Possible New Treatment for Ich within a reef tank

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ldrhawke

John
Joined
Dec 20, 2004
Messages
221
Location
Saint Augustine, Florida
About a week ago I purchased a green bubble anemone. I made a stupid error while adding it to my tank. I accidentally allowed the water in the bag to flow into the tank while trying to remove the anemone from the bag. The next morning my purple tang was covered with ich white spots. Obviously the water in the bag was loaded with ich tomites. My powder blue tang and foxface also as a number of white spots on them, but no where near as bad as the purple tang.

When I saw the Purple Tangs covered with ich spots I proceeded to look up possible treatment on the internet, the prognosis didn’t look good. Treating the whole tank with copper, antibiotic, or formalin, was sure death for my coral. Getting the fish out of the tank and quarantining them was going to nearly impossible with the design of my tank and the live rock layout would require having to tear it all down. I started resigning myself to loosing all the fish, which from what I read was going to happen; as the ich went though it life cycle, re-hatching a new batch of tomonts and eventually attacking and killing all the fish.

Then an idea came to mind. I remembered on several occasions having out breaks of disease and parasites when introducing new Koi into my ponds. The standard initial standard treatment was to add a considerable amount of salt to increase the fishes body slime. The body slime gives the fish a prophylactic protection and helps them to fend off diseases and parasites.

Obviously just adding more salt won’t work in a reef tank to increase body slime. But adding Vodka might. I remember one of the side effects of dozing Vodka as a carbon source to lower nitrates and phosphates, which I have been daily dosing about 1 .5 ml vodka per 10 gallons of tank capacity in my reef tanks with success for some time. A side effect from over dosing was a significant increase in bacterial slime on all surfaces of the tank. If you over dose Vodka by a lot the increased bacteria will not only cloud the water, but it can coat everything with a hairy flowing bacterial slime.

I figured that the Vodka (clean carbon source) increase may also increase the fishes good bacterial body slime and help it to fight off the ich. What did I have to loose? I was going to loose the fish anyway, if I did nothing. I decided to increase my normal daily 1.5 ml / 10 gallon dose by 5 times to 7.5 ml/ 10 gal. I had pushed the Vodka dosing too high before and knew what the effect would be. It had no real ill effects on the coral or fish, other than producing a lot of white bacteria film on the tank walls and causing the skimmer to over flow with foam

The second day after increasing the vodka dose, it appeared to be having a positive effect on the purple tang. The number ich spots were noticeably less. But, on the third day all the fish looked worse, the ich spots seemed to be increasing. The powder blue and foxface had a few more ich spots on their pectoral fins and the powder blue’s body scales seemed to be getting a coarse appearance. I continued the high rate daily Vodka dosing rate.

On the fourth day the water was cloudy with excess bacteria and a white angle hair like slime was appearing on everything. I didn’t dose that day and did a partial water change.

The skimmer continued producing twice the amount of normal skimate, while dosing Vodka. I use a filter floss in my filter bags and the bags virtually blind and stop recycle water flow through them from the heavy slimy bacteria build up in the floss. I changed out the filter floss daily. The bacteria laden floss feels like a hand full of snot when you remove it, it is so loaded with bacteria.

None of the SPS coral seemed negatively affected by the increased Vodka dosing; infact , the SPS had expanded their polyps and looked like they like the increased bacteria. The three clams in the tank definitely liked the increased bacteria and were expanded fully.

On the fifth day I saw a marked improvement. The tank cloudiness was gone. The fish had just about eaten all of the bacterial hair slim on the live rock. And most importantly, there was considerably less ich spots on the purple tang. The powder blue tang and foxface only had a few of ich spots left and the body scales no longer coarse looking.

It is still to early to reach a positive conclusion, but this maybe a safe treatment for marine ich in reef tanks. I won’t be sure until the parasites life cycle has been completed in another week or maybe even a month. At this point it looks very promising. Right now I am just writing this up in hopes of being able have some positive results to publish for others as a possible treatment if they should encounter this dreaded parasite.

