new to salt. pissing me off at the moment.

[NaH2O]

I have been slowly lowering the salt level. How slow is too slow or too fast?

Here is a quote from Steve-S from another thread. I hope it helps until he can jump in here with some more information:

Do 20% water changes with the RO water every 12ish hours until you reach 14 ppt. Depends on your starting salinity to how long but should be done in 2 days at most. Adjust the new RO used for pH/alk and temp so it match's the QT parameters. Very important as well as monitoring pH and salinity several times a day. Water quality can be an issue especially in the fish few weeks so also be sure to have plenty of SW prepared ahead of time for water changes at the same 14 ppt.

From the thread: Fish Moving Time Please!

 

[Dave 777]

2 days at the most. So that is quicker than I thought. I'll speed it up a bit

 

[james734]

Dropping the salinity can be done pretty quickly. Raising it though takes some time.

 

[Dave 777]

I always err to slower is better when changing water parameters. I will step it up a bit. Thanks

 

[steve-s]

I have been slowly lowering the salt level. How slow is too slow or too fast?

You can actually drop it quite quickly. Just be sure the RO water you use is buffered to the same alkalinity and pH prior to use. The biggest downfall to hyposalinity is the chemstry dilution. It can cause the pH to crash if you are not mindful. By buffering your dilution water and/or SW used for water changes, the potential should be eliminated easily.

Do a 20% drop every few hours will be just fine. Do not prolong the process longer than a day, it is not necessary.

Honestly I have to say the fish are looking better. I know they aren't out of the woods by any means, but the lionfish is more active than I've seen him for a few days. He actually ate a little bit today

The life cycle of the parasite can be decieving so you are correct in saying the are not out of the woods. As the parasite progesses it leaves the fish to reproduce. It's usually at the stage (a week or so after initial infestation) that hobbyist mistakenly assume the problem has abated.

Keep posting/updating with your progress as we go along. You have several weeks left to go!!

Cheers
Steve

 

[Dave 777]

How many weeks before the hyposalinity is done and you start raising the salt level again?

 

[james734]

6-8 weeks from the last time you see any spots. It's not a short process..

 

[Dave 777]

Here is a shot of the QT. 20 gallon with one of my maxi jet powerheads, my sponge from my skimmer effluent and some 4" pipes for hiding spots. also grabbed a hob filter from a friend down the street and a heater. I fashioned the sponge below the power head so it makes a ghetto filter. What do you guys think?

 

[james734]

Looking good.. That's all you need for a QT.

 

[Dave 777]

Thats what I figured. Now that the dust has settled. For the main tank, no fish in it for 6 weeks right. Because I don't want a host the Ich can attatch to? I understand I need to feed the tank. What exactly doe this involve? Throwing actual food in there to let it biodegrade? thanks for the continued help.

 

[Dave 777]

One other question. I plan from this point forward to QT all fish going in the system. I did set this system up for the intent of getting a few rays. Got all the fish to add color and now this speed bump. I'm leary of of throwing a ray in QT. For the simple reason that marine ich is a very rare case in a ray and they need the swimming room and the good water quality provided in a large aquarium. A ray in a QT tank in my opinion would lessen the chances of acclimating well from the wild. Getting them to eat well is most important and in the confines of a sterile small QT it would seem to me to stress the ray out more than in a sandy substate and lots of room to swim and hide. Has anyone dealt with this? I've done freshwater rays for about 4 years now and I have never had any outbreaks of disease or parasites. The main thing is getting them to eat and from what I've read salt rays aren't that different. Thanks

 

[jetaero]

Rays can pick up ich... Just as the fish... Also, I am not sure what size aquarium you have... But marine rays need incredible amounts of room to be happy/healthy.

Saltwater rays are very hard to get to eat from wild... They also will not tolerate copper if I remember correctly...

-Josh-

 

[NaH2O]

Sharks and Rays cannot tolerate hyposalinity. They have different osmoregulation strategies compared to fish.

Hopefully, Steve can elaborate a bit on QT for rays

 

[steve-s]

How many weeks before the hyposalinity is done and you start raising the salt level again?

Four weeks after the last spot is seen on the fish. Once that period is over it will take an additioonal week to raise the salinity. It must be done very very slowly at a rate of 0.001/day. Once the salinity is back up to match the main display, the fish should remain in the QT an additional 2 weeks for observation. To be sure the treatment was indeed successful and that no secoondary infections are present. Overall, the time frame from QT back to main is about 7-8 weeks.

Sharks and Rays cannot tolerate hyposalinity. They have different osmoregulation strategies compared to fish.

Sharks and rays are highly resistant to Cryptocaryon irritans but they are by no means impervious. They can easily carry in as well: A. ocellatum, turbellarians, copepods, nematods etc. To not quarantine anything wet is asking for trouble, sharks and rays are no different. True they cannot be treated via hyposalinity (only teleost species can be) but they can be treated with lower levels of Cupramine quite effectively. 0.3-0.4 ppm Cupramine for 21 days should knock out either C. irritans or A. ocellatum.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Dave 777]

What kind of QT set up would you recommend for the rays. when I have got rays shipped in, it is lights out for 3 or 4 days. They usually hide in the substrate till they are somewhat comfy and then its getting them to eat during the first week also. They key I've found in making them as least stressed as possible (no lights and substate to hide in) I notice in QT posts there is no substrate. How would you address this for rays? Thanks.

 

[NaH2O]

Dave - I found this on WWM: FAQs about Rays, Skates, Guitarfishes

California Stingray
Hi I am quarantining two healthy baby 4 inch California stingrays. Urolophus halleri. Since its a q-tank there is no sand in there. I would like to know if my rays need sand to survive? Or is glass bottom ok?
Thanks
Dinesh Patolia
<They should, for a/the short-term of a quarantine... but should be provided with a soft, fine substrate for their permanent housing. Bob Fenner>

 

[steve-s]

Nikki thanks!!

Yes, for the short term in a QT the bare bottom is a little stressful on them but not a large concern. The possible necessity of medications makes it important that no CaCO3 materials of anykind be used. Just be sure there is ample room for one or both.

Cheer
Steve

 

[Dave 777]

Update: Lost the other lion fish. He looked ok but when I can home today he did not look good. Died shortly after. Other 2 left are looking really good though. the foxface is still eating like mad. His spots are almost completely gone and he is very active. the squirrel fish is looking just as good.

 

[steve-s]

Sorry to hear about that, how long has the fish been infested prior to this? Five days seems awefully quick for this to occur. Was the formalin removed prior to dropping the salinity?

Where is the salinity sitting now and are you monitoring the pH/alkalinity?

Cheers
Steve

 

[Dave 777]

formalin was stopped after 1 day of treatment. Then salinity was dropped after that in about 2 days. He was infested along with the first couple of fish that died so he had it for awhile. My pinpoint ph monitor is in the QT (8.13) and the salinity is around 14 ppt as you suggested. I change about 10-15% water in QT everyday. Other 2 fish are looking great. Spots are decreasing if not almost gone and they are eating. Thanks