One last attempt to see if I could get any type of assistance at reeffrontiers

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OldManOfTheSea

Well-known member
Joined
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Messages
172
Location
Hillsborough NC
I post this in lighting, for I need to still know in what im to look for or even try to buy those who might be selling that item in the forums, im also telling you what has been happening and what further decisions I made to see this tank happening in the coming months.

Hi again, the last two times or so I gotten little to no responses depending on what was the question in the first place. Now I know that I been asking on a number of certain questions from lighting to pumps. The last question I solved that myself by collecting a number of particular threads in which speaks of a large tank from beginning to end. Some might have seen, the person who will rebuild my tank, had suggested his opinion to have two pumps for my main return. between both of those pumps, they would giving me a flow rate somewhere less then 1800 gph. I told him that I wanted better and that being no one would bother to assist me any further at that time, I selected the main return pump myself. I selected the sequense dart 3600 pump, and it will I believe from James (my new aquarium guy) that the return will split into two returns.

Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH

http://www.saltysupply.com/product-p/mm1136.htm



Now I been busy the last two weeks on this, and looking for certain used equipment so that I might save to do something else as well. What I mean by that is, im buying a new stand and canopy, as of right now im a price quote for a tank stand of 36" tall under the tank. Now im waiting for my second quote, to see what difference the cost will be to have 38" tall stand. For once this tank does start, that will be it, I wont be able to do anything further due to having a tank stand of only 24" tall, for equipment it becomes a huge problem.

Now I already paid for these items, a 1/2 HP chiller, calcium reactor and a Co2 tank with Regulator, and a skimmer with pump and a waste container. Now I will be able to do little more to buy as much in cost as I done here, for were coming to the time when I need to have together before X-Mas, the property tax and that going we over $1500 this year. If I not buy the new stand and canopy, I believe that I might had started up this tank before the end of the year.

Another thing is, I lost both selection list for my 240 gal SPS tank, the cleaning crew and fish that I would mostly have, or was planning to have. Im hoping when the time comes that those who giving me their assistance on both types of crew selection, that you will assist me with it once more. After all, if I can show all the patience in world waiting to when I will finally do this tank (Six long years) that you could show me some patience as well for the bottom line here, the main fact of it is that I never in all my years while doing the hobby owned a SPS system, so there has to be questions I will ask of.

All the equipment items mentioned in this thread are listed as follows:

Pacific Coast Imports C0500 ½hp Chiller

My Reef Creations dual Chamber Calcium Reactor
Regulator
Co2 Canister

http://www.myreefcreations.com/MR-4-Protein-Skimmer

MRC MR4 Skimmer
Blueline external pump (1750 gph)
Waste container

There still be a number of items to get, as well as in the lighting set up. The problem be is, the last time I was asking something on this, and I knew that I wasn't happy with the lights selection which James (his the man who will rebuild my tank) suggested, in my last post or three in question has gotten zero opinions. The thing you need to know as well as that I never maintained a SPS reef tank, but I did other corals with no problems, im no lighting expert..

Also, for the calcium and phosphate reactors, im looking for the best high quality media for these equipment and bulk size., so cost will be somewhere high.

This is one lighting setup i became glued too, but it just needs more blue at cooling down period before shutting down>
========================================
4x250w MH.
Two Reefoptic 3 on Icecaps with 14K Phoenix.
Two Aquamedic pendants with 14k Phoenix.
8x54w T5 on Icecaps
4 total Blueplus
2 Aquable specials
2 6500

It went 2 Bluepluses in the front
Then the MHs
1x blue plus
1x6500
1x blue plus
1xAquablue

It drew about 1200 watts at the MH ballasts
And 800 or so watts for the T5s
So around 2000 watts total for 1600 watts of light.
===================================


here is another lighting on another 240 gal reef tank that I found>


Lighting - All main tank lighting is contained within the DIY aluminum light box that measures 8" tall X 15" deep X 8' long. Four Hamilton 250-watt Double Ended 14k Kelvin metal halide bulbs in four PFO mini-pendant fixtures and driven by four IceCap 250 electronic ballasts. Eight 46.5" super-actinic URI VHO bulbs on two circuits drive by two IceCap 660 electronic ballasts, one controlled by a Niche Engineering 500 Dimmer to simulate dawn/dusk. Three 25-watt incandescent blue "party" lights as moonlights. One each 150-watt Iwasaki 6500 Kelvin metal halide bulb on both the sump/refugium and grow-out tank, both driven by IceCap 150 electronic ballasts.
=================================================


I can not honestly say I know everything im looking at here, after all, I did say that im no expert when it comes to lighting, all I know is that I need to get the best lighting possible that wont as well eat up my wallet/savings. I figure a $100 a month extra electric bill, I could deal with that.