I will continue to dose Vodka at about 3ml per 10 gal daily. I don’t view the use of Vodka as a cure, but rather a way of enhancing and boosting the fishes normal skin slim bacteria that it uses to fend off diseases and parasites. Hopefully the ich slowly dies off as the increased body slim keeps it from getting a hold.

ICH (white spot diseases or marine ich-Cryptocaryon)

The Life Cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans
• Free-swimming cells called tomites are released from a mature tomont, or encrusted cyst, and go in search of a host fish, typically dying in a day or two if one is not found.
• Upon finding a host the tomites attach to the gills or body and develop into parasitic trophonts, at which stage the organisms burrow into the fish and begin feeding on its tissues.
• Once well fed the trophonts stop feeding and encyst, at which stage they become inactive tomonts. These dormant cysts can remain trapped in the fish's mucus, be imbedded deep in the tissue, or drop off and fall to the bottom. Over a period of 6 to 10 days the cells inside the cysts reproduce by single-cell division, and become tomites. Once reaching maturity the cysts rupture, each releases hundreds of new free-swimming tomites, and the cycle begins again, but in much larger numbers.


My fish were very healthy to start and they continued to eat well during the ich out break, so enhancing their skin an body immune system slim may have been more effective in my case compared to starting with a very weaken sick fish.

This approach will take further study and trials to reach any positive conclusion, but right now I believe Vodka dosing to fight ich has potential merit in treating the problem and allowing treatment to be safely done in a reef tank.

I fully expect to see continued minor ich outbreaks on the fishes body as ich cycle continues to taper and die out. Hopefully this method of increasing bacterial normal body slime on the fish to allow it to more easily fight off the parasite will prove successful in treating ich and other parasites. I will update this report over the next few weeks.

Fish photos from day 1 and the last photo on day 5 are on my web site (the last photos posted). http://gallery.me.com/johnlaurenson#100393
 
Last edited:
After 6 days of Vodka dosing treatment.

Before:
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After:
enlarged.jpg
 
Do you attribute this to the treatment or the lifecycle of Ich, where it "appears" to come and go as the parasite is on the fish at times, and in the sand bed or rocks reproducing at other times?

I believe the increase in bacteria mucus from the fresh clean carbon source is the key to what is happening. I believe this increase is happening not only on the outside but on the inside and through out the gills also, where trophonts are attaching themselves. It is this internal breakout around the gills that does the fish in first, from what I have read. I think it's rapid growth from the carbon may indicate a large part of the mucus is highly bacteria in nature. I can only guess if this bacteria is also interfering with the Cryptocayon tomites production and ability to attach in some other manner.

The rapid bacteria growth through out the tank virtually happens in minutes when you add vodka. I can feel the new bacterial slim on the filter floss 20 minutes after I add the vodka dose. I believe the readily available carbon from the Vodka is allowing the fishes natural protection system react to the attack. Exactly what the increases mucus is doing to the Cryptocaryon tomites is open for conjecture.

The skimmer and the filter floss I use helps to clear out the water column. I would imagine the tomite might also get bound up in the heavy bacteria mucus in the floss and that grows through out the tank. The mucus may be acting like sticky fly paper and binding up the free-swimming tomite cells, making it easier to remove them with the skimmer and floss.

Again, I think I am seeing more than remission and a lull in the ich cycle. All three tangs skin just looks too healed, clean, and free of any hangers on from the ich.

But...the next few days will tell. Even if the ich does rehatch a new batch and blooms again, I think the effect will be much less because of the increased body mucus and the increased ability to fight off the ich. Right now it appears under control.

In the wild ich is always present waiting for the fishes weakness and inability to fight it off. The fish may just produce more body mucus in the wild.
 
It's been an interesting and educational few days.

Day 7- Fish look clean of any ich

Day 8- Of the three fish affected by the ich, purple tang, powder blue tang, and fox face; the fox face has had one small ich mark show up and the power blue has several small ich spots and is showing some body irritation in it’s movement by scratching against the live rock a few times . The purple tang shows no signs of ich. All three are eating and appear healthy, other than a couple of very tiny ich spots mentioned.

