RODI system

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dannyd

Active member
Joined
Oct 23, 2004
Messages
42
Location
Mammoth Cave, KY
Hey guys does any one out there know anything about these Reverse osmosis systems? I have just purchased and received a 6 stage RoDi system and my pressure stinks. I have heard that you have to have some sort of pump or something to help on the pressure. Does anybody out there know what i am talking about? Need help badly.
 
Pressure stinks as far as the output or the input?

First thing I would do is to check the temperature of your input water and see what that is. Also you can get a pressure gauge and check the pressure on your tap water and that'll help you determine if you need a pump or not.

I increased the temperature of my input water from 58 degrees to 75 degrees and my RO water tripled in output.
 
What should the output pressure be? I do not have even enough pressure to fill up my 4 gallon storage tank that came with this unit.
 
I think for most units you need a pressure of at least 40 psi or so for them to work well. If you are not getting this, then you might need to consider a booster pump in front of your unit. As someone else pointed out, temperature is a big factor also. Too hot or too cold is not good. Around room temperature is best. If you have decent water pressure and reasonable temp and you are still not getting good output then you may have a defective or poorly adjusted splitter valve downstream of the RO unit. These should be adjusted so that you get about a 1:4 output/wastwater ratio when temp and pressure are where then need to be.

Sincerely...Collin
 
Where can you get a booster pump? I connected my line downstairs in the basement next to the hot water heater room temp is around 67 to 68 degrees usually. I connected it to the cold water line that went to our utility room down stairs. How much water comes out of the fill line on the Ro unit itself? Right now it is a slow trickle.
 
Its possible that you are right but it sure is slow it takes about 2-3 minutes to fill up a 20oz coke bottle out of the faucet that I bought with it.
 
Here is some info on temperature and pressure:

Do I need a pressure gauge?

The gauge that comes with some RO units measures the pressure on the input side of the membrane (or on the waste side, before the flow restrictor, which will give the same reading). This allows you to tell if there is adequate line pressure and if the sediment & carbon stages are getting clogged. Optimum input pressure is in the 60-80 PSI range. Below about 40 PSI the unit will operate less efficiently. The units are typically not rated to operate above 80-90 PSI.


Do I care about temperature?

The GPD ratings are for room temperature (~70 ° F). Colder water travels more slowly through the membrane, which reduces the output.
 
I dont know Steve If I want to call you or not! I might have to get you to look at this stupid thing when I get the rest of my equipment in. By the way I went to the store and bought the queen angel and my lights that I ordered from cool touch are on the way here. My 240 gallon aquarium should be in next week from tenecor. Everything is coming together now if I can just get this stupid ro unit to work. Maybe it just needs a little kick in *** to get it going.
 
What GPH is your system rated for?
I have almost 80PSI going into the unit, when it drops below 40PSI it takes forever to produce water. I have to then replace the .5 Micron carbon filter & then it is up to the normal pressure. If you're using a 1 Micron pre-filters then you can get away with less pressure. It does take time to let the membrane soak up before your unit will produce water like it should.
 
Its all good Danny. Glad you got that Queen. That was one sweet fish. If you want to call I will be glad to tell you what I know. Steve
 
Hey Danny what length did you run the 1/4" feed line from water source to the RO? Even if you have 80 psi at the source your presure will drop significantly when your RO kicks in. If that is what is happening by checking your pressure gauge at the RO unit then you need to upsize the line to 1/2" from water tap to the RO unit. I ran a dedicated 1/2 copper line to my 60gpd unit and now it hits that mark easy.
 
Yes I ran the stock 1/4" line to the unit the pamplet that came with the system says to run it at 100psi that is what they rated it as.
 
goby2004 said:
Even if you have 80 psi at the source your presure will drop significantly when your RO kicks in. If that is what is happening by checking your pressure gauge at the RO unit then you need to upsize the line to 1/2" from water tap to the RO unit. I ran a dedicated 1/2 copper line to my 60gpd unit and now it hits that mark easy.
True and not so true, you will drop pressure going to a larger size, increase volume, also lots has to do with the orifice used & the rated unit, along with pressure, and temperature. It isn't necessary to have a dedicated line for water unless your using that line constantly or the line itself is already restricted.
 
Danny - before you go to the expense of buying a pump, do a couple of checks first. With pressure and temperature being the two primary factors affecting RO unit production, start here:

1. What is the water pressure at your unit? If you don't know, consider installing a pressure gauge kit.

2. Run some cold water from your tap into a cup and check its temp with a thermometer.

3. What is the rated capacity of your membrane in gallons per day? How much is it actually producing?

4. What is your waste to permeate ratio?

Blue
 
Thanks Blue, hes already got the pump. The ro unit is in his basement and he lives way out in the country up on a hill. There is very low water pressure to the basement. Not gauged just tell by looking at the flow in the house. Hes supposed to get the big line from lowes today, and hook up the pump. I have not brought my tds meter over to his house yet but will. Its rated to 100 gpd. Its producing about 30 per day. Have not actually measured waste to good ratio. Can do when I go back. Here in Bowling Green I have a 100 gpd unit with great water pressure and it will make all the water I can use. Where he lives it does'nt. Thanks. Steve
 
I have hooked up the pump and still not very much pressure coming out of the shut off valve. Let me ask you something if all you need to take out is the chlorine then do you really need to have the reverse osmosis element in the rodi unit or just use the carbon to do the job and by pass the reverse osmosis?
 
Actually that isn't all you need to remove, the filtration will remove harmful metals, phosphates, & tons of other contaminates, it is in the best interest of any reefer, although you can get by without for a while, you will eventually have major problems. If you do have really high quality water, in few cases these days, you may get away with minimal filtration but you will need to have your water tested, you may be able to access you local facility for data sheets on their testing & the quality of their testing.

 

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