Removing center brace on 46 bowfront

[vinny2261]

No, I am not saying to euro brace all the way around the tank.. Just replace the plastic piece with a glass piece. When you remove the plastic piece you can leave a couple of inches on either side. Silicon the piece to the front and back. The extra pieces of the brace should also silicon to the new glass brace. All though the light would still set over the brace the glass will allow the light to pass into the tank. If you are still not understanding what I am trying to describe PM me and I will see if I can send you a picture

 

[roscoe]

I believe that the glass probably wouldn't break, but a lot of stress would be put on the glass, as well as the silicone seals. Failure of those seals would be my biggest concern.
Although, I do admit, the breakage of glass would also suck!!!

Roscoe, I could be wrong, but I believe the glass pieces are glued together and then silicone is used to seal the seams. I don't believe the silicone is the actual bonding agent. Could be wrong.

Oh Ok. Reason I ask is that a couple custom tank manufactures I got quotes from always aked if I want the tank put togther using clear or black silicone.

 

[returnofsid]

Yeah, That is a valid question. Both types of silicone are used, but it's only a difference in how the tank looks. I highly doubt that the silicone is the bonding agent that actually holds the glass panes together.

 

[vinny2261]

I think there was another thread on this site that explained the differeces in the silicone.. The black is stronger and bonds better. The aquariums are held together by silcone not glue. If you wanted you can run a razor between the panes and cut your aquarium into the individual glass panes that the maker started with.

 

[MC Lighting]

the problem is whether you can get the silicone or adhesive to bond to the glass and the plexi that seems to be a hard thing to do. if it were me I would consider machining a piece of plexi that had a notch for the front and back so it is a mechanical connection as well as silicone it, the problem with this is that you would not be able to put the lid on afterwords. I think the tanks are just put together btw with silicone no glue per say.

 

[vinny2261]

I have seen glass center braces on large tanks, 135, 150.. I would suggest at least 4" wide and about twice as thick as the aquarium glass..

 

[returnofsid]

The plastic brace that's there now is only about 1 1/2" and glass or acrylic would be much stronger than that thin plastic. If I used a 2" piece of 1/4" acrylic and screwed it, it would be plenty strong. I would cut the existing brace out, leaving about 2" of it in front and back. The new acrylic piece would be screwed to these existing pieces, using nylon screws.

As for Mike's idea, an acrylic brace that's shaped to fit over the lip of the tank would be fine, as long as I can make it look nice. I don't have to worry about any lid fitting afterwards, as my tanks are all open top.

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

Wouldn't it just be easier to buy a fixture that has two lamps, left and right, instead of just one in the center?

I've got a 46g bowfront too... I would never even dream of removing that brace.

 

[Blazer88]

I removed the center brace on my 65G and replaced it with a piece of acrylic and weld-on #16. Held for years without any issues.

 

[returnofsid]

Kurt, that might be easier, but much more expensive...lol. I'm buying a used fixture for a great price. It won't always be on the 46. I'll probably, eventually, use it for a frag tank.

 

[burning2nd]

agreed... do not remove it...

they are not there for observation

 

[returnofsid]

Burning, are you suggesting that I shouldn't remove it, or shouldn't even replace it with clear acrylic?

 

[burning2nd]

I would NOT remove it...
Im trying to think of comparison to this...

something like
remove the collums in your basement of the rafters above the ceiling but i cantfigure it out...

i can simply put it this way...
IF they didnt need it... the manufacture would not place it there.... it would be "non valve adding" thus being a waste of the manufactures money.

if they where worryed that it might brake and they might have problems with customers
well then thats another story....

OH OH oH i got...

safety ratings...... now kids don't try this at home.
for instence.. car lifts. bridges and cranes
all rated for Half of what the will fail at....
protection from stupidity really...

when its all said and done.. your gonna have several Grand invested... and one stubborn move as "i wish this wasnt here" could cost you somewhere in the 20-50g range.

the tank brakes water thur the floor, ceiling, carpet who knows i could go on for ever....
i would maybe look for a tank that just didnt come with it... insted of removeing it..

(edit)
if this is for lighting i wouldnt worry...
if you where gonna brace it then cut it off i would like that more... but i dont like ither..

 

[returnofsid]

My only concern is the amount of light that WON'T get into the tank due to the center brace being directly under the bulb. Replacing with clear acrylic will allow that lighting through. I guess it'll have to wait until I try the fixture on the tank and see how it works out.

 

[spllbnd2]

Just an FYI for anyone, all the aquariums made of glass are only siliconed not glued then siliconed. If you ever reseal an aquarium you'll find this to be true of almost all of the glass aquarium manufatures these days.

Cheers,
Alex