Im also looking to run me a refugium, the tank sump will remain as the 4' L tank that was put on the 240 from the beginning, a 75 gal tank, I figure I already once paid for a custom glass sump.

Now the reason for talking about what possible lighting I could have, I want to get some better idea to what ballast to look for if and when its become available on sale in the selling forum. As well about the ballasts, I want to get the top of the line. Now as I said, I am not sure to what more I could spend on this before the end of the years. But if buying used and in great condition, it would take a load of my mind.

The new stand at this time to be, stands 36" tall for $875 and the canopy for $540 is a good price I told James, now before any decision is made, im waiting for a quote on the tank stand to be 38" tall.

So with all that is said here, will I once again be able to count on the very same people who giving me some type of assistance? After all, this is a forum were people do two type of things, one is they show to all their own tanks and be heavily praised for it, the other thing be is what the forums are all about, to assist others to the best of their knowledge.

If its to be that I will get no assistance what-so-ever because of the long wait in when this tank will really and truly be started up, and become a reality other then just a dream. The use equipment as you seen listed in this thread has cost me $1,395 and the 36" tall stand with canopy is priced at $1,415 before tax.

There is still the phosphate reactor to pick out, and the lighting, also cooling fans. But I seen once this type of cooling fans, i not been able to relocate again, its attaches to the top back of the reef tank, on one unit it has four fans blowing across the water of the tank. Even that I will have a chiller, I rather not leave it all up to the chiller in what my tank temperature will be, I will have fans in place.

Please believe and trust me that I am very serious in when I will get this SPS tank started up, I like those who had giving some suggestions before to when that (same) question comes up, please talk to me. I can not just listen to one man, who is setting up this tank. I didn't care for his lighting suggestion/opinion or his main return pumps flow rate would been. I did solve the flow rate on my own account, but lighting again becomes another matter for me, I know nothing of other then that I know I need the best possible lighting.

In this post, I posted two possible sets of lights to use., The big problem if going with T5 with MH, just how many T5 I should go with, and which type? If a settlement could be reached, and I the ballasts (links) that I should best have, I could then list my request in the selling forum that im looking for these, but not too old I should think.

Again, the tank is to be dominated by SPS corals, with about three clams. And I told James that I wanted a closed loop system, he seems to think its not needed.or not worth it.

I hope you all will agree that im not looking to waste anyones time, that I will be able to count on those who has the knowledge to assist me, this tank will happen, with or without your help. Without your help will only make the progress somewhat slower. I hope that I could count on those once again.


Buddy
 
"In this post, I posted two possible sets of lights to use., The big problem if going with T5 with MH, just how many T5 I should go with, and which type? If a settlement could be reached, and I the ballasts (links) that I should best have, I could then list my request in the selling forum that im looking for these, but not too old I should think."

i think... that sums it up...???


bit wordy and who is this james? fellow.
 
What are the dimensions of your 240-gallon tank?

How tall is your custom canopy going to be?

I am asking in reference to your questions about lighting.

Gary
 
You First Language is not english.
Many People have had a very difficult time understanding what your questions are.
Most people here Do want to help you BUT DO NOT KNOW HOW.

An Example:
"for I need to still know in what im to look for or even try to buy "
You dont not state what you NEED.Or WHAT you QUESTION IS?

As far as the pump you bought--- that pump is used for CLOSED LOOPS NOT RETURNS

The reason for this is that a skimmer needs to be able to skim the water from the top of the tank and if the return goes 2100 g.p.h.+ and the skimmer only goes say 700 g.p.h.
then only one in three gallons is getting thru the skimmer.

You seem to skip around and not ask a question perhaps like this !
Example: What is the best lighting to use for growing sps is it metal halides or T-5? What are the pro's and con's !


If that was your question people WOULD respond to that .

I am not really good at writing but I hope this help's.

:)

Paul
 
Your post is very long and complicated. After completely reading it twice, I'm not really sure what you're asking or needing. Any way to simplify the questions or needs?

