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plumber_bob

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2004
Messages
207
Location
Federal Way
I'm really excited to be a part of Reeffrontiers and help out with as much as I can with the Nano environment. I'm sorry if I haven't started any topics lately, July and August are really crazy for me. I will also post some updated pictures of my tank soon. Everything is growing great and I will list the equipment I use along with the method.

Bobby
 
Very cool! I could use some nano advise. My daughter 20g high BB has been up for a few month. PITA so we have a new tank comming with a hole drilled for an over flow and one for a return. I'm thinking a 10g sump is plenty.

Can you recomend:

Return pump size for sps tank? This will be the only water flow, split going different directions with loc-line.

Heater Wattage? Now is 200.

Floresent lights 12" off water? For before and after 175w MH's.

Would a Turbo floater t1000 over-skim this tank?

Thanks
Don
 
Don, on the heater, 200W will be sufficient for a 20 gallon. 150W is already sufficient, but a little extra doesn't hurt.

For a pump, I would suggest a MAG drive series, probably a MAG 7, or even a MAG 9 if using SQWD and with a lot of elbows or "heads" in plumbing, and this would eliminate the need for powerheads in the small tank.

A single 175 MH bulb will be sufficient, and maybe one PC bulb. The sump will help with cooling needs, as you can put a fan over it.

I had a 25 gallon Tall as my first tank, and i could see it using the setup I mentioned above.

- Elmo
 
If you are going to use a Mag 7 with a 175w MH, make sure you run this system for awhile before adding any creatures. You might notice you will have heat issues. In my 11 gallon with a hang-on refugium and two 9-watt PCs, I only have a 50w heater. The tank stays constant at 77.3. I've found that a 20k bulb in a MH setup makes the little nano reef that much better. You will notice that you will still get plenty of growth; however, the colors will be greatly enhanced.

If you don't want a Mag pump, also look into the Gen-X submersibles. They don't offer as much power, but they stay cooler and live forever. They also have a couple different sizes. I like to circulate my system about 10-15 times an hour. You have to keep the nano system much more cleaner than a larger reef system.

If you want a external pump, you will probably need to divert some of the water back into the sump. Most external pumps will pump to much water for these little systems. However, a great affordable pump is a Little Giant or Quiet One. I've used both of these and they seem to do the job just fine on these smaller tanks. The big key is to divert some of the water back into the sump.
 
I am amazed how people can put a 400 watt MH over 20 gallon tank with no sump. This has got to be tough. How do you handle the temperatures? What are good corals for tanks this small? All I could think of was giving him Capricornus and my maroon Zoos. How do you keep your parimeters stable?
 
I've actually seen a 20 gallon with a 400w halide. However, he spent most of his time after work/school monitoring the heat fluctuation. There is also a little product called, I believe "Ice probe" these work very well for the smaller systems. IMO I believe that a 400w is just absolutly ridiculous and there is no reason to spend the money and deal with the heat issues. Sometimes in the summer he switches out the 400w light and puts on a 150w DE to help with the heat fluctuations.

The way I handle my temperature fluctuation is trying to keep the room that the tank is in as accurate as possible. In addition to not switching my routine on when the lights cycle on and off. I also try to keep my nano around 76 degrees, just in case the tank starts to heat up I will have plenty of room for it to get hotter.

Good corals for the tank depend on the lighting/water movement. If you have a 150w DE 20k or higher, usually you can put the same corals in as a larger tank. However, you will have to understand the corals needs much more. Since the tank is so small you need to place the corals in the appropriate places. Make sure you understand how aggressive each coral is. One coral stinging another coral could cause death and death in a small tank will sometimes cause it to crash.

How do I keep my parameters stable? Well, I don't use a skimmer. First a skimmer will skim out all helpful chemicals. I use a refugium. Also, I do a 10% water change weekly, so that I'm keep the trace elements, and all other essential elements in the water for the corals to feed on.

Good luck,

Bobby
 
Bobby - great to have you in charge of the nano-forum. I look forward to learning from you, as I've always found nano-reefs a little scarey, so I'll be picking your brain when I go to set up my nano species tank :)
 
I was pushing around the idea of setting up a nano reef since its less costly compared to what Im doing now. I have a feeling Im going to like setting up my bigger tank more. You gotta pay to play.
 