I decided to restart dosing Vodka, and to double my normal 1.5 ml / 10 g daily vodka dosage to add more free carbon to the water column. This will hopefully make more carbon available to the fishes body surface to increase mucus and address the minor reoccurrence. That is about 15 ml of vodka for my 50 g system; 15 ml is about a capful from the vodka bottle I use.

The three clowns have never shown any sign of infection during my ordeal. The mated pair appear very happy that I added the green bubble anemone that started this ich mess. (see attached)
DSC_5414.jpg


Day 9 What a shock I got this morning when the tank lights came on. As was commented on below, the ich returns. It became obvious this morning that ethanol dosing may not be killing ich tomonts as much as it is protecting the fish from them and forcing them to drop off of the fish.

I did lean one thing....free-swimming tomites that hatch are night time critters. My poor powder blue tang this morning looked as bad as the purple tang did the first day the ich first struck.

DSC_5438.jpg


The good news is the purple tang show no signs of re-infestation. The Foxface had a few new white spots. Hopefully that means the fish can build up some sort of immunity and fight off the cycle once they have been badly infested. Again, only time will tell.

The other good news is I got a very quick positive response from the powder blue when I decide to go back to the initial heavy dose of ethanol. Wthin in 4 hours the powder blue looked like this at 11:30 AM, after looking like above at 7:30 AM. I feel confident that all the white spots will be gone by this evening. I may not turn the lights off tonight if this is what those little bugger do in the dark.;) The ethanol dosing at any rate, light or heavy, has had no negative effects on any of the SPS coral or clams.
DSC_5517.jpg
 
Experimentation is good, but time to treat these poor fish. The alcohol treatments are acting like a FW dip. Temp treatment only.
Hypo or copper in QT and tank fallow for 2 months.
 
Experimentation is good, but time to treat these poor fish. The alcohol treatments are acting like a FW dip. Temp treatment only.
Hypo or copper in QT and tank fallow for 2 months.

I don't think you read the beginning of this thread. I am in total agreement with the use of a QT and tank fallow approach to solving an ich problem is the best solution. My problem is that in my show tank, it would very difficult to catch all the fish and not lose and/or break up a lot of SPS in the process. From strictly a cost of loss stand point I stand to lose far more in attempting to catch and remove all fish, than simply losing the fish...as hard and cold as that appears. I think many other with show tanks would find themselves in the same difficult position with the ich.

With that in mind, my effort was to look for a solution to treat the whole reef tank, knowing full well it is fraught with past failures and medical treatment products that don't work. Hopefully I can learn something in my efforts that can be passed on, even if it is nothing more than there is no way presently to treat ich in the whole tank, other than using a QT and to fallow the tank.
 
Have you ever thought of trying a trap?? I know that in my trials, it has always been very easy to not feed for a day and catch any of the more varacious eating fish (i.e. tangs, triggers, wrasse...). If you were in Washington, I would let you borrow mine to see if you could get it to work. Worth a try in my opinion.

Either way, good luck and I hope no fish dies in the end.

-augustus
 
Thanks for the advice. I have a fish trap I made and have used successfully in the past. The problem is since introducing SPS it is very difficult to install it into a very limited space in the front of the tank. With the tank being deep and round, nice for looks, but a pain in the butt to work inside.

The other issue is if I do not get all of the fish, the fallow process does not work. One fish left in the tank and the ich cycle continues, which makes all the effort to QT useless.
 
Day 10 Bad news, the Powder Blue died this morning from the ich in its gills.

Also, today I received in the mail a little bottle of NoSickFish I ordered a week ago. Time to change my approach. The vodka dosing seemed to make the tomonts drop off the fish within about eight hours, but they reappeared the next day. The ich doesn’t appear to be subsiding.

Day 11 I stopped dosing Vodka, stopped my skimmer, and removed the filter media as recommended by NoSickFish before using it’s product.

