Man this is hard!

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There's absolutely nothing wrong with those pictures!!! They're great. What type of camera are you using? If it's a point and shoot, are you using the Macro mode? Let us know what type of equipment you're using and I'm sure we can help you out...but again, those are real nice pics.
 
woah that tank looks HUGE :D. i like how much open room there is what are the dimensions?
 
Thanks :) I am really critical of my own photography! Nikon D40 w/18-200mm lens (not really macro ready ;) ) SB600 flash with a nifty little softbox attachment & tripod. Even tried holding a flashlight on the coral, but that was a waste of time, but I am sure funny to watch. WB is where I'm stuck...tried all settings but nothing that really gets the right color??? I may try in the daylight, maybe that will help.

Thanks! Tank is 160 gal, 5 ft wide, about 24 inches deep and 28 inches tall. We have the sump and refugium in the basement with all the other stuff. My husband does all the tinkering, I get to pick the livestock!
 
Read up on how to set your camera's custom white balance. I'm a Canon guy, so I'm not sure on the Nikon procedure, but I'm sure it's an available option. Use a tripod, keep the lens perpendicular to the glass (no angle shots). With a tripod, you can slow down the shutter speed, which will enable you to take the pics without a flash. With that particular lens, zoomed out to 200, you should be able to use a tripod and set it a coupla feet from the glass. Not sure what the minimum focus distance is at 200mm.

Try these settings on a tripod, and after setting a custom white balance to your tank.
Manual
aperture wide open
shutter at as fast as you can get it while still getting enough light, without flash. Might have to dial it down to 60-80.
If you have adequate lighting, try closing the aperture some, to get a wider FOV (Field of View).
If you have a remote shutter, use it. Otherwise, use a timed shutter. This will eliminate any "shake" from you pressing the shutter button.
 
I usually just shoot in RAW mode, edit my pics and adjust them manually to the correct coloring, kinda cheating but it works very good. Takes the guess work out of setting the white balance, especially under actinics.
 
As Tony said, Use Raw!! And Tony.... It's not cheating. In fact, it's sometimes more difficult. Our cameras, when in Jpeg mode, lose a lot of the information. When shooting in RAW, all the information is stored. Post editing work must be done, using a RAW processor. RAW shooting also takes up A LOT more memory. But, once you learn to use it, it's a very powerful tool. Unfortunately, I haven't worked in RAW yet. Keep meaning to try it, but haven't yet.
 
Timed shutter, duh. I was taking the shots barely pressing my finger on the shutter button to avoid shake thinking to myself "I wish I had a remote for this thing!"
I have never used custom WB. Do you calibrate with a gray/white card according to your tank lighting, then?
I set the shutter speed was as fast as I could go with each shot, but my lens is pretty slow. f5.6 when it's fully zoomed in. Fully open it's f3.5. I had to go pretty slow on the shutter speed (60) to get many of the shots but then got that little halo from shake I think. Have you ever tried any other lighting besides flash? Like (this is kinda sad, but only other supplemental lighting I can think of right now) a shop light or something? Would that irritate the fish/coral I wonder?

Read up on how to set your camera's custom white balance. I'm a Canon guy, so I'm not sure on the Nikon procedure, but I'm sure it's an available option. Use a tripod, keep the lens perpendicular to the glass (no angle shots). With a tripod, you can slow down the shutter speed, which will enable you to take the pics without a flash. With that particular lens, zoomed out to 200, you should be able to use a tripod and set it a coupla feet from the glass. Not sure what the minimum focus distance is at 200mm.

Try these settings on a tripod, and after setting a custom white balance to your tank.
Manual
aperture wide open
shutter at as fast as you can get it while still getting enough light, without flash. Might have to dial it down to 60-80.
If you have adequate lighting, try closing the aperture some, to get a wider FOV (Field of View).
If you have a remote shutter, use it. Otherwise, use a timed shutter. This will eliminate any "shake" from you pressing the shutter button.
 
LOL, I typically shoot RAW, but kept seeing comments like "not photoshopped" and thought I shouldn't cheat like I do in my portrait work!
 
The D40 doesn't remote that flash but If you could it is a really nice feature to have. Adjusting W/B under your lights can be tricky, get a piece of white paper & stick it as close to under those lights as you can to get an accurate measurement & use that. I always prefer using a flash over the tank lights, it will out power any lighting system & the flash you have can do it but just not with that body unfortunately. :(
I like working with RAW but only when I have patients LOL You can still do a lot with the high end of Jpegs & it is easier to deal with.
 
For CWB, I use a white styrofoam plate in the tank. I take a picture of it and then use that picture to custom white balance too. If your lighting is real heavy on the blue side, this might not work as good. Tony has been messing with his Kelvin settings on his Canon, with very good results. I'll let him explain that.
 