Hope Not to offend you but I pointed out key po9int in you'r post to better help the people that know the most about what you'r looking for.
I need to know what im to look for or even what to buy.
(Needs help remaking a list of CUC and compatible reefsafe fish)
Another thing is, I lost both selection list for my 240 gal SPS tank, the cleaning crew and fish that I would mostly have, or was planning to have. Im hoping when the time comes that those who giving me their assistance on both types of crew selection, that you will assist me with it once more.

fact is, that I never in all my years while doing the hobby owned a SPS system, so there has to be questions I will ask of.

(what he has already)
All the equipment items mentioned in this thread are listed as follows:

Pacific Coast Imports C0500 ½hp Chiller

My Reef Creations dual Chamber Calcium Reactor
Regulator
Co2 Canister

http://www.myreefcreations.com/MR-4-Protein-Skimmer

MRC MR4 Skimmer
Blueline external pump (1750 gph)
Waste container

Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH

There still be a number of items to get, as well as in the lighting set up. The thing you need to know as well as that I never maintained a SPS reef tank, but I did other corals with no problems, im no lighting expert..

Also, for the calcium and phosphate reactors, im looking for the best high quality media for these equipment and bulk size., so cost will be somewhere high.

(Lighting-What he likes and his problem with it. second option maybe another way he might like?)
This is one lighting setup i became glued too, but it just needs more blue at cooling down period before shutting down>
========================================
4x250w MH.
Two Reefoptic 3 on Icecaps with 14K Phoenix.
Two Aquamedic pendants with 14k Phoenix.
8x54w T5 on Icecaps
4 total Blueplus
2 Aquable specials
2 6500

It went 2 Bluepluses in the front
Then the MHs
1x blue plus
1x6500
1x blue plus
1xAquablue

It drew about 1200 watts at the MH ballasts
And 800 or so watts for the T5s
So around 2000 watts total for 1600 watts of light.
===================================


here is another lighting on another 240 gal reef tank that I found


Lighting - All main tank lighting is contained within the DIY aluminum light box that measures 8" tall X 15" deep X 8' long. Four Hamilton 250-watt Double Ended 14k Kelvin metal halide bulbs in four PFO mini-pendant fixtures and driven by four IceCap 250 electronic ballasts. Eight 46.5" super-actinic URI VHO bulbs on two circuits drive by two IceCap 660 electronic ballasts, one controlled by a Niche Engineering 500 Dimmer to simulate dawn/dusk. Three 25-watt incandescent blue "party" lights as moonlights. One each 150-watt Iwasaki 6500 Kelvin metal halide bulb on both the sump/refugium and grow-out tank, both driven by IceCap 150 electronic ballasts.

I can not honestly say I know everything im looking at here, after all, I did say that im no expert when it comes to lighting, all I know is that I need to get the best lighting possible that wont as well eat up my wallet/savings. I figure a $100 a month extra electric bill, I could deal with that.

Im also looking to run me a refugium, the tank sump will remain as the 4' L tank that was put on the 240 from the beginning, a 75 gal tank, I figure I already once paid for a custom glass sump.

I want to get some better idea to what ballast to look for. (so he can keep an eye out to get a good deal in the for sale/free forum) if and when its become available on sale in the selling forum. As well about the ballasts, I want to get the top of the line.(and he wants to save money because he has spent alot already and has alot to still get)
The new stand at this time to be, stands 36" tall for $875 and the canopy for $540 is a good price I told James, now before any decision is made, im waiting for a quote on the tank stand to be 38" tall.

(what he's spent so far)$1,395 and the 36" tall stand with canopy is priced at $1,415 before tax.

There is still the phosphate reactor to pick out, and the lighting, also cooling fans. But I seen once this type of cooling fans, i not been able to relocate again, its attaches to the top back of the reef tank, on one unit it has four fans blowing across the water of the tank.
(he wants to add fans along with his chiller so it won't have to do all the work, and he likes these ones (anyone know what they are?)

(he dosn't want anyone to think he's just dreaming about this tank. it will be realised and he wants our help.)
Please believe and trust me that I am very serious in when I will get this SPS tank started up, I like those who had giving some suggestions before to when that (same) question comes up, please talk to me.

