Open to your thought (lighting design)

[jlehigh]

I have had 20K 400W lighting over my tank for a while now and I would like to play with some 10K and also add some actinics into the picture.

Here are two actinic layouts I am thinking of implementing this weekend. Let me know what your thoughts are.. These will be runnign on a Icecap660

 

[Kensn]

I think the top pic would give the best coverage. If they are the bulbs with internal "reflectors" you could angle the 2 on the ends in towards the middle of the tank, by rotating the bulbs slightly in the end caps. I know the IceCap is rated for 16' of bulbs, but having equally sized lamps will be a benifit also.

 

[tamarindthai]

J,looks good on 2nd picture with VHO,,

 

[Pauls]

I have to agree with Kensn. The top pic looks the most practical, with the best coverage,especially down the middle of the tank, where most of your coral probably are. I also like the fact that all the bulbs are the same size, should simplify things.

 

[jlehigh]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your thoughts.

Beleive me I don't have too much time on my hands but I want to take this to one more level..

Below are visual representations of the projection of usable light in my tank for each confirguration.

Now let's count up the usable feet of bulb.

On the top diagram there are two 24" bulbs with TWO usable sides of light and two 24" bulbs with one usable side of light each (assuming they are also tilted)

This adds up to 12' of usable bulb (following me?)

On the second diagram there are two 24" bulbs with one usable side and two 72" bulbs also with one usable side each.

This adds up to 16' of usable bulb.

So where does this leave me? We know the second diagram projects more light into the tank, but will it best cover the areas I need it to..

 

[Kensn]

My tiny little brain says that the bulbs in pic 2 will be losing a lot of light being on the edge. I think the lights in the first pic, at least the middle 2 will be optimized for dispersing their light. To get the most out of VHOs you shound have then as close to the water as possible, and in the configuration in pic 1, this would allow for easier access to the tank.

How far in from the edge of the tank are the ones in pic 2 going to be?

 

[wrightme43]

Well if you wanna get just slick crazy and technical about it. LOL LOL
do it like this. O= mh bulb and /= vho bulb
\O\O/O/
Then you would only be losing the light at the edges of the tank on each end of the bulbs. LOL

 

[Kensn]

OK I am hoked on this. I have been staring at this for the last 10 minutes trying to figure it out. Top one is tank from the end with the bulbs in pic 2, bottom one is from the front with bulbs from pic 1.

 

[wrightme43]

My basic take on it is this. Pic one at the top has 2x 24" with 50% usable light and 2x 24" with 25% usable light. 36" of usable light
Pic two at the top has 2x 72" bulbs with 25% usable light and 2x 24" bulbs with 25% usable light. 48 inchs of usable light.
My insane way has 4x 24" bulbs with 50% usable light. 48 inches of usable light.
Now the question is which one will light up the tank the best. I think straight or catycornered woud do the best.
Cool drawing Ken.

 

[Kensn]

I just don't know if putting them "catycornered" would interfer with the MH lights by casting shawdows. Now I now I drew the MH having too much of a red spectrum, but if we were to angle the VHOs they wound interfer with the MH rays wouldn't they?

 

[jlehigh]

Thanks Guys

Ken, you speak my language.. PICTURES!!

Though in theory the diagonal VHO positions would cover different areas, it is not feasible since I have large L3 reflectors. There is only about 3-4" between reflectors and a "catycorner" config will undoubetdly block my MH's.

My rockwork comes into play here too. Let's really complicate things! Nah it isn't worth it unless others out there are enjoying the ride.

On a side note. I replaced 2 20K bulbs with 10K Reeflux bulbs tonight and I am very excited about the results. These bulbs have high PAR outputs and appear almost more like a 12K which makes sense since according to Sanjay's spectral analysis it has HUGE peaks in the 450nm range.

 

[jlehigh]

BTW: I'm still starring at your cool drawings Ken... You made my decision a bit more difficult In a good way of course

 

[big t]

While John may not have too much time on his hands, I would say that Ken has way too much time on his hands, with some short fingers I might add :lol:

John I think it will work fine either way, just go with what will be cleaner, which is the 1st pic IMO

 

[mojoreef]

LOL Johnny johnny johnny just cant stop playing can you, hehe your worse then me. I would go with the top plan, your trying to blend 10 and 20's so having the actinics between will soften the edges and allow for a better blend.


Mike

 

[Kensn]

While John may not have too much time on his hands, I would say that Ken has way too much time on his hands, with some short fingers I might add :lol:

Finger Tom, finger. Don't make it any worse than it is.

Yep, I was interested in this one.

Maybe I should dig out one of my raytracing programs....

 

[jlehigh]

Hey BigT though I think your name should be changed to BigSkim

I think the first will be cleaner as well. I bought some galvanized steel ties I was going to mount the actinics to the L3's to but I have a better idea with more upfront and end finish work but I'll be happiers in the long run.. I didn't make a falss wall on the viewing panel side of the wall it sites in, so a 2X4 is taking up 3.5" of tank it doesn't need to. I'm going to cut about 2' up the wall and finish it as a false wall. This way the actincs can be easily mounted to the euro-brace and independent of my MH's sliding light light rack..

LOL Johnny johnny johnny just cant stop playing can you, hehe your worse then me. I would go with the top plan, your trying to blend 10 and 20's so having the actinics between will soften the edges and allow for a better blend.
Mike

I'm worse than I car to admit.. Could have bought some pretty sweet colonies for the price my hobbyist/perfectionist has cost me.. Making changes to reef tank hardware was the class at Mojo Univeristy I passed with flying colors

Of course anything to avoid working on that darn DIY skimmer of mine... I popped the top off yet again.. Sanding edges on 4 sides to achieve a good weld is a PITA!! The sad part is two of my welds probably would have held fine... I just hate the look of bubbles!! Bubbles are bad EVERYWHERE outside the skimmer

 

[big t]

Hey John, If you can't get it sanded good, bring it down again and I will help you do it in about 5 mins.

 

[jlehigh]

That's a generous offer Tom.. I'll let you know if I reach my breaking point (Breaking point = jlehigh throwing 200.00 worth of acylic threw a few walls)

 

[Elmo18]

Hmm interesting choices John.

Why don't you combine the two and add two more actinic bulbs running the length of the tank (one behind, one in front) and add that to the FIRST diagram? and leave those 75 watters in between each bulb going front to back.

Just a thought. You'll need an extra ballast I guess...and 2 more bulbs...

Hmm...I think the corals will be fine since the MH will provide most of the usable light.

- Ilham

 

[jlehigh]

The extra ballast and lights is exactly my constaint at this point. I am less an less concerned about the actinic coverage simpley because the color I am getting from the new bulbs is really nice.

I'll get started on this after the Seahawk's game tomorrow. We'll see how far I get..

While I'm at it let's add you suggestion Elmo but minus two 24" bulbs