Loppnessmonsta
Active member
punch a whole in the wall and put a 50 gallon in the back
New Tank Setup Questions
- Thread starter brandymichele
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OldFishMan said:
Yeah, you're wrong, though this is the first I've ever seen you admit that as a possibility. These are the CF bulbs that are meant to screw into a standard mogul socket.
I'm sure your bulbs are, indeed, 10 watts each. Some of the information you'll get, on here from certain, simply needs to be ignored...lol. These will work just fine, until you want to grow more corals, clams or anemones. These lights will be sufficient for soft corals and some LPS corals. SPS, clams and anemones will need more intense lighting.
Ice water is actually used to calibrate thermometers, used in food preparation. When calibrating, in ice water, they should read 32 degrees and if not, they're to be set to read 32 degrees. However, 50 is probably the lowest your thermometers are capable of measuring, so they went to their lowest point. Unfortunately, that doesn't tell you if either of them are accurate. If you have a food thermometer, you could calibrate it, and then use it to measure your temperature, comparing it to both of your tank thermometers.
This time of year, in our area, it is a bit difficult to keep out tanks cool, unless our homes are air conditioned, or we run a chiller.
Loppnessmonsta said:
I think this thread would be much better served, when offering legitimate advice.
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OldFishMan
Well-known member
Well, I knew they were CF bulbs --- I think they will state an equivalent light output in lumens or whatever while only using 10-watts.
Look into an electronic thermometer like these ;
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3744+12089&pcatid=12089
Accurate enough --- they work for a year or two and then just change the battery --- inexpensive -- it is what I use.
I would start your temp @80-F and adjust from there depending on species.
Enjoy
OFM
Look into an electronic thermometer like these ;
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3744+12089&pcatid=12089
Accurate enough --- they work for a year or two and then just change the battery --- inexpensive -- it is what I use.
I would start your temp @80-F and adjust from there depending on species.
Enjoy
OFM
brandymichele
Member
OldFishManThanks I think I will pickup a digital thermometer like this one. It will make reading it much easier 
returnofsidGlad to know these lights will get me by for now Thanks for the clairification
I had a few more questions, for this wealth of knowledge here, lol
Purigen? I was at a LFS and it was recommended I run a bag of this in my HOB?
It also was recommended to add zoas and some softies before even a fish? I am ok with this if this is right but I am just wondering if this is correct info?
Also I have seen that some HOB's have been turned into miny refugiums? Can someone please tell me if this size tank needs one, would benefit from one, ect and how to turn mine into one if need be thanks!
returnofsidGlad to know these lights will get me by for now
Thanks for the clairificationI had a few more questions, for this wealth of knowledge here, lol
Purigen? I was at a LFS and it was recommended I run a bag of this in my HOB?
It also was recommended to add zoas and some softies before even a fish? I am ok with this if this is right but I am just wondering if this is correct info?
Also I have seen that some HOB's have been turned into miny refugiums? Can someone please tell me if this size tank needs one, would benefit from one, ect and how to turn mine into one if need be thanks!
OldFishMan
Well-known member
brandymichele
Sorry, had to look up HOB --- lol
Purigen -- http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4190
Excellent product --- works well. IMHO let the tank cycle normally, let Ammonia and Nitrite spike --- when Nitrate is present by tests --- add the Purigen. I have seen people do all they can to lower Ammonia and Nitrite while cycling and the tanks generally take much longer to cycle.
After your tank cycles it is your choice of what to add. I would not convert the HOB filter for 6-months. Let the tank become well populated with bacteria --- many forms, takes awhile, I have seen fresh tanks show small spikes of Ammonia and Nitrate, after feeding for months without a good external filter.
After this time remove the filter material and do whatever you want to the HOB. You can test this at 3-months or so and see how the tank is developing. It may be fine.
I have three good filters on my FOWLR tank -- Nitrate is 10-ppm --- I can lower that with additions of vinegar to my Kalkwasser. Keep the filter as long as you need it --- just keep it all clean.
I like extra water of any kind and the hang on back filter may be a great place to place coral frags. Your call !
Look at the Nano tanks. These people do an excellent job with very little space that rivals tanks 100-times there size. I am very impressed by them.
Good Luck
OFM
Sorry, had to look up HOB --- lol
Purigen -- http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4190
Excellent product --- works well. IMHO let the tank cycle normally, let Ammonia and Nitrite spike --- when Nitrate is present by tests --- add the Purigen. I have seen people do all they can to lower Ammonia and Nitrite while cycling and the tanks generally take much longer to cycle.
