Pacific Sun Light Programming

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sounds to me its not storing the information on the ram chip properly. i wonder if there was any damage due to the poor packaging. any updates from the company?
on a sidenote,
i also noticed that my red planet has gone to green planet and my red fuzzy acro is slowly turning green. i thinking about adding some t5 this weekend. im sure the t5 will kick on the chiller though
 
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I dont think its a memmory problem..I have run the light as a single unit,and it works just fine...Its only when the two are both running that there is a problem....I hear Freakin was having some similar issues with his as well...Maybe you just cant have 2 IO units running that closely..Im not sure...I am working with Rafal and Pac Sun on solving this matter...It looks like I just will have to go with a master and slave unit....which I am fine with...I LOVE the lights.....and the controllability...and have found that I dont really need to controll both units...because I have them using the same settings!Hopefully we get it worked out soon,and I think we will.....Rafal has been Great with me and with these issues...spent countless hrs on the phone,e-mail and even linked to my computer...
 
Got mine installed. Man they are bright. Mine is also wifi enabled. The touch screen has to charge and then in a few hours the LCD should boot up. I enable wifi, and then the lights connect to the server in Poland and update to the newest firmware. After wifi is enabled I can program everything. In the mean time while it charges the lights are blasting 100%. It started peeling the paint off the walls. I have the whole top of the tank covered in cardboard while the battery charges. This thing throws around so much light, I used the cardboard from the box to shield the tank from the light so fishies can get some sleep. Somehow the light is still bright enough the fish think it's 2pm.

I look forward to dimming these things, but so far so good. I already connected the lights to the netbook and the software recognized the fixture. Until I can enable wifi I have no bluetooth I guess.
 
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Got mine installed. Man they are bright. Mine is also wifi enabled. The touch screen has to charge and then in a few hours the LCD should boot up. I enable wifi, and then the lights connect to the server in Poland and update to the newest firmware. After wifi is enabled I can program everything. In the mean time while it charges the lights are blasting 100%. It started peeling the paint off the walls. I have the whole top of the tank covered in cardboard while the battery charges. This thing throws around so much light, I used the cardboard from the box to shield the tank from the light so fishies can get some sleep. Somehow the light is still bright enough the fish think it's 2pm.

I look forward to dimming these things, but so far so good. I already connected the lights to the netbook and the software recognized the fixture. Until I can enable wifi I have no bluetooth I guess.

sounds high tech Brett. looking foward to some pictures...
 
Alright LCD is up. Netbook says it recognizes the fixture and that they are connected. However they will not communicate. Also the wifi pops up and grabs the neighbors connection almost instantly. It doesn't give me a chance to select my network which would require a password.

The lights are programable completely from the LCD but I cannot reach it. I need to program this thing on the pc. Any ideas? P.s. I bought the Bluetooth rafal had recommended so it should be a comparability issue.
 
I was able to play with the lights a little. I'm running 22k at 100% and the pink t5s at 100%. All the corals look like when somebody tries to Photoshop the pic and butchers the tint and saturation. My yellow tang is orange. It's awesome. I cannot seem to get a decent pic tho.
 
Alright. Well the fixture has a computer on it that runs windows CE. The factory settings were to automatically set to connect to the first open available wifi. I have fixed this. I hadn't realized that there was a whole windows operating system running in the background. When the system booted up it automatically loaded the xscreen programing.
 
When I scan for bluetooth to connect to my computer it says :Bluetooth hardware error (controller not present)

on my netbook it lists pacfic sun led as one of my Bluetooth devices.

What the heck is going on?
 
Alright guys I'm done for the nite.

When I try and connect it says com3i doesn't exsist.
 
you can controll the lamp two ways:

1) X-screen on LCD

or

2) Bluetooth device - your bluetooth will find your lamp. you need to pair and than download the software.