Let me start out, I have read all the snake oil comments and a few positive user comments about NoSickFish. One of the reasons Iam trying it is because testing has shown it to not negatively effect coral and some users feel it works. I am not a shill for NoSickFish....if it doesn’t work I will say so. Now with only the foxface that is having extensive white spot break out and I rapid breathing, even if it does improve, the test of NoSickFish is not very conclusive, seeing that only one fish that is still showing signs. The Purple Tang and the Clowns appear ich free, or at least ich resistant.

I started dosing NoSickFIsh twice a day. 3 drops in the morning and three in the evening.

Day 12 The large purple tang has not had any signs of ich white spots, but it has had a white film in it’s eyes. The white film has cleared and for the first time since the ich hit and it seems more active. The purple started swimming in wide sweeping movements from one side to the other as it normally did before the ich. I view that as a positive sign.

This morning the foxface tang has a half dozen white spots on it’s side and is still breathing rapidly.
DSC_5534.jpg


By late afternoon the tomonts have dropped off (that has happened before when dosing vodka so I won’t feel it a positive response unless they don’t show up again tomorrow).
DSC_5600.jpg


The clowns have not had any tomots white spots since this started, but one clown started developing a white film in one eye, much like the purple tang.. The white film appears to be clearing up.
DSC_5563.jpg
 
Off topic comments. Some times I wonder if fish have more intelligence than we give them credit for. I observed the purple tang all day siding up to the more dormant ich spot covered fox face and fanning him with is pectoral fins for several hours, almost like I’ve seen fish do over their eggs. It wasn’t an aggressive fighting stance. It actually appeared it was trying to nurse the sicker foxface....I know it sounds crazy, but it was interesting to watch. All the tomots white spots were gone when it was finished.
DSC_5582.jpg
 
Day 13 This the second full day of dosing NoSickFish. This morning the Foxface again had about a dozen tomots white spots that showed up overnight. By mid afternoon all the white spots were gone, which has become a consist happening with this fish. It is still breathing rapidly, which I take as a sign of ich in the gills. It does seen to be less stressed today and moving around the tank a lot more. I keep hoping the no ich will show up in the morning on it and the breathing rate will slow down.

I had forgotten to mention, I also have a fish I have had for about seven years in the tank, along with the mated clown pair, a Lawnmower Blenny. It has never shown any whites post, like the clownst; but it did have very fast labored breathing. The Blenny breathing rate is now back to normal...a good sign.

The SPS polyp extension is noticeably reduced. I am assuming they don’t like the effects of NoSickFish but are not being too adversely affected.

My tank measures very low on phosphate and nitrates, with no green algae growth anywhere. The dosing of NoSickFish changed that. I have one small clump of hair algae that has rapidly developed since I started dosing. I am assuming the product may have a phosphate constituent in it causing this.

In addition, I use a rather unique process to remove detritus off my bare bottom tank. I call it Fine Bubble Filtration, to simulate the periodic effects of tide and ocean waves on a reef. It is set on a controller to run only during daylight hours.

It uses a large 60 gpm recirculation pump that completely mixes the tank every two hours for a couple of minutes. It really stirs things up. While it is running I inject air for a minute, which cause the tank to fill up with fine bubble. The detritus and waste floating for a few minutes around the tank does a good job of feeding the SPS and other coral.

After 2 minutes the pump turns off and the fine bubbles float a significant amount of the waste to the top and over the overflow. This flows into a couple of bag filters in which I keep floss and add other filter media;ie; carbon, iron, etc. I replace the dirty floss every day or two to keep it from becoming a nitrate farm.

I have noticed since dosing NoSickFish there is now a significant soapy foam on the top of the tank when the Fine Bubble Filtration is run. This is another reason I feel NoSIckFish may contain in part a form of phosphate.
 
How big is this tank? If it's the 45g noted in that link, you could just lower the water level to a few inches & easily take out all the fish.

The fact you don't want to be bothered with doing things right or breaking a few corals to save these fish is the only learning experience anyone can get from this thread.
 

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