After your tank cycles it is your choice of what to add. I would not convert the HOB filter for 6-months. Let the tank become well populated with bacteria --- many forms, takes awhile, I have seen fresh tanks show small spikes of Ammonia and Nitrate, after feeding for months without a good external filter.
After this time remove the filter material and do whatever you want to the HOB. You can test this at 3-months or so and see how the tank is developing. It may be fine.
I have three good filters on my FOWLR tank -- Nitrate is 10-ppm --- I can lower that with additions of vinegar to my Kalkwasser. Keep the filter as long as you need it --- just keep it all clean.
I like extra water of any kind and the hang on back filter may be a great place to place coral frags. Your call !
Look at the Nano tanks. These people do an excellent job with very little space that rivals tanks 100-times there size. I am very impressed by them.
Good Luck
OFM
brandymichele
Member
Ok I picked up some purigen and will add it when time is right then.
Also was wondering what the best 1st thing for me to add to my tank is? It's been up and cycling now about a week, water parameters are close to 0. I am adding some more LR today and will wait a few more days before I add anything. Just wanted to know about the best 1st thing to add? A clown? Some Zoas? A few hermits? Shrimp? Snails? These are what I want to have in my tank eventually plus an anemone but I know I need to wait awhile on that. Thanks
Also was wondering what the best 1st thing for me to add to my tank is? It's been up and cycling now about a week, water parameters are close to 0. I am adding some more LR today and will wait a few more days before I add anything. Just wanted to know about the best 1st thing to add? A clown? Some Zoas? A few hermits? Shrimp? Snails? These are what I want to have in my tank eventually plus an anemone but I know I need to wait awhile on that. Thanks
brandymichele
Member
To Spokane Reefers...
Are most people in town using a heater in there tank? only in the winter?needing a chiller? I dont have a heater in mine, and the tank consistently stays at 78-79 degrees without light and 79-80 degrees with light on. Is the 2 degree possible flex too much? Thanks again
Are most people in town using a heater in there tank? only in the winter?needing a chiller? I dont have a heater in mine, and the tank consistently stays at 78-79 degrees without light and 79-80 degrees with light on. Is the 2 degree possible flex too much? Thanks again
Once your cycle is complete, and not before, add snails. A couple Nassarius, to stir the sand bed, a few Ceriths and Strombus, will help with glass and live rock cleaning.
I'd wait a few weeks, after cycle, before adding any shrimp. As for a Clown, add one after your cycle, if you want, but you may want to wait until after the inevitable diatom algae bloom, that's part of just about every new tank.
As for a heater, we use an AC unit, so need the heater to keep the tank temperature from falling too low. Believe it or not, heaters usually get more use in the summer, than in the winter, for this very reason. In the winter, we heat our homes, which helps heat the tank. In fact, up until a couple winters ago, I never used heaters in the winter, here in Spokane. Now I have heaters in all my tanks, but they still kick on more during the summer months, than the winter months, from trying to keep the home cool.
Your current temperatures, with the 2 degree variation, are just fine.
I'd wait a few weeks, after cycle, before adding any shrimp. As for a Clown, add one after your cycle, if you want, but you may want to wait until after the inevitable diatom algae bloom, that's part of just about every new tank.
As for a heater, we use an AC unit, so need the heater to keep the tank temperature from falling too low. Believe it or not, heaters usually get more use in the summer, than in the winter, for this very reason. In the winter, we heat our homes, which helps heat the tank. In fact, up until a couple winters ago, I never used heaters in the winter, here in Spokane. Now I have heaters in all my tanks, but they still kick on more during the summer months, than the winter months, from trying to keep the home cool.
Your current temperatures, with the 2 degree variation, are just fine.
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brandymichele
Member
One more thing, What is the appropiate light schedule for a tank? I have saw everyone has different schedules, and has many lights they are circulating through there schedule. Since I only have the 50/50 PC's I wasnt sure how I should run mine. I have because of heat only been turning on light at night and off during day, but wasnt sure how long can the light be off?
What is the appropiate light schedule for a tank? I have saw everyone has different schedules, and has many lights they are circulating through there schedule. Since I only have the 50/50 PC's I wasnt sure how I should run mine. I have because of heat only been turning on light at night and off during day, but wasnt sure how long can the light be off?For now, while cycling your tank, lighting isn't important. Some people think it's best to have a normal light cycle, during cycle, as it might effect algae. The thought is that if you do not use lights, during cycle, and after cycle, suddenly have an 8-10 hour light cycle, it can cause more of an algae problem. I don't know how much stock I put into this idea though...lol.