When I scan for bluetooth to connect to my computer it says :Bluetooth hardware error (controller not present)

on my netbook it lists pacfic sun led as one of my Bluetooth devices.

What the heck is going on?
 
once you pair your device - you set COM port - ususally it will be COM3 or COM4 - just connect on COM3 or COM4 but without 'i'

Alright guys I'm done for the nite.

When I try and connect it says com3i doesn't exsist.
 
if you can control the color temp it means that you connected the lamp via bluetooth and grabbed the firmware update if I am not mistaken. bluetooth as described earlier will allow you to add PAR table.

the lights are powerful as you can see - lower then intensity and start slow otherwise red planet will become green planet.

I was able to play with the lights a little. I'm running 22k at 100% and the pink t5s at 100%. All the corals look like when somebody tries to Photoshop the pic and butchers the tint and saturation. My yellow tang is orange. It's awesome. I cannot seem to get a decent pic tho.
 
It wouldn't allow me to. The Bluetooth is already synced and everything

this morning only one of the three LED panels is lighting. Now the LCD won't boot up either.
 
I sent them to your pacfic sun email and also to your private email.

The email to your personal account bounced back as unrecievable. I sent it two more tlmes

Did you get it the second time?
 
I dont think its a memmory problem..I have run the light as a single unit,and it works just fine...Its only when the two are both running that there is a problem....I hear Freakin was having some similar issues with his as well...Maybe you just cant have 2 IO units running that closely..Im not sure...I am working with Rafal and Pac Sun on solving this matter...It looks like I just will have to go with a master and slave unit....which I am fine with...I LOVE the lights.....and the controllability...and have found that I dont really need to controll both units...because I have them using the same settings!Hopefully we get it worked out soon,and I think we will.....Rafal has been Great with me and with these issues...spent countless hrs on the phone,e-mail and even linked to my computer...

I'm still having all sorts of problems...it definitely seems that having two IO units right next to eachother is really causing an issue. Tonight I am going to seperate the two units and try to put a lot of space between them in order to see if operating them without intference with work while connected to the same bluetooth. I can say that I am getting very frustrated with the necessity to do these diagnosis steps. I am not the quality assurance tester for PacSun...
 
I'm still having all sorts of problems...it definitely seems that having two IO units right next to eachother is really causing an issue. Tonight I am going to seperate the two units and try to put a lot of space between them in order to see if operating them without intference with work while connected to the same bluetooth. I can say that I am getting very frustrated with the necessity to do these diagnosis steps. I am not the quality assurance tester for PacSun...

your having the same issues too? my two I/O are working simutaneously and are about 1 foot apart. this is my setup
my ballasts are hooked up to a DC4 that is controlled by my aquacontroller jr so that if my tank goes up a certain temperature it will turn off one I/O. if it goes above another temperature it will turn off the second I/O. i know the DC4 has some noise filters in there because when i had a icecap 660 and dual galaxy ballasts it wouldnt communicate properly with the acjr; after the dc4 it solved the problem. so maybe its a noise issue with the ballasts hooking up to the same outlet?
i bought a cheap bluetooth for 8 buck s at RE PC.
it came with a driver disk but i had to download the new driver online.
is your driver for your bluetooths updated?
i paired and connected with each I/O separately. noting that i would only power one I/O at a time. one will be com port 9 and the other would be com port 8.
i would first connect the bluetooth to the first I/O then open the pac sun program.
after finishing programming, i would exit out of the pac sun program and then disconnect from the I/O with the bluetooth. then i would turn off that light and proceed to the next light. i would power on the second I/O unit and once done programming i would exit through the pac sun program and then disconnect my bluetooth. then i turn on my other I/O that has been programmed.
i staggered my timing so one I/O will turn on a half hour later after the first I/O.
mine have been working great so far. hopefully this helps
 
i like to add that if your not connected to the internet, it speeds the communication to the lamps faster. seems like everytime you open the pac sun program, it wants to communicate to the internet
 
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