new aquarium, brown algae, seemingly good chemistry

[tkmak]

Not entirely new to reefkeeping, just the first reef aquarium I've kept in 15 years. Set up a new aquarium and just yesterday, got an outbreak of brown algae. Can somebody give me some insight here?

OK, I tested my water last night. Near unreadable Nitrate, .05 Phosphate (just at the bottom of the Scale of my Instant Ocean Reefmaster test kit), no Nitrate, no Ammon, PH is right on the money at 7.8. Didn't test Ca or Alk. Salinity at 1.020. NO RO?DI used, but water comes through a watersoftener to mix salt water.

Whats off? my temp is a bit high right now at 84.5 (just got a chiller today), I have a 30" deep aquarium with a 175 10k mtl halide, two compact 24w actinics. ~ 100lbs live rock between aquarium and refug, an handfull of Cheato, two Coralife 9" power compacts (2 daylight 2 actinic tubes) for my refugium), Euroreef skimmer. About to add a Ca Reator and 1/3 hp chiller. Heater disconnected cause its running at 84.5 on its own in a 70degree room. Rock was bought off a guy who had it in an established aquarium for 2 years, I had it in the aquarium for 2 mo before I added three v. small fish.

NOW I GET THE BROWN ALGAE!

Suggestions? Recommendations?

 

[saltybell]

How long has your tank been setup? What size tank? Sounds like you are on the right track as far as your equipment is concerned. The brown algae is diatoms, these are part of the cycling process. They are ugly but harmless, give it about 2 weeks and they will go away on their own. Try not to add any new livestock or rocks. Diatoms can happen anytime you setup, move or add live rock or fish in large quantities to a tank. I recently got back into reef keeping myself, bought a mature system that had been running a long time. I am just getting over the same thing due to the move. I am sure others will chime in with more details, but don’t worry just yet and take it slow.

 

[ReefDiversity]

"OK, I tested my water last night. Near unreadable Nitrate, .05 Phosphate (just at the bottom of the Scale of my Instant Ocean Reefmaster test kit), no Nitrate, no Ammon, PH is right on the money at 7.8. Didn't test Ca or Alk. Salinity at 1.020. NO RO?DI used, but water comes through a watersoftener to mix salt water."


Wow - your parameters are way off! pH is way to low as it should be around 8.0 - 8.4 or very close. Your salinity is VERY low it should be no lower than 1.023 and no higher than 1.026 or so. I keep mine right at 1.025 with my pH at 8.2 and at night it might dip down to 8.0. Also if you are getting a reading on a regular phosphate test kit that is high and is most likely because you aren't using a RO/DI unit. With a new tank all these reading should be right on without any phosphate at this point with a regular test kit.

BTW - throw that heater out !!!

Hope this helps

 

[Scooterman]

"OK, I tested my water last night. Near unreadable Nitrate, .05 Phosphate (just at the bottom of the Scale of my Instant Ocean Reefmaster test kit), no Nitrate, no Ammon, PH is right on the money at 7.8. Didn't test Ca or Alk. Salinity at 1.020. NO RO?DI used, but water comes through a watersoftener to mix salt water."


Wow - your parameters are way off! pH is way to low as it should be around 8.0 - 8.4 or very close. Your salinity is VERY low it should be no lower than 1.023 and no higher than 1.026 or so. I keep mine right at 1.025 with my pH at 8.2 and at night it might dip down to 8.0. Also if you are getting a reading on a regular phosphate test kit that is high and is most likely because you aren't using a RO/DI unit. With a new tank all these reading should be right on without any phosphate at this point with a regular test kit.

BTW - throw that heater out !!!

Hope this helps

Although he reads a 7.8 PH depending on the time of day It could be higher even. I wouldn't swing Salinity either, & average 35ppt is usually slightly higher than 1.026, tank temp. is high & my most concern is the softened water, might be time for sure to invest in that ro/di unit. Also testing at that Temp. can through off your salinity depending on what your using to read it.
Sounds like the algae bloom is normal in a new set-up or moved tank. Also on a tank that deep, If your wanting certain high light demanding corals, you might have issues in the deeper parts of your tank.

 

[tkmak]

Tank has been setup for about a week in its current configuration as described. Rock has been in a plastic tub in the garage with a heater, powerhead, protein skimmer, and light for about 2 months since it wast tansferred from the guy who i bought it off of. Figured that since the rock was a min 2 years mature, it was safe to add about 3 inches of fish (three 1" fishes) about a week after I got the whole tank, refugium, filtration system runnin with the mature rock.

I'll watch it for the next couple of weeks, maybe move to RO/DI for the next water change.

I have never kept a tank at 1.026 salinity - have read conflicting opinions on salinity - have always maintained tanks near the lower end, but usually get a bit worried about 1.023.

Hopefully, the brown stuff will go with time as you state.

Thanks!

 

[ReefDiversity]

Definity agree, I've really not heard anyone using water from a softener. Not sure how the corals or fish would react - I would think not good, but I don't have first hand knowledge.

 

[saltybell]

Good water is a must it will make a world of difference in your battle with algae. My guess is you are just going through the cycling process. You can drive yourself crazy trying to adjust this and add that, putting in chemicals doing more harm than good. Your system is still working out the bugs so go slow and be patient. Continue to monitor with your test kits. Adding all that rock even though in tub for 2 months probably started the diatoms. Get yourself some snails and they will have a hay day on the algae. I keep my salinity at 1.025 just for reference. What type of fish do you have?

 

[Scooterman]

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20893

Instead of going into deatils, I'll post some reading Info!

35PPT would be a better standard to go by.