NaH2O said:
Bobby - great to have you in charge of the nano-forum. I look forward to learning from you, as I've always found nano-reefs a little scarey, so I'll be picking your brain when I go to set up my nano species tank :)

NaH2O. It's not as scary as you would think. It's a little more difficult to keep the chemistry in check, but not that bad. The only problem is is with growth. I put a Toadstool in my 10g 3 months ago and it's quickly outgrowing it's space. I will have to frag it real soon. Small ecosystems are neat.
 
Nano-reefs aren't anymore scarier then larger systems. It really helps if you stick to your routine schedule on maintenance. On the larger systems you can put them off a bit, but on these smaller systems you really need to stick to your routine maintenance.
 
plumber_bob said:
Nano-reefs aren't anymore scarier then larger systems. It really helps if you stick to your routine schedule on maintenance. On the larger systems you can put them off a bit, but on these smaller systems you really need to stick to your routine maintenance.

True, so true. You have to keep up, religiously, with water changes. Depending on what salt brand you use the water changes will keep your chemistry in check from week to week unless you have an SPS dominated nano. Then you have to...
 
For lighting with SPS corals I would recommend a day light PC and a 150 watt DE 20K halide for lighting. I wouldnt really suggest a skimmer , as said before it will invarably over skim your tank taking all of the good things from the water as well as the bad. A 10 gallon refugium would however be extremely benefical to stabilizing water parameters not to mention nutreint removal if Macro-Algae is in the refugium. Just an idea to ponder...
 
Ritsuko Nashida said:
For lighting with SPS corals I would recommend a day light PC and a 150 watt DE 20K halide for lighting. I wouldnt really suggest a skimmer , as said before it will invarably over skim your tank taking all of the good things from the water as well as the bad. A 10 gallon refugium would however be extremely benefical to stabilizing water parameters not to mention nutreint removal if Macro-Algae is in the refugium. Just an idea to ponder...

Yes. Even with a nano, you still need MH for SPS. I run a 70w 10k Ushio DE with 1x36w actinic over my 10g. As far as a skimmer goes I run a Prism w/ surface skimmer and I pull alot of skimate out, but parameters stay constant.
 
Yes I agree more so than not, thats why I suggested a 150 DE 20K with a Daylight PC. A small skimmer indeed is a nicety, if you can find a small one that you can cram in there without it being too much of an obstruction. If thats the case by all means use one. I would! I just dont have that option right now for all intents and purposes, and do fine with regular water changes, as many others do. With a little luck I can get a bigger place, have more room for my tanks, build a stand for my nano and add a refugium & skimmer(its currently setting on a counter top :( ).

Here in Japan house space is at a premium, @ 1600.00 plus a month rent in US dollars for what essentually would pass for a tiny one bedroom in the US. In which I have a 300 gallon & 75 gallon frag grow out tanks, a 135 SPS tank w/140 gallon refugium, a 240 gallon SPS tank with the same size refugium and a couple of other 55-65 gallon Softies tank. So I am in a hurt locker at the moment..... :shock:
 
Hey I have had a 10 gal for about a month and everything is just fine but was wondering how long does it take for Xenias to get adjusted to their tank?
 
i just saw this thread and wanted to add my 2 cents.
i do consider nanoreefs to be my specialty.
personally, i would never start a nano without a sump and a skimmer,EVER!
the decreased water volume makes it imperative to run a sump, as well as a skimmer. there is no buffering capacity to speak of in most nano's, so things chemically change very quickly. the skimmer is singularly the most VITAL piece of equipment that you can own for a nano!! unless of coarse you like brown coral, unwanted algae blooms, and poor water quality. the other factors are similar to when you own a larger tank, ie; high flow (20-30 times total gallonage in flow, 10 times through sump, 10-20 times from powerheads or closed loop), using ro water for all waterchanges and topoff, using phamaceutical or analytical reagent grade additives to avoid buildup of food grade impurities(warner marine and salifert are probably 2 of the best additive brands out there). im certainly not saying that you cant have a nano without these things, but, considering the amount of money and time we put into our tanks, i think that striving for the most long term stability only makes sense, and besides, do you want to enjoy your tank? or perpetually try to trouble shoot problems with water quality and livestock health?
spend the extra money and cry only once! :p
 

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