Need some lamp recommendations...250W mogul base

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mcoomer

Who's your daddy?!?
Joined
Nov 6, 2009
Messages
728
Location
Sammamish, WA
I'm picking up a dual Blue Wave 7 ballast and I'm a little torn on some bulb choices. I'm planning on Radiums with the new ballast but I'm not sure what to put in my old PFO magnetic ballast (M58). I know that I want to put in a 14 or 15K bulb but I'm not sure which look better. I've been thinking about Ushios but I've heard a lot of good things about Phoenix lately. Then there are the 15K Elos bulbs and I don't know a thing about them.

So, I need some recommendation for 2 mogul base bulbs to run on an M58 ballast with 2 Radiums running on an M80 ballast. Lemme hear what you think.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Yeah, I like Sanjay's guide but it's not very up to date and the ballast tab gives me a an XML error. Besides that, charts are good but I like to hear what people think about the bulbs they're using. Let me know how they make your corals look and what you like and don't like about them.
 
I have the Bluewave 7 and I went from running xm10k's to Phoenix 14k SE's. I definately like the look of the Phoenix 14K's, even though there is a significant PAR difference.

I recently had to send my ballast back to Sunlight Supply for warranty work and borrowed a friends Bluewave dual 400 watt HQI ballast, (no idea which Bluewave it is), and borrowed a pair of 400 Watt Radiums to run while my ballast was being replaced.

I think the Radiums were too blue, and the XM 10K's were too yellow. IMO the Phoenix is a perfect middle ground, as it appears a tad more blue than my XM's with actinic supplementation, but is not as blue as the Radiums. Added bonus is that Phoenix bulbs are an HQI bulbs, (Even the SE's) and are only slightly more expensive than the XM's, (which are not rated for HQI ballasts...may void warranty if bulbs go bad and you let slip you're running them on an HQI ballast), and last twice as long as the Radiums (which need to be replaced at 6 months).

Nick
 
I just viewed NC2WA’s tank last weekend and there is no yellow in those bulbs. They are crisp white with just a hint of blue.
 
hmmmm...I have XM 10K 250w and they are crisp white for me..maybe a bad bulb??

No, not a bad bulb. I used them for years. Liked them, but really preferred the look with actinic supplementation as opposed to without.

I really should have phrased it "The XM 10K's were too yellow for my liking."

It is a whitish bulb, but there is a visible difference with the actinic VHO's on vs when they're off.

For me, the Phoenix 14K's look perfect.

Just my opinion, YMMV...

Nick
 
You know what?
They have duel output bulbs now. They electronically switch each time the bulb is turned on and off. You can get them in different configurations.
10k 10k
10k 15k
10k 20k
15k 20k
and so on.
You could set up your timer to switch during the day. How cool is that. You can have 20K in the morning and 10k in the after noon and 20k again in the evening from the same bulb.
 
I think the twin arcs are an interesting bulb and will be something to look into in the future, but they dont work for his needs at the moment as they need a pulse start ballast, (read comments after article...author spoke to ALS about what ballast is needed and was told pulse start), and he has an HQI ballast.

From what I gather, the bulbs will alternate which arc lights up, but there is still the cooling period to think about. The ballast prevents bulbs from lighting back up immediately in order to give bulbs a chance to cool down. When switching from one arc to the other, it still does this. The article states "Although a typical lamp would take 15 or more minutes to cool down and fire again, the off-duty arc tube only warms up a little bit by comparison and the Twinarc is ready to fire up again in a couple minutes."

However, in my experiance, its the ballast that decides when to fire up again, not the bulb. I've tested this buy firing up both HQI and Electronic ballasts with one reflector and bulb. Shut it down after a few minutes, and then plugged in a different reflector and bulb that was cold and had not been running. It still took 15 minutes before the new "cold" bulb and reflector would light. Just to be fair, the ballasts I was doing this with were my Bluewave & which was manufactured in 2006, and a pair of Bluewave 4's (IceCap's in a blue box) which I bought back in 2004. So its entirely possible that the newer ballasts will sense the temp of the bulb and that will determine the time delay on firing...however, I kinda doubt that since it would increase the cost of the ballast and I havent seen them increase all that much in the last couple of years.

Secondly, you either need one of their specially made reflectors or you need to fiddle with a full size Lumen Arc reflector to situate the bulb properly to get the full benefit of the twin arc bulb.

Having said all of that, I really like the concept of the two bulbs in one idea and really, really like the idea of double the bulb for the price of one. When you think about it, if you decide to run a bulb normally, (IE one "On" time, and one "Off" time per day), then you are doubling your bulb life. That in and of itself is worth the price of buying new reflectors to accomodate the longer bulbs...you'd pretty much save the cost of the reflectors after the first year when you didnt need to replace your bulbs. By the second time you replaced your bulbs, (4 years later) you'd be ahead of the game...

I'm going to wait a bit and see how these shake out, but I can see some real promise with the Twin Arc's...

Nick
 
It was just a thought. I didn’t know about the pulse start thing was something different. I guess I was thinking about a fixture like mine where there are multiple bulbs. You could switch one at a time and not really have all the lights off for 10 minutes to switch the color. I suppose if you only have the one pendent that would probably not work out well. I think the bulbs have been out for almost 2 years now. That article was written last year.
 

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