I can not just listen to one man, who is setting up a tank.(<- good thing. there are many ways and he'll have to decide what's best for him with the knawledge he gains from us)
I did solve the flow rate on my own account, but lighting again becomes another matter for me, I know nothing of other then that I know I need the best possible lighting

In this post, I posted two possible sets of lights to use., The big problem if going with T5 with MH, just how many T5 I should go with, and which type?
(If he knew what the best type of ballasts and bulbs ect.. whitch is what he wants. he wants to try and find them in the for sale/free area over the time it takes him to gather the rest of the equipment he needs)
Again, the tank is to be dominated by SPS corals, with about three clams.
(He wants to add a closed loop but he needs to know the pros and cons and advantages and disadvantages of them)

Buddy
 
Its always been like that for me, for I can not really type well at all and it causes me problems to better explaining myself as best as I would like too, but the one thing im looking for is the MH and T5 lights I might go with, or one of the two specs of lighting that I listed here, here are they again>


4x250w MH.
Two Reefoptic 3 on Icecaps with 14K Phoenix.
Two Aquamedic pendants with 14k Phoenix.
8x54w T5 on Icecaps
4 total Blueplus
2 Aquable specials
2 6500

It went 2 Bluepluses in the front
Then the MHs
1x blue plus
1x6500
1x blue plus
1xAquablue

It drew about 1200 watts at the MH ballasts
And 800 or so watts for the T5s
So around 2000 watts total for 1600 watts of light.


And


Lighting - All main tank lighting is contained within the DIY aluminum light box that measures 8" tall X 15" deep X 8' long. Four Hamilton 250-watt Double Ended 14k Kelvin metal halide bulbs in four PFO mini-pendant fixtures and driven by four IceCap 250 electronic ballasts. Eight 46.5" super-actinic URI VHO bulbs on two circuits drive by two IceCap 660 electronic ballasts, one controlled by a Niche Engineering 500 Dimmer to simulate dawn/dusk. Three 25-watt incandescent blue "party" lights as moonlights. One each 150-watt Iwasaki 6500 Kelvin metal halide bulb on both the sump/refugium and grow-out tank, both driven by IceCap 150 electronic ballasts.


Due to as well the medication and age, my mind has been failing me in better telling you what it is im looking for. But know that even thou im a unknown number of years left to me in enjoying myself, finally a SPS reef tank.

I wish to get the best idea in MH ballast for DE 250 watt MH, also, im looking for the top of the line in this equipment. I hope that its understood in just what it is im looking for. Thanks

The more serious problem my health deals with, is difficult to explain, but I can say that the pressures my skull deals with causes me, how can I say it, blank periods, like blacking out, but still awake, only I become less aware about things around me. its not all bad as that, i do have myself good moments too.


seattle989, that do about sums it up, I mean that is exactly what im asking about, thanks

Gary, the tanks dimensions are 8'x2'x2'
Paul, what if I misunderstood what one else was using as their main return pump, it still proves however that I could use much assistance here, would you agree with ne on that? OK, if im too look to use the pump I listed here as my closed loop, rather then the tanks main return, which pump would you then best suggest?

menace78, you just about sum it up>

Buddy

PS, when i started to type the second post to this thread, there was only one response, im slow in getting my message together due to one of my medical condition. Bu it will not prevent me from doing this tank. :)
 
I read through it twice as well (required a second pass after the initial "what the heck?" moment). Lighting a tank is highly dependant on the dimensions of said aquarium... Nobody will be able to give you any sort of valid, accurate feedback or opinions unless they know the dimensions of your setup, what sort of rockwork you have planned, and the species you intend to keep. Judging by the comparisons you chose, I'm guessing that you're setting up a 240 gallon display. Are you planning on the wall-of-rock approach? Are you going to build islands / mounds with open areas of sand between? I guess the most important factor is the depth of your tank. t-5 lighting (even with individual reflectors on each bulb, which I'm sure everyone agrees is optimal) will start to lose effectiveness after 30" depth from what I've observed. If you intend to use the t-5 lighting as merely a supplement to the halides, have you considered VHO bulbs? A VHO actinic bulb brings out MUCH more of the coloration of corals / livestock than a comparable t-5, and is generally cheaper to purchase / replace. Depending on your rockwork, I would just put in as many halides as you need and merely use t-5 or VHO bulbs around the outsides of the hood / canopy / fixture as a supplement and to provide you with the nice actinic effect and to prevent the "spotlight" effect in the areas not directly under each halide fixture (unless of course you enjoy the appearance of light "columns" of course). There's so many variables in lighting choice that it's impossible to give any sort of critique or feedback without knowing exactly what your plans are for the tank. Even at that point, I'm sure there will be a great discrepancy between the people who prefer t-5 lighting and those who prefer halides. If the people experimenting with LED lighting or those crazy HID / projection lights (Liveforphysics!) chime in, then we're surely doomed. All anyone can really do for you is provide you with examples, and suggestions based upon the similarities between their setup and yours. For this sort of thing, you'll have to give a lot more detail regarding your plans.

