YamahaF934
Well-known member
Any input on this sump layout. It will be below a 140 gallon display.
New 40 Breeder Sump Layout
- Thread starter YamahaF934
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justforfun
Humu Humu Nuku Nuku
what is your reason for ball valves on the drain....you dont want to restrict the drain... they are not needed unless you are gonna try and do a siphon drain then you would be better off using gate vales for fine tuning
Peppie
Well-known member
The mag18 will put out 1300gph that is a lot of turn over thru your return. Have you thought about installing a T to divert some of that flow back into your sump?
YamahaF934
Well-known member
The balls valves are so I can turn the flow off in order to change/clean/adjust.
I am going to use Durso Overflows with 1 1/4 inch piping.
I did not think about diverting flow. Which is why I posted my sump, so I could get advice. I could just divert water from the return to the fuge.
I am going to use Durso Overflows with 1 1/4 inch piping.
I did not think about diverting flow. Which is why I posted my sump, so I could get advice. I could just divert water from the return to the fuge.
justforfun
Humu Humu Nuku Nuku
turning the flow off on pressure is fine....but there is no need for it on return- shut your pump off water stops.....the 1st time you forget to turn valves back on * atfer your cleaning*have fun with the waterfall tank lolololol .....if the flow trough sump is quicker then your skimmer pump that water will not have long enough to get a proper skim.... if you valve your pressure after output on pump you can just dial it down and it will save you electricty .....i would suggest a gate valve on your pressure for fine tuning.....
I also would not put any valves, on your drain lines. Turning your return pump off will stop all of your flow. Valves on the drains are just accidents waiting to happen.
I'm running a Mag18 as a return pump, under my 200DD. I didn't divert any water back to the sump, but that is a very valid option. In my situation, I didn't feel it was needed.
I would make a couple changes though...
Your return pump area should be the smallest area of the sump, only large enough for the return pump. I would recomment swapping your fuge and return pump chambers, putting your fuge in the middle. Make your skimmer area only large enough to hold the skimmer and allow the skimmer to be completely removed, for maintenance. This will give you the largest fuge area possible. Do you really feel you need the media tower/bubble trap area? If you did away with that, that's more room you could dedicate to the fuge.
Have your display drain into the skimmer area, fuge in the center, small return chamber on the other end. I'm not sure if you've ever looked at my sump, when you've been over. It's very basic, but works very well. It's about the same dimensions as a 40 breeder.
I'm running a Mag18 as a return pump, under my 200DD. I didn't divert any water back to the sump, but that is a very valid option. In my situation, I didn't feel it was needed.
I would make a couple changes though...
Your return pump area should be the smallest area of the sump, only large enough for the return pump. I would recomment swapping your fuge and return pump chambers, putting your fuge in the middle. Make your skimmer area only large enough to hold the skimmer and allow the skimmer to be completely removed, for maintenance. This will give you the largest fuge area possible. Do you really feel you need the media tower/bubble trap area? If you did away with that, that's more room you could dedicate to the fuge.
Have your display drain into the skimmer area, fuge in the center, small return chamber on the other end. I'm not sure if you've ever looked at my sump, when you've been over. It's very basic, but works very well. It's about the same dimensions as a 40 breeder.
YamahaF934
Well-known member
Okay I made some changes.
What pump would you recommend I use for a return pump? I would rather use a smaller pump which uses less wattage.
I added the UV sterilizer onto the return line to reduce some return GPH.
Wouldn't I want a larger return area, that way I have more room for evaporation?
I used this layout after researching Melvesreefs.com
What pump would you recommend I use for a return pump? I would rather use a smaller pump which uses less wattage.
I added the UV sterilizer onto the return line to reduce some return GPH.
Wouldn't I want a larger return area, that way I have more room for evaporation?
I used this layout after researching Melvesreefs.com
justforfun
Humu Humu Nuku Nuku
use a auto top off you will be very glad you did....then you will have alot more room & not have to worry about evap..... go to autotopoff.com its about 40$ best 40 i have ever spent on my tank ......no lie it saves your but when your gone for a couple days....never have any issues with salinty changin
YamahaF934
Well-known member
I have changed the plans to a Herbie style overflow. I will use the 1 inch bulkhead as the siphon and the 3/4 inch as the emergency.
I was told to use 1.5" inch return piping when using a Mag 18. Is this a true story or should I stick with a 1 inch return?
Should I have two returns into the tank or will one with a sea-swirl be enough spread.
I was told to use 1.5" inch return piping when using a Mag 18. Is this a true story or should I stick with a 1 inch return?
Should I have two returns into the tank or will one with a sea-swirl be enough spread.
You actually want a small return area, so you DON'T get a lot of evaporation, before you have to top off, due to running the return area low. This keeps your salinity from fluctuating as much. If you allow for MORE evaporation, your salinity will fluctuate more.
Since this is for a 140, you'd be fine with a Mag 9.5 or Mag 12 return. I would probably up your return pipe size to 1", at least until the split. If it were me, I'd have 1" returns all the way to the top of the return lines, reducing to 3/4" as near to the end as possible, to cut down on friction caused by the pipe. 1" line will create MUCH LESS friction than 3/4".
If you stick with the Mag18, use 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 return line and reduce just before the end.
Oh I see the change you've made now. Yes, use the larger return line, especially since you're only using one return now. Look at the maximum GPH of the 3/4" Seaswirl and decide which return pump to use, based on that, allowing for head loss. My return is a Mag18, split between 2X 3/4" SeaSwirls. A Mag18 will put out much more flow than a single 3/4" SeaSwirl can handle, I think.
I do see where you're putting valves in, to divert water to the fuge and to control the Herbie. That will allow you to still use the Mag18 though I'd not throttle the pump down much. As you choke down your return, with the gate valve, make sure you're opening the ball valve, to allow the extra flow to go to the fuge.
Since this is for a 140, you'd be fine with a Mag 9.5 or Mag 12 return. I would probably up your return pipe size to 1", at least until the split. If it were me, I'd have 1" returns all the way to the top of the return lines, reducing to 3/4" as near to the end as possible, to cut down on friction caused by the pipe. 1" line will create MUCH LESS friction than 3/4".
If you stick with the Mag18, use 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 return line and reduce just before the end.
Oh I see the change you've made now. Yes, use the larger return line, especially since you're only using one return now. Look at the maximum GPH of the 3/4" Seaswirl and decide which return pump to use, based on that, allowing for head loss. My return is a Mag18, split between 2X 3/4" SeaSwirls. A Mag18 will put out much more flow than a single 3/4" SeaSwirl can handle, I think.
I do see where you're putting valves in, to divert water to the fuge and to control the Herbie. That will allow you to still use the Mag18 though I'd not throttle the pump down much. As you choke down your return, with the gate valve, make sure you're opening the ball valve, to allow the extra flow to go to the fuge.
Scooterman
Well-known member
Why gate valves and the 1" drains, go as big as you can, 1" is tight. I would use Eheim over mags anytime, much better pumps.
jrgilles
Well-known member
I have an eheim 1262 and love it. Mine is something like 900 gph, but closer to 550-600 with head pressure (which maybe is still a bit more than I need.)
Anyway, they cost a bit more, but are very quiet and efficient, so you will save on the power bill and it won't get your tank as hot in the summer.
Anyway, they cost a bit more, but are very quiet and efficient, so you will save on the power bill and it won't get your tank as hot in the summer.
E
eww
Guest
+1 to this
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