Once you have life in your tank, you'll want to view that life. So, at that time, you'll set up your lighting, according to your schedule. Right now, lighting at night, does help control temperatures!
With PC lighting, if you want to grow soft corals and LPS corals, you'll probably need around 10 hours of light, each day.
Once you have life in your tank, you'll want to view that life. So, at that time, you'll set up your lighting, according to your schedule. Right now, lighting at night, does help control temperatures!
With PC lighting, if you want to grow soft corals and LPS corals, you'll probably need around 10 hours of light, each day.
Kind of a PS on this one - I have heaters in my tanks as a security measure, but they only kick on when the temp actually drops low enough for them to (I set them to 72, normal operating temp is 76-78 during the days) - They turn on maybe once a month or so, or when my furnace dies in 10 degree weather
eddiecorrea
Reef Addict
Id get rid of the hexagon tank and go buy a real tank for your first sw experience. That will make your life sooo much easier.
brandymichele
Member
I appreciate your concern about the hex tank, however it's what I have room for right now, and I wanted something small for my bedroom. I have a 55 and a 125 both waiting to be setup however I am moving soon and waiting to set those up.
brandymichele
Member
It's been another week of just cycling my tank I havent had time this past week to add any life to it but hopefully this week Will post pics when I do. I was wondering however, how long does this intial algae bloom last? I went to bed and woke up and it seems over night everything was starting to grow the reddish brown algae... What is good at cleaning this? Any kind of snails in particular? Thanks!
Will post pics when I do. I was wondering however, how long does this intial algae bloom last? I went to bed and woke up and it seems over night everything was starting to grow the reddish brown algae... What is good at cleaning this? Any kind of snails in particular? Thanks!sivart33
Well-known member
its normal to get the brown algea, it goes away once you start using RO water. it seemed in my tank that the brown algea went away ( not fully but mostly) over night.
brandymichele
Member
Ok looking for clarification again for a newbie, I started this tank out with RO water and have done no water changes only top offs with new RO water and salt. My question is this: Earlier posts said try not to change water for first 30-45 days, and the last post on this thread says help getting rid of the algae is using RO water? lol. So should I start doing my water changes now? obviously using the RO water. Tank has been cycling about 2 weeks now give or take a day... Thanks!
Also when doing top offs how important is it to use the RO water if I dont have an RO at my house? I am transporting the water and I use less than half a gallon every week maybe?
I started this tank out with RO water and have done no water changes only top offs with new RO water and salt. My question is this: Earlier posts said try not to change water for first 30-45 days, and the last post on this thread says help getting rid of the algae is using RO water? lol. So should I start doing my water changes now? obviously using the RO water. Tank has been cycling about 2 weeks now give or take a day... Thanks!Also when doing top offs how important is it to use the RO water if I dont have an RO at my house? I am transporting the water and I use less than half a gallon every week maybe?
Ok looking for clarification again for a newbie,
Also when doing top offs how important is it to use the RO water if I dont have an RO at my house? I am transporting the water and I use less than half a gallon every week maybe?
You are doing great using RO for your top off and your new salt water - the basic rule is use RO for EVERYTHING water that goes into your tank... That includes soaking food for fish when you get them, top off, new salt water, rinsing off equipment, etc.
Do you have test kits for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates? The results from those would help you know if your tank is cycled and ready for water changes yet
If you are seeing nitrates, then IMO you are good for water changes, and then test again as the water change will reset your cycle a bit.
Slate
Well-known member
Ok looking for clarification again for a newbie,
Also when doing top offs how important is it to use the RO water if I dont have an RO at my house? I am transporting the water and I use less than half a gallon every week maybe?
I would guess that your algae is actually diatoms. Only a guess without pics but, most folks get diatoms when they start a new tank. My tank went crazy with them for about 2 weeks when I started it. The diatoms will die off once they have exhausted their food supply (silica).
The risk of not using RO water is that you may add silica and other nutrients that will feed the diatoms and other algae.
brandymichele
Member
I will post a pic tonight. Thanks for the advice
brandymichele
Member
Here is the algae in bloom in my tank its reddish/brown and mainly just coating the fronts of my live rock. Any advice on how to clean it up, if this is normal? how long it lasts ect is appreciated thanks