For example, if (as I intend to do with my 360g display) you set up three islands of rock with large areas of sand between, you really only need 3 halides (one over each "island"). There's no point pouring light onto a bunch of sand ;). Depending on the depth of your tank and the corals you intend to keep, you can probably get away with those 250watt halides from one of your plans, which are generally suited to a depth of 30" or less between the light and bottom. Unless you plan on having a tank deeper than 30", or want to keep light-craving SPS on the sandbed for some obscure reason, there isn't any real reason to use 400w bulbs. Might as well save some energy costs, or use the extra wattage for water flow / circulation pumps which are just as important as the lighting, particularly in a SPS setup.

Bulb choice and design (single end "mogul" or double-ended / HQI bulbs) really depends on your own spectrum / color preferences. I like a strong blue tint in my tanks, so I use XM 20k bulbs. Phoenix 14k bulbs are just as blue from what I've seen to compare, so there's a large difference between one brand and another. Also, in general terms (dependant upon brand / spectrum / etc of course) a double-ended or HQI bulb will provide higher PAR ratings than a single-ended mogul bulb. Again, this depends on what type of ballasts you have (magnetic, electronic, pulse-start, etc) and what bulbs you choose... Again, I reemphasize the fact that there's a TON of options in lighting, and probably twice as many opinions regarding what is the "right" way to do something, so you need to have a few other things thought out to narrow down the range of possibilities.

My suggestion is to sit down and approach this from a different angle. First decide what sort of aquascaping you desire, and what type of corals / clams / fish you want to stock. After you've made that decision, you can transition into lighting, which in my opinion should be almost the last step of any real build since it's dependant on so many other variables. Also, as for the complaint about not recieving any help / feedback on other posts, keep in mind that 90% of the people here on this forum are in the Pacific Northwest, particularly in Western Washington. I freely admit that I'm guilty of completely ignoring postings in the livestock / equipment classifieds sections from people not in my area. Generally it's also not a good idea to start off a request for advice / feedback with an aneurism-inducing wall of discombobulated text and bitter, disaffected complaints. If nobody responded to your first posting(s), then chances are the people reading this thread now haven't even read the original attempt, and probably get put off by the whining reference to past injustices that I'm sure most of of the people here haven't any clue about.

Oh well. The weekend is over, and now my brain needs a rest to prepare for the work week.
 
Bleh, caught by the length of my own posting. Apparently you answered most of my questions while I was busy typing them :) Thus is the internet I suppose. Sanjay Joshi's site is probably the most in-depth comparison of various bulbs / ballasts / brands / etc that you'll find in a single place. Check out http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting, find the bulb / ballast combination that provides the highest PAR values in the color spectrum you prefer, and you'll probably come as close as possible to the answer to your "which brand / type / rating?" questions.
 
My suggestion is to sit down and approach this from a different angle. First decide what sort of aquascaping you desire, and what type of corals / clams / fish you want to stock.

The tank is to be dominated with SPS corals witha number of clams. If I have to wait on any decision on what type of lighting, I would then first have to get up a cleaning crew list and fish selection. So being that the tanks to be dominated by SPS corals, with clams, do we really need the fish list. Because no matter what fish I might select, it will have to be able to coexist within the type of tank im planning or its out, I would not get that fish when the time comes for questions and answers on those lines. I may be old, but im no fool to simply get something just because i fancy it. :)

Buddy
 
I guess its best to talk about one thing at a time, for the longer the post I do, it only becomes more and more confusing.


Let us talk about the return pump, the pump I selected, one says its a pump for the closed loop, OK, which pump would you suggest as my main return pump? I last selected me the Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH.

Buddy

Do tell me if you want to do a fish and cleaning crew selection before the lighting.
 
