Saltwater Newbie in New Mexico

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Scatterheart

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
18
Location
New Mexico

Howdy!! My name is Amber and I hail from Alamogordo, New Mexico. New to the hobby, and being out in the desert makes it much more difficult. I have one LFS in my town, and although they have been able to help a lot, they lack in supplies and livestock, leaving me to have to scramble or to have things shipped. For example, needed salt mix last week, went in, wasn't even acknowledged and ended up at Pet Sense... This is the first forum I have joined in hopes of getting some help and advice. I LOVE this hobby and my fish VERY much. My biggest concern, besides keeping them Happy and Healthy also includes not depleting the ocean to keep me happy. My tank started off with a friend of mine with a 100gal that she was draining and going to turn into a terrarium. She gave me 2 tank raised Occilaris Clown fish, two serpent starfish and a hand full of snails. She gave me a 20 gal quarantine tank, that I set up as a main tank. I have made Every mistake a newbie can make in the first year and then some, so please bear with me, as some of the most seasoned hobbyists will cringe as I tell my story. Let's just say that I had a twenty gallon tank, and all the accessories for the 100gal. The light situation and filter thing were funny at first. I got a light and the right size power filter. My water and substrate came from the original tank and as soon as the water settled, I put in my livestock. I would like to say that I have not lost one of my original inhabitants. My clients have doubled in size and are beautiful and fun. My starfish are also both twice as big and awesome. I have this problem with going to the only LFS store and because their stick is So low, wanting to Save the lonely fish in the Large tanks. ( at this time, I didn't understand quarantine procedures or bio load, again forgive me). The first fish I saved was a teeny azure damsel, which I was told would be a hardy addition. Later I had some issue(I think it was aphasia) and was told a wrasse would be a good way to get rid of it(turns out that I got a Mcoskers Flasher Wrasse and only paid $16 for him, whoa, also did not know that the tank was too small for him). Finally fish wise, even knowing that 2 colonies of the same should be max in a tank as small as mine, I went to my LFS one last time. I had seen a Teeny less that 3/4in Occilaris in a 200gal tank, alone. He had been there for months and I felt the need to save him. Now is where things get a Bit more tricky. My flasher was a bully, and I had concerns about returning him, but I had not been using the best water, uh hem, tap(feeling the mental flogging here) and has quite an Algae issue. I placed my first Liveaquaria order. Again, I had no idea about bio load and still wonder how many additions, inverts or fish, you should add at once. Obviously shipping is ungodly expensive and I figured more is better. I learned, don't worry. I ordered a Beautiful Sail Fin Blenny, 6 differing hermit crabs 5 Astea(sp) snails, one cleaner shrimp, one peppermint shrimp and an emerald crab. Believe it or not, yes this was in the 20 gal tank. And again, believe it or not, Everything acclimated beautifully and settled in nicely(except my eraser, who was still very much an ass). Now, what happened next was Truly a blessing in disguise, with in a Week of adding that gigantic bio load, my tank failed. Leak at the bottom side. Again tried my LFS to no avail. I ended up at a store I boycott, and bought a 29 gal at Wal-Mart. It is a great tank though, and I do like the led lighted lid it came with. However I am still using my own bio wheel and heater, instead of what it came with. So, at this point I really was afraid of losses, and still never had any. The 29 went up like a champ, and by late evening my critters were back in and settling. I would say it was three weeks later that I started to Worry about the fish, was researching Deeply into marine ich and velvet, still am not sure what Happened exactly, but I understood that IF they were sick, I didn' t have a quarantine, and that I would have to treat the display tank. I used Ich X, not the full regimen, because I had losses in between. I could have killed my own fish, but I am almost positive the eraser was the main culprit. By the end of the fiasco, I had lost the damsel,the eraser and my beautiful Blenny. My most delicate inverts find' t seem fazed, but after the losses I ended treatment, made a significant water change and put the Seachem bag I use back in the filter box. I lost the peppermint shrimp somewhere along the line after the treatment and think he made an expensive crab or starfish meal. My cleaner shrimp has mooted multiple times and is big and Lovely. My clowns All get along and play normally, even though I have three. Ties of this week, I was frightened out of my skin to see two emerald crabs where I had only had one before. He left me a beautiful Molt and was twice his original size. I couldn't wait for him to come out and I could see his shiny new claws. To my absolute dismay, I found him dead less than 24hours after his molt. That was yesterday. Everyone else, including all inverts seem healthy and fine, could this have been a fluke death, or did I kill him? My 29 gal has been up over a month now and I have had no major algae issues, a little bit of clear stringy algae at most. I know that my 20 was Overstocked, could lack of oxygen have been a culprit with too many fish? When adding critters, how many at a time? I would really like to replace my emerald and peppermint shrimp, but Don' t want to experience a loss or over stock. Am I at a point where I should see how my clowns do and keep them as the only fish? I really needed to unload all of this and hope any of you can give any advice on what Happened, but especially for future reference and to not repeat same