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jc130b

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I found a sump it is bigger then I was looking for, but for the price I couldn't pass it up. One question I have is (I will try to explain in plain english lol) is in picture 1 looking at the side view it has 2 holes in the 1st baffle. The way it looks to me the water level is going to stay the same thru out the whole sump (look at pic 2). Don't I want the water to flow over the baffle (as shown in pic 3). The other problem I see with the holes being there is the refuge cheato will get into the inlet area where I will have the skimmer. So I'm thinking I need to plug the holes, What do you think?
Thanks
 
I think if you just think of this baffle as a raised one, that is how it would behave. More or less a bubble wall, but instead of the gap being right at the bottom, it is raised a bit (maybe would collect detritus at the bottom instead of it just washing through?)

Seems like kind of a funky way to do it. Wonder if you want to mod this a bit with more baffles to make it more effecient at removing microbubbles?
 
75 gal tank. It just fits inside the stand with only a couple of inches to spare. It will be hard doing maintenance on stuff, but it can be done.
 
I was thinking of getting a good hang on skimmer for the first section and use the second section for a refuge.
 
Ah, got it. I thought 'cause space was tight you couldn't use a HOB skimmer. The middle section is definitely a better size for the refugium.

I had a similar situation recently...got a WetDry type sump with a tank I picked up. It had a small bio ball tower, then another 7" section and that partition had the holes in the middle like yours (except round). I also wanted to split the overflow into 75% skimmer section and 25% refugium, with the refugium spilling into the skimmer section. I had to remove a baffle...not real pretty, then scab a new baffle to the one with the holes in the middle (this one also served to raise the level of the refugium. Here are some pics:

You can see here where I removed the BioBall baffle:
l8sa8.jpg


Here you can see the new black baffle installed to raise the refugium and block the mid-baffle holes:
fz3ggw.jpg


With water...you can see how I have the overflow split...I think the refugium can benefit from unskimmed water...probably minimal, but who knows:
jkul2u.jpg


And here it is in action under the tank:
214fit.jpg
 
Nice setup. I don't have as much room as you do, so instead of cutting the sump up and making things work, I'm going with a return pump inside the sump (will be kinda hard to do maintenance on it, but can be done) and I was thinking of using the Eshopps PSK-100H hang on skimmer (again will be kinda hard to do maintenance on it, but can be done). A couple of pics to show how tight the sump is. In the first pic you can see the holes in the buffle I'm talking about. Any suggestions would be appricated, I know it is tight, but for the price I couldn't pass it up and I figure the bigger the better lol.
 
So what's your ability to work with the acrylic? Do you have any tools?

Is that 1/4" acrylic? I imagine that's why they have the top on like that. It will definitely make access a bit more challenging. I'd think the baffles would give you enough lateral support....you might consider cutting that top off. The in sump return is a fine idea...consider an eheim, mine is super quiet. As for the holes, I'd just get a few squares of acylic (1/4" should do) and attach them over the holes with some weldon 16.
 
I don't have any expirence working with acrylic, but I have have tools to cut the top off, and I was thinking of doing that as the water level will only be about 1/2 I don't think cutting the top off will hurt the support. Any idea on the GPH eheim pump I should use?
Thanks
 
what size is the tank again?

I'm using an eheim 1262 on my system (see below) and at 5 foot headpressure, it is giving me around 600-650 (supposedly) gph. This could even be a bit over what is needed, as I think it might be moving water through the sump faster than my protein skimmer can handle it.

Anyway, I'm very happy with the eheim pumps, low power consumption (less heat) and runs very quietly.
 
Tank is 75 gal. I just measured and if I use tubing from the bottom of the sump to the top of the tank it is 4 1/2 feet. Do you use a spray bar on the return or does it just dump in from the return tube?
 
I don't have any expirence working with acrylic, but I have have tools to cut the top off, and I was thinking of doing that as the water level will only be about 1/2 I don't think cutting the top off will hurt the support. Any idea on the GPH eheim pump I should use?
Thanks

It's pretty easy...not radically different than working with wood. And you can use many of the same tools. I'd recommend using a table saw if at all possible to remove that top. You're exactly right about the support, at only half full normally you shouldn't have any issues.
 
Tank is 75 gal. I just measured and if I use tubing from the bottom of the sump to the top of the tank it is 4 1/2 feet. Do you use a spray bar on the return or does it just dump in from the return tube?

You might look at the Eheim 1260 as well, with the 4.5 feet of height and a few bends you should be right around 5-8x your tank volume for flow. I'd avoid the spraybar...they can be a pain to keep clean, and then you need a reliable siphon break. You could go with a split loc-line set up...or something like a Sea Swirl if you want to get fancy. Just make sure the return isn't lower than your sump can handle on a power failure.
 
The way I did my return might not be the best, as I might be losing a bit of pressure. Its done with 3/4" pipe. After it enters the tank water, I put in a T piece, then short (2-3" pieces of pipe) and then 45 degree bends at the end of those, so the return projects 2 streams aimed slightly down and towards the front corners of the tank.

It seems to work good though for me.
 
You might look at the Eheim 1260 as well, with the 4.5 feet of height and a few bends you should be right around 5-8x your tank volume for flow. I'd avoid the spraybar...they can be a pain to keep clean, and then you need a reliable siphon break. You could go with a split loc-line set up...or something like a Sea Swirl if you want to get fancy. Just make sure the return isn't lower than your sump can handle on a power failure.

I just looked up the seaswirl and it is a interesting device. I don't really need to get that fancy and for the price I could spend the money for other things.
 
The way I did my return might not be the best, as I might be losing a bit of pressure. Its done with 3/4" pipe. After it enters the tank water, I put in a T piece, then short (2-3" pieces of pipe) and then 45 degree bends at the end of those, so the return projects 2 streams aimed slightly down and towards the front corners of the tank.

It seems to work good though for me.

Good idea, I like it
 
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