preventimg ich

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

joe kirner

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2011
Messages
17
Location
Ferndale Washington
i recently eradicated ich from my 150 gallon tank by doing what i learned hear from posting qustions now i have another one. now that the ich is gone through leaving tank empty for 40 days and quaranting all new fish with coppper before addiing to tank i never want it back again my lfs insists that all tanks have ich in them i dissagree. given that statment from my only lfs how do i ensure that whene adding invertd i dont give my tank ich i know inverts dont get ich but logic tells me the water that ther transported in coud have ich in it what is the solution . iwould like to add a couple enenomes and various crab and snails thank you for input ps sorry about my spelling i suck at spelling that dosent scare me pouluting my tank does
 
It is called " drip acclamation" where over a period of say 1-2 hours you are slowly removing their water and replacing it with your water. Therefore you are never adding their water to your tank :)
 
The only way you can guarantee not having the ich is QT everything you put in your tank for a minimum 8 weeks. That means, rock, sand, inverts, everything. Drip acclimation over a long period of time is probably a good way of making sure that no infected system water gets in but not fail safe. That said I do the same thing nanareefer mentioned and its a risk that I take. For fish it's 8 weeks QT. The one thing that concerns me is that you were only fallow on the display for 40 days, so there is a chance that you still have ich in your system since the life cycle is at least 8 weeks.
 
Joe,

Actually, 40 days is not enough to kill the ich parasite..Your tank would need to be fallow (fishless) for a minimum of 8 wks. (see #10 under Treatments):

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/f15/marine-ich-myths-facts-27003/


As far as inverts are concerns, you QT them as you would any other fish..a minimum of 6-8 wks before they see the main tank.

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/f15/quarantine-process-27022/

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/f15/curing-fish-marine-ich-50933/

HTH
Kirk
 
No. The drip method consists of 2 part removing old water via drip while at the same time adding new water via drip. Eventually replacing all old water with your tank water. Acclimating your fish to your water slowly.
 
along with what nana is saying, after you acclimate use a net to get the inverts in the tank dont just dump water in.

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2.
 
QT, QT, QT.... and drip acclimate plus add the fish and inverts in dry with a net. The reason for the QT is not only Ich but any other parasites or diseases the fish may have. This gives you time to see anyhting that may come up befor you add him to you main DT.
 
If my lfs insists that all tanks have ich in them I would find aother lfs. It may be road trip time, there are a lot of great lfs south of you and well worth the time to drive down. I drive over from Wenatchee just for the healthly fish, inverts, and corals.
 
there is a chance just in the inverts brining it in, if you don't qt them. but if the tank has not seen any ich and no addition to the tank has been made for 8weeks then there is no ich.

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2.
 
Anything "wet" can carry Marine Ich. Not only dump all the store's water and perform drip acclimation, but a good rinse with your tank water shaking well can help. It is not the invert, but the rock, shell, etc that might hold a cyst or two. After all that, best to keep the purchase quarantined for as long as you are willing to (up to 2 months) The longer the safer. The Ich needs fish to feed on and with no fish, they will starve.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top