Those pictures look really good I guess I’m not sure what you’re looking for but maybe this would help. If you have a lens cover like on my Panasonic DMC-FZ7 you could use a close up lens. Not as good as a macro but it works ok. Just a cheep camera but it works for me. This is some of the stuff I’ve taken with the close up lens screwed to the lens cover.
http://media6.dropshots.com/photos/570488/20081106/205209.jpg
http://media8.dropshots.com/photos/570488/20081106/212057.jpg
http://media6.dropshots.com/photos/570488/20081106/205059.jpg
http://media6.dropshots.com/photos/570488/20090321/220518.jpg
 
Thanks for the suggestions and compliments. My husband gets all the credit for plumbing, water quality and all the dirty work, I get to decorate and choose corals and research what they need. This is our first reef tank, has been fish only before so I am looking forward to documenting its growth (hopefully.) :) I am going to work w/CWB this weekend and see how far I get. The photography part of the fish tank is one of my favorite things about it! The carpet doesn't get wet and I get to just stare at the tank :) I really love looking at everyone photos, too, keep posting them!
 
I kinda have been cheating a little bit. If you take a picture using the RAW format and edit it, you can manually adjust your kelvin temperature in the editor until the picture colors look good. I think I usually find that a Kelvin temp around 6500-7000 works out in my tank. Think of it this way, if your are using MH bulbs, they should have a kelvin rating right on them, you could just start out with that number and see how it comes out, however, I think actinics will tend to bring the temperature number down quite a bit. My lights are T5 with 10k white bulbs and actinics. Then if your camera has a kelvin white balance option, select that option and set your cameras kelvin temperature to the number you have found to work out good when editing the RAW image, if that makes sense. It should get you pretty close, and then of course you can still edit it to make it perfect. I think depending on what you are shooting in the tank, up high, under shade, or under full lights, can throw colors off even as you just move around your tank taking pictures. The problem with setting your white balance to a white plate under actinics is you are looking at a white plate that is blue from the lights, which is what you want, a blue plate, thats what the lights are supposed to do. So if you tell your camera that the "blue plate" is actually white, then it adjusts the camera settings so that if you take a picture of the plate again, it will appear white, so you can only imagine what that would do to the colors of the corals, in effect you are negating the effects of the actinics.

For CWB, I use a white styrofoam plate in the tank. I take a picture of it and then use that picture to custom white balance too. If your lighting is real heavy on the blue side, this might not work as good. Tony has been messing with his Kelvin settings on his Canon, with very good results. I'll let him explain that.
 
I see what you are saying, that totally makes sense. How do you figure out the kelvin with a combination of actinic and 10K white bulbs then? Did you just play around, or is there some sort of math going on? I think we might even have two 12K but I have to check. I use Lightroom & shoot RAW so it would be easy to set a temperature to apply to all the fish tank photos automatically if I found something that worked most of the time.

I kinda have been cheating a little bit. If you take a picture using the RAW format and edit it, you can manually adjust your kelvin temperature in the editor until the picture colors look good. I think I usually find that a Kelvin temp around 6500-7000 works out in my tank. Think of it this way, if your are using MH bulbs, they should have a kelvin rating right on them, you could just start out with that number and see how it comes out, however, I think actinics will tend to bring the temperature number down quite a bit. My lights are T5 with 10k white bulbs and actinics. Then if your camera has a kelvin white balance option, select that option and set your cameras kelvin temperature to the number you have found to work out good when editing the RAW image, if that makes sense. It should get you pretty close, and then of course you can still edit it to make it perfect. I think depending on what you are shooting in the tank, up high, under shade, or under full lights, can throw colors off even as you just move around your tank taking pictures. The problem with setting your white balance to a white plate under actinics is you are looking at a white plate that is blue from the lights, which is what you want, a blue plate, thats what the lights are supposed to do. So if you tell your camera that the "blue plate" is actually white, then it adjusts the camera settings so that if you take a picture of the plate again, it will appear white, so you can only imagine what that would do to the colors of the corals, in effect you are negating the effects of the actinics.
 
I just shoot the tank in RAW mode, then edit the RAW image and see what kelvin temp I have to adjust the image to while editing to get the pictures to "look" the right color. Then I can set my camera to that kelvin temp. I hope that makes sense! :D

I see what you are saying, that totally makes sense. How do you figure out the kelvin with a combination of actinic and 10K white bulbs then? Did you just play around, or is there some sort of math going on? I think we might even have two 12K but I have to check. I use Lightroom & shoot RAW so it would be easy to set a temperature to apply to all the fish tank photos automatically if I found something that worked most of the time.
 

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