 

[MikeS]

Agreed about the softener...it'll remove a lot of minerals like silica and calcium, but does very little for things like phosphate and nitrate. I'd go for an RO/DI also.

The phosphate is likely the main culprit behind the bloom you are seeing, even slight levels will tend to do this.

I have never kept a tank at 1.026 salinity - have read conflicting opinions on salinity - have always maintained tanks near the lower end, but usually get a bit worried about 1.023.

I kept my FO tanks at 1.023+/-, but I keep my reef at 1.026 (temp corrected) or 35ppt salinity, as this is the SG of natural sea water. You'll find it helps you maintain proper levels of Ca, carbonate alk, and Mg more easily, and my corals have always seemed to look and thrive better at this salinity.

MikeS

 

[tkmak]

Thanks for the input. Looking into the RO/DI unit now. I'll take the greater salinity issue into consideration and I agree - gotta make slow changes, not drastic ones.

Oh, I made a typo, my pH was 8.2, sorry and the phosphate was less than .2. Sorry "ReefDiversity" for the typo there.

The chiller was added this evening and is set at 80, got a great deal on a Current 1/3 hp at $580 with dual stage controller.

Anyhow. I appreciate all of you chiming in. the RO/DI seems to be a common recommendation from all. We have one in the house, but only has a 10g tank attached to it and is plumbed through the counter in the kitchen. Are the RO/DI units for aquaria any different? How do they work? Do they have a larger resevoir tank or do they just continually empty into some vat?

Somebody asked what type of fish added thus far? Sand sifter goby (about 1"), ocellaris clown (tankraised 1/2"), leopard wrasse (1.5").

 

[ReefDiversity]

Understand tkmak. It can be hard to keep the pH up in your reef tank. I just added my calcium reactor on my system and I know I'll be fighting this. I'll need to add a Kalk drip before long.

Yes, I also think your corals and fish will be much happier in the higher salinity (Natural sea levels) but like you said this must be adjusted VERY slowly. Not that you have been keeping them that low but you might have taken care of any ICK (Hypo treatment) .

Good luck with your tank.

 

[Scooterman]

If I remember correctly these water softeners use a salt to do the most of the soften, I don't think it is of the same type we use & may be helping with some of your issues, I think like you said, slowly increase your salinity to around 1.026sg or 35ppt, switch to RO/DI water & knock down your temp. slightly. Also with your ca reactor PH needs to be monitored closer so that is also good advise.
I use to keep fish at a 1.021sg with no harm, it seems to be safer that way in keeping the fish from sickness or ICK but that was a long time ago, that was the thought back then.

 

[Scooterman]

Heck, here is a list we all should keep in mind of!

Check it out!

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26533

 

[warforged]

Heck, here is a list we all should keep in mind of!

Check it out!

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26533

Thanks scooter by the way.... That linked section has the best info ...

Its amazing how something as simple as adding trace elements and additives can turn a tank around.

I had an ugly algae bloom recently ( last water change i so forgot to add my elements and buffer) ...i did recently ...i put in the additives that put in mag, cal, amino acids, etc etc ...... and my PH Buffer...

in 24 hours the tank did a 180 on me in the conditions...the brown algae disappeared..literally... the corals look perky ( the softer types) the SPS seems the same =). The anemones even responded by blooming out more....way more...

anyway thanks for that link....i am going to have to add that to my favorites for future reference.

 

[tkmak]

Again, thanks all for the input. I tackled this problem in a few ways.

-as already stated, added a 1/3 hp chiller - keeps the temp at 80
-have allowed evaporation to slowly incr. salinity, 1.023 as of this a.m.
-added some trace elements (Kent Marine Coral-Vite) to add some Strontium, Mg.
-been more closely watching feeding to minimize overfeeding.

One or all of the above worked. The brown algal bloom is pretty much all gone. The above, all recommended by all of you, worked - or it was just New Tank Syndrome (despite being 3 yr old rock) as somebody else opined.

I did order a RO/DI unit - comes this week. Will use it religously.

I have not added any inverts/corals other than the hitchhikers that came w/ the rock. Waiting to have all my chemical levels even out and remain stable - but I think that day of adding my first invert is coming - soon!

Thanks again for all the input - this place and all of you above, ROCK!

 

[OldFishMan]

Hello;

I would bet your diatoms were new tank syndrome.

Water softeners exchange salts of some kind for other minerals to soften the water and these additional salts may collect in your RO unit.

Mature live rock by itself will not be enough to take a tank to maturity. Bacteria must be given time to multiply to stabilize the system.

A fish only tank or FOWLR can be kept at 1.020 without any problems I know of. However, because the salt mixes are formulated for a 1.026 or 35ppt salinity your major and minor elements will be low.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"If this don't work, I can always change the water!"

"OFM"


Enjoy!

OFM

 

[Boomer]

However, because the salt mixes are formulated for a 1.026 or 35ppt salinity your major and minor elements will be low.

No they wont' they will be the same or about the same as they would be in real seawater at that same salintiy, as they are suppose to be. For example, the Ca++ level at 35 ppt is ~ 410 ppm and at 33 ppm will be 385 ppm.

And that salt mixes are by far not formulated to those levels you posted at all.

 

[OldFishMan]

Boomer;

Sorry. I was just letting him know that the levels will be low compared to saltwater at 1.026. Just in case he may think they are lower than recommended and tries to raise them with additives, without raising salinity with his salt mix.

"Easy to read it wrong when I don't make it clear I guess."

When I read information on my salt mixes --- they all give the values of major elements when mixed to a 35ppt or 1.026 level. Even when I read online the tests refer to 35ppt for comparison.

You are correct --- RATIO is the same at any salinity.

OFM