ro/di question

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brady816

brady816

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BTW: I think I would buy it off e-bay. The same one up on E-bay as a buy it now price of 99.00 but the same one from their on-line store is 189.00..
 
Pay attention to the micron size on your filters, folks. That's what you're paying for, the filters. I use a Spectra-Pure myself, because I believe starting out with the best water possible is mandatory for a healthy reef. I also believe the Spectra-Pure will cost less in the long run, because you won't burn through as much DI media, since it won't be picking up all the slack for the lacking system upstream. Most of the FilterGuys stuff comes with a 5 micron sediment filter, and a coconut carbon filter. 5 microns is pathetic, and coconut carbon is known as the least effective GAC out there. Your sediment filter and carbon will save the life of the expensive part of the filter, the RO membrane. They catch all the crud before the RO is forced to. As a point of reference, my Spectra-Pure has a 0.5 micron (that means the 5 micron is letting 10x as much crud by) sediment, and the same on the carbon.

Not all systems are the same, though the housings generally are. A plastic tube is a plastic tube. The higher end systems have better filtration within the plain ol' plastic tubes.
 
Sherman said:
Pay attention to the micron size on your filters, folks. That's what you're paying for, the filters. I use a Spectra-Pure myself, because I believe starting out with the best water possible is mandatory for a healthy reef. I also believe the Spectra-Pure will cost less in the long run, because you won't burn through as much DI media, since it won't be picking up all the slack for the lacking system upstream. Most of the FilterGuys stuff comes with a 5 micron sediment filter, and a coconut carbon filter. 5 microns is pathetic, and coconut carbon is known as the least effective GAC out there. Your sediment filter and carbon will save the life of the expensive part of the filter, the RO membrane. They catch all the crud before the RO is forced to. As a point of reference, my Spectra-Pure has a 0.5 micron (that means the 5 micron is letting 10x as much crud by) sediment, and the same on the carbon.

Not all systems are the same, though the housings generally are. A plastic tube is a plastic tube. The higher end systems have better filtration within the plain ol' plastic tubes.
Click to expand...


The membranes are the only thing I would be concerned with. Get a 98% membrane and you have a 98% membrane. 98% is as food as it gets. The filters are the cheap part and can be upgraded on any system. Even throwing away the filters on a elcheapo as long as it come with a 98% membrane will net you the same water quality and longevity. I do think SP makes a nice unit but is entirely overpriced. You can get a elcheapo and upgrade it and have plenty of money left over for something else you may need.
0 tds is 0 tds. so if you get a decent elcheapo with a 98% membrane and run it until the cheap prefilters plug then replace them with better ones when the time comes you will be money ahead and have exactly the same filtering abilities and money in you pocket. No hype no advertising no brand prefference just the plain truth.

Don
 
I'm not just trying to stir the pot, but how can you make a claim like the one above? "No doubt the best... product." (I'm not arguing service, I'm sure they're great). How do you call that the best product? I just looked at their site, and see every piece of filtration in their RO/DI setups to be inferior to what I'm already using.

Also, Don, I completely understand where you're coming from, and agree with most of it. I agree any of these systems are going to give you 0 tds, as well. That's what the DI is for, to catch what makes it through the rest of the system. I just come from the train of thought that the higher end (or more expensive, however you prefer) will last longer, and that the cost difference will be less dramatic than the length of life difference. That means, to me, I'll use a LOT less media in the long run, and will therefore spend less, as well.
 
Sherman said:
Also, Don, I completely understand where you're coming from, and agree with most of it. I agree any of these systems are going to give you 0 tds, as well. That's what the DI is for, to catch what makes it through the rest of the system. I just come from the train of thought that the higher end (or more expensive, however you prefer) will last longer, and that the cost difference will be less dramatic than the length of life difference. That means, to me, I'll use a LOT less media in the long run, and will therefore spend less, as well.
Click to expand...


I can buy a water general system with a dowfilmtec 98% membrane install SP high volume sediment filters and have exactly the same filtering capacity without the price and the fancy sticker. I save money in the initial purchase and if SP's information is accurate save just as much as the guy with the SP sticker in media and filters.
I think when something is marketed to this hobby the profit margin goes up and there is always a way to save $ without sacraficing.

Cant really comment on buring's comment. Rodi systems are pretty straight forward and the numbers dont lie. Both companies assemble a good product both have their ups and downs.

