 
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