Phosphate

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burning2nd

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phospates are up,

i dont know if i used the phosBAn corectly, it said can be rinsed. (should i have rinsed with RODI?)

i did a water change and i will repeat tomarrow
 
yes dood you're suppose to rinse it first with RO water after it clears up and then you can use it in your sump :) .
 
Not sure if phosphates are found in regular tap water, if so, then probably you added some. Which phosphate media do you use? I use the Julian Sprungs formula and they don't recommend rinsing it. You just toss it in the reactor and let it run in a bucket until the water clears up (which is about 15 seconds) or like I do...Run it through some filter floss until it clears up. With the Julian Sprungs formula all you are really trying to do is remove the fine dust particles. However, with anything you are using/adding to the tank, you should always use ro/di water wherever rinsing, thawing etc is concerned. Just think about rinsing out a sponge in tap water that has over 120 ppm of nitrates in it and then throwing that soaked sponge into the tank! :eek: Same goes for media:)
 
It won't hurt anything if you don't rinse it first, they reccomend using RO/DI otherwise your rinsing it in water that would contain phosphates & thus would be absorbed somewhat by the media being used. Was that clear as Mud? :D
 
How long has it been in there man?
It takes time.
If its been in there for a while it may be time to replace it.
Its best in a reactor. Then you can measure the phosphate coming out of the reactor, and the phosphate in the water to tell if its saturated yet.
 
how much are you feeding?
i know some foods.... specially frozen foods would make your phosphates go up if you don't rinse them, i used to do that :p and you don't know how much algae used to love me for that.
It depends on what kind of phosphate media like Krishant says.
 
I rinse mine in the sink and my phosphates are very low 0.3 at the very worst.

If it turns a yellowish color then it is used up and you should get rid of it.
 
cool thanks guys.



Im not sure what im gonna do im on my 2nd day of no lights+ almost no food.

i had to feed the fish a little. :-(

but the phosphates are comeing down a little. now i rinsed a small bag of PhosBan last night to this morning and then put it in the sump

maybe ill get a reactor. but this green bush is bad news. this must be the killer alge shzt that there talking about all over the place.

shy of remove all inhabs to a QT tank, and removing the rocks what other options do i have?
 
Another great way to export phophates is using macroalgae in your sump. Chaetomorpha is great stuffAll living organism contain phosphorus. Phosphorus is an important element of live as a component for cell membranes, as an energy source, and for other bio-chemical processes.

Phosphorus is a very reactive component making it readily absorbed and generally available in aquatic environments as either an organic or inorganic phosphate.

Phosphates (PO4) can be created within the closed aquatic system or imported from the outside.

Phosphate as a by-product of mineralization of dead matter such as plants, bacteria, feces, uneaten food, algae, fish slime etc. are all internal contributors.

Dead plant material or rotting food particles settle either on the substrate or within the filter. Rinsing filter materials and vacuuming the gravel at every water change can significantly reduce potential phosphate accumulation from these internal sources.

Replacement water can also contain phosphate, sometimes surprisingly high concentrations, even if RO units are in use.

Additives such as pH stabilizers or carbon, and frozen fish food are potential external phosphate sources. Avoiding phosphate containing products as well as testing of the replacement water for phosphates can further help prevent accumulation. If in doubt, additives, carbon, pH buffers, and the water should be tested and replaced if necessary.

Prohibiting phosphates from entering the water or from forming within the aquarium is the best safeguard from the harmful consequences of accumulating phosphates.

Another source of PO4 is sometimes the carbon used if you are using it. Make sure it is a good type of reef type carbon Not some no name el cheapo carbon. The different processes that are used to mfgr carbon can actually cause PO4 to leach into your tank. The use of carbon that is steam processed is safe.

Inorganic phosphate or orthophosphate is the soluble form. It is readily available and quickly absorbed by plants. Organic phosphate refers to phosphate that is part of a cell structure or organically bound in other ways. Organic phosphate must be broken down by bacteria in order to become soluble orthophosphate.

The biggest source of organic phosphate is fish food. 5 grams of flake food can increase the organic phosphate level by 0.4 ppm. The filters and substrate have to be cleaned regularly before the organic phosphate is mineralized to inorganic orthophosphate.

Some marine and especially reef aquarium set-ups rely on less frequent water changes. The reason for one is a delicately balanced filtration based on live rock and/or the need for nutrient supplementation for coral growth, among others. To compensate for less frequent water changes a protein skimmer is attached, which will remove many proteins and waste particles that would otherwise be broken down to soluble orthophosphates.

More than 90% of the phosphate contained in the aquarium is organic phosphate. The common test kit measures the inorganic soluble orthophosphate, not the organic form or the total phosphate content.
Generally the measurable phosphate level should be below 0.05 ppm.

Phosphates are often associated with algae growth. Algae will grow with phosphate present in ppb (parts per billion), indeed only a limited amount of phosphates are necessary for algae to grow. However if nitrates (nitrogen compound) are kept low , high phosphate levels will not create algae growth. Without nitrates there will be no algae growth no matter how high the phosphate concentration.

Planted tanks have the advantage that plants are capable of storing and consuming phosphates. Plants can only take up in-organic orthophosphate, thus reducing the levels. Saltwater tanks can imitate that by planting macro algae into a refugium or sump.

In reef aquariums Kalkwasser can just about eliminate phosphate. At a pH above 8.9 phosphate precipitates in the water as insoluble phosphate and flocks out. Marine aquariums kept above a pH of 8.4 allow some phosphate to be bound to rocks and substrate in an insoluble form. Nevertheless it will become soluble if the pH drops below 8.
Phosphate can not be removed from the water since organic phosphate is constantly converted into in-organic soluble orthophosphate. Nevertheless, phosphates can be controlled by a good maintenance schedule aimed at keeping organic phosphates and nitrates at a minimum.
 
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well, put ill ditch the big bag of el cheap'o and get my self a nice milk containor looking one next time.
 
It's not the best. However, it is very good, easy to use, and a good value for the money. Make sure you rinse it well prior to use.

carbon1.jpg
 
Not sure but a good way to test your carbon is take what you have and put a couple of tablesppons into a small container with RO water after a few days test it with a relaible PO4 test kit. This will tell you if the carbon you are using is leaching PO4 into your tank.

I use Coralife coconut and love the stuff, although it does cost more than some it is worth not having to worry about PO4 being intorduced by something that is supposed to be helping my tank
 
While coconut carbons are very effective at stripping Chlorine, they are typically only used in RO/DI units as their effectiveness drops substantially when used in a reef aquarium.

Coconut carbons (and most pelletized carbons) are vapor phase carbons as opposed to liquid phase carbons. That's why the Kent, Lifeguard, Tunze, and Coralife are all at the low end of the effectiveness on the chart I included above.

To solve 99% of the phosphate issue with carbons, rinse well with tap water. Then do the test that Jumpincactus recommends. If any phosphates show up, soak the carbon in RO/DI water for 24 hours before using.
 
why tap water? i thought tap water was the enemy?

It's just a rinse to get rid of dust. The carbon itself will sequester the chlorine from what little tap water remains in the carbon's pore space. If you can afford to rinse it with RO/DI water, so much the better.

I personally soak my carbon in RO/DI water overnight after I've rinsed it. This removes the remaining phosphates and it serves to deaerate the carbon which makes it work better. (Air, if locked in the adsorption pores, prevents adsorption).
 
so i should soak it in rodi,

i can afford unlimited rodi. i try to rinse everything with rodi
 

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