Need help ASAP before another Flood!!!

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BTW, the first chamber is the one to the left with the single pump in it which feeds my skimmer. Do you think I should just take the hole right on through the sea-swirl to the other side one time or is it not necessary?
 
I have a single 3/16 hole with 1" pipe, but no sea swirl works fine. Looks like if you want to lower the water level in the sump, you need to drill the baffle to the right of the stand brace.

Don
 
I have a single 3/16 hole with 1" pipe, but no sea swirl works fine. Looks like if you want to lower the water level in the sump, you need to drill the baffle to the right of the stand brace.

Don

Yeah, I've thought about increasing my sump size (mostly for a little extra "headroom" and water volume) but I was waiting to see if the extra space would have been needed for something else. I can't see me needing it for anything else right now, so it may be an option. 6 inches long x 14 inches wide x 13 inches where I usually keep the water level, should give me about 4.7 gals extra (if my formula is right...LxWxH/231) That would definatley do the trick! Thanks for the help Don as well as everyone else...
 
Krish, put a Y locline on it and point one of the outlets near the top... That is what I do...
 
Krish, put a Y locline on it and point one of the outlets near the top... That is what I do...

Sounds good, but nobody here in the Bahamas sells anything even remotely close to lockline...
 
Krish can you raise the ss up on the tank by setting it on something for now, or at least just point the output at the top of the tank for now and order some locline fittings.... What was that about the Bahammas???
 
Sorry Krish. I have mine drilled low and it drains back enough to fill a 20 gallon sump with my skimmer draining down too. I have about 6 gallons leeway that is between my skimmer sucking air from evap. and over fill that the tank will flood on powerloss. Of course that is marked max and min on my sump and perfect is right in the middle. I try to keep it between max and perfect. The hole needs to be at least 3/16th I usually go 1/4" just to be safe for algae growth and such. One thing to think about with a sump in the future design process is estimate maximum draw down and triple it for sump volume at least. Like if you have a 72" tank x 24" wide and you expect max draw down to be 2" 72x24x2= 3456/231=14.96x3=44.8 gallon sump at least. The reason I bring that up is it a tank I am doing now and it will have 60 gallons of sump and fuge inline. Your tank maybe is 48x20x3=2880/231=12.47gallons x 3= 37 gallon sump and fuge to operate properly.
Why did I decide this. My sump is too small its a 20 and needs to be a 29 or 30 gallon at least. I have a 125 I took over (did not build or design) that has a 12 gallon sump. Its stupid. I wont have this problem again.
If anybody has a better formula I wanna hear it. I am always open to good ideas.
 
Krish can you raise the ss up on the tank by setting it on something for now, or at least just point the output at the top of the tank for now and order some locline fittings.... What was that about the Bahammas???

Yeah I could do that. I wouldn't be able to put on my canopy, but no biggie. If drilling that hole through doesn't work then maybe I'll try that before adding more volume to my sump. About the Bahamas...I said it SUCKS!(LOL) Trying to get me fired up again on something new huh(LOL)
 
Krish are ya sure there is none around, machine shops use the stuff to direct flow of coolant on parts they are machining.. just a thought...
 
Thanks for the info Stevo! I had my sump built to that size because of all of the junk I had under there in the past. Since I just had this sump built not too long ago, I figured I'd just play with it for a while.

I'm going to seal up all of my little holes in the sea-swirl attachment and punch in the right size hole in the right place. If it works, then I'll just re-order the attachment so I would have a nice new clean one. If it doesn't, I'll try Ken's remedy and if that doesn't work, there's always ebay(LOL). We'll see what tomorrow brings...
 
you pay shipping and I will send a perfect chuck with a flare nozzle and the threaded end or two if you want. I got 4 of them from my old spraybar return.
 
Krish are ya sure there is none around, machine shops use the stuff to direct flow of coolant on parts they are machining.. just a thought...

Not sure, but I can check into it. I need to go back and see if I can find a picture of it so I can print it and take it with me for reference. If I tell these retards around here I need a lockline "Y" I may fry their brains(LOL)
 
by chuck I mean chunk and by chunk I mean locline. Lol

May not be a bad idea...I'll see what I come up with tomorrow with all of the info and i'll let you know. Thanks for the offer Steve...
 
RF! You Da Man!!!(LOL)

I epoxyed all of the holes over night to start fresh this morning. Like you guys suggested, I punched a single 3/16 hole, exactly where Chuck said I should in the pic, straight through and even out the other side. So if you were to hold the sea-swirl in your hand, and look throught the hole, you could see right out the other side. I did a test run with it and it breaks the siphon in exactly 3 seconds. My skimmer is up and running with it and everything is back to how it was before adding the sea-swirl in terms of water height i the sump and operation.

Thank you very much everyone for all of your help in such a quick time. You guys saved me a bunch of stress and headache. All I have to do now if find a new return pump, but other than that, everything is operating perfectly. Thanks again everyone...
 

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