Don
 
because i beleave that when you buy something from someone.... (and the key is someone not a HUGE CO.)

when you call that small Biz and you get the dude who made the setup for you.... or is in the middle of makeing someones else.... thats service.

someone what goes outta there way to make sure you cant even think about saying something not 100% completely posstive..

you know how meny times ive read threads about people asking how do i install this.... is this supost to be like that. i think this is broke......

do it nice or do it twice....
 
The plastic canisters, fittings are basically all the same, from what I've seen, will last as long as any I've ever seen, the money is in the filters themselves, I find the super fine .5 micron carbon blocks stop up very fast, why I'm always changing them I guess because when pressure drops to around 45psi production is horrible even though I still read "0" TDS, so that is the first filter replaced. I'm thinking of getting a GAC filter addition to a carbon block of larger micron, the combination adds to the clorimine removal, which most city water systems have plenty of. Now will this larger dual carbon shorten the life of the membrane? Not sure on that part but If done right I think you can produce more water & actually replace less filters. I use a 1 micron pre filter, floss whatever & even though it is before the carbon it will go twice as long before it needs replacing. Guess a little Blah blah on my part LOL again the basic parts IMO is very closely the same, the filter are IMO the bread & butter, also you can always add to improve on your system later.
 
Scooterman said:
The plastic canisters, fittings are basically all the same, from what I've seen, will last as long as any I've ever seen, the money is in the filters themselves, I find the super fine .5 micron carbon blocks stop up very fast, why I'm always changing them I guess because when pressure drops to around 45psi production is horrible even though I still read "0" TDS, so that is the first filter replaced. I'm thinking of getting a GAC filter addition to a carbon block of larger micron, the combination adds to the clorimine removal, which most city water systems have plenty of. Now will this larger dual carbon shorten the life of the membrane? Not sure on that part but If done right I think you can produce more water & actually replace less filters. I use a 1 micron pre filter, floss whatever & even though it is before the carbon it will go twice as long before it needs replacing. Guess a little Blah blah on my part LOL again the basic parts IMO is very closely the same, the filter are IMO the bread & butter, also you can always add to improve on your system later.
Click to expand...

Those are good points. You really cant just throw in the lowest micron filters and believe you have the best and are saving money. There is a place for the higher micron filters especially if you have lousy water or a well. Scooty the second gac will keep the chloramine gone once the first is saturated. The chloramine getting past the carbon block to the membrane will kill it pretty quick so the second gac is a good safegaurd.

Don
 
Well now I have a question. I have read all the "above" posts and have a product I believe to be the exact same as the filter guys with a different sticker. The sticker on mine says dvoneb aqua reverse osmosis water purification system.......5 stage....looks EXACTLY the same. What do you consider "crappy" water. I have city water and the TDS reads 276 ppm before filtering....most of this is alk. (minerals). If I'm making 50 gallons of water a week how long can I expect the filters to last? Where do you buy better replacement filters? Thanks.
 
You should get 6 months to a year out of the prefilter and charcoal filter and a couple years out of the membrane, the di resin might have to be replaced a little more often. Where, filters direct, filter guys ect. When you test your ro/di water for tds and you start to see an increase you start by changing the resin.
 
My 2 cents...

Here in Virginia Beach we have a local company that sets up a DI unit at your house, call in for monthly meter readings, and the cost is a flat 13 cents a gallon - no equipment rental. They change the media when indicated depending on your usage. Works GREAT, LFS use it, yada yada yada. My son, in PHX, got an ro/di unit and the TDS is so high in his area it eats right through the media - it's cheaper to buy the water from a local water shop. It's a PITA to drag jugs back and forth for his 300 and his 90, but that's the price he pays to be in the hobby in PHX. So -it just depends what part of the country you are in. If you have a very high TDS, my be considerably less to buy your water - something to consider before making the investment and find out it costs an arm and a leg to use the unit after the fact.

There are some threads on using just the DI portion of an RO/DI unit so you don't have the wasted water.
 
Thanks. I test my TDS when I first start the "filter" and when it's near completion. It's always the same, so I guess I'm OK for a while.
 
this is going to sound dumb probably would it be ok to get just the 3 stage and do with out the forth stage??? I can get a spectra pure 3 stage for 100 bucks.. I will just be using this for ro water
 
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