With regards to your lighting question, I might caution against using 4x250w MH on your 240 if you're planning on making it and SPS dominated reef. I began with this set-up on my 240 (96x24x24) and found that it really wasn't enough lighting even with T5 supplimental to support SPS corals unless they were literally in the very top portion of the tank. I have since switched over to 4x400w 20k Mogul MH's run by Lumatek ballasts and am much happier with the results as I can now place SPS corals literally anywhere in the tank without having to worry about them starving for light.

I would also caution against using a dart for your return from the sump. You want your flow rate through the sump to be relatively slow. I use two Mag 9.5's that after head loss only flow a total of about 1200gph through my sump. With my Closed Loop I'm actually running a Reeflo Hammerhead (5800GPH), and the combined total flow still only puts me at roughly 30x flow which is about bare minimum that I would run for an SPS dominated reef.
 
Lets handle one thing at a time gentlemen :)

The chiller and calcium reactor with the Co2 tank has arrived 1/2 hour agoe by FedX, And soon I will get the skimmer with its pump.


The question is on the return pump idea I have, the piping in place right now is 1" and it will all be taking down once the new stand is decided on and brought here. But is I were to have the Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH as my main return pump, what you believe that the PVC piping should be?

Buddy
 
The question is on the return pump idea I have, the piping in place right now is 1" and it will all be taking down once the new stand is decided on and brought here. But is I were to have the Sequence ReeFlo Dart Pump, 3600 GPH as my main return pump, what you believe that the PVC piping should be?

You have to go with what the manufacturer specifies Buddy, anything else will void your warraty on the pump if you have problems.
 
I was on the phone calling up in NY, Long island to a Parrots of the World, I know Marc who is the owner and has a great deal of experiences all around with all kinds of pets, what if it be for a aquarium, or a bird cage.

I told mark of the pump and it has a output of 1.5" and I asked him that, what if I ran all the piping at 1.5", would this prevent a backup, and he said that I should do find with that.

But i will call the manufacturer as suggested, it couldnt hurt.

Buddy
 
Well you wanted advice but 2 people here have told you that this is TOO FAST for a RETURN.!!!


"I told mark of the pump and it has a output of 1.5" and I asked him that, what if I ran all the piping at 1.5", would this prevent a backup, and he said that I should do find with that.
"

Are you SURE that marc understood this as a RETURN and NOT a CLOSED LOOP.
You need a LARGE drain to allow the water to fall into a pipe and then get returned.
If you just pull water from underneath the top surface You will not be removing the top layer of water that has the oils etc.


Calculators->Drain Size Calculator

Using the following input parameters
Gallons per Hour = 3000

Drain and Overflow sizes are calculated as
Recommended minimum drain pipe diameter = 2.26 inches
Recommended minimum linear overflow size = 45 inches


See Here :

http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php?gph=3000&drain=Submit
 
Thank you plack, you be happy to know that exact detailed facts were brought to my attention and the return pump was changed to the Dart 2500 gph pump, and I will have 1.5" output line . ;)
 
I think the Dart would still be a little big for a return pump. You only need about half that flow rate. I would use a poseidan or panworld pump for a return with only about 1000 gph. If you have two overflows than this is about the max you can run as a return pump due to overflow limitations.
 
A dart 2500 GPH assuming little head loss still needs this :

Calculators->Drain Size Calculator

Using the following input parameters
Gallons per Hour = 2200

Drain and Overflow sizes are calculated as
Recommended minimum drain pipe diameter = 1.94 inches
Recommended minimum linear overflow size = 33 inches

I wish you luck My 180 reef has only 800GPH Return.
Now the water movement inside by pumps or closed loops is ALLOT more.
 
If even the Dart 2500 is too much for what im looking to do, what do you suggest I go with? :confused:



Well you wanted advice but 2 people here have told you that this is TOO FAST for a RETURN.!!!


"I told mark of the pump and it has a output of 1.5" and I asked him that, what if I ran all the piping at 1.5", would this prevent a backup, and he said that I should do find with that.
"

Are you SURE that marc understood this as a RETURN and NOT a CLOSED LOOP.
You need a LARGE drain to allow the water to fall into a pipe and then get returned.
If you just pull water from underneath the top surface You will not be removing the top layer of water that has the oils etc.


Calculators->Drain Size Calculator

Using the following input parameters
Gallons per Hour = 3000

Drain and Overflow sizes are calculated as
Recommended minimum drain pipe diameter = 2.26 inches
Recommended minimum linear overflow size = 45 inches


See Here :

http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php?gph=3000&drain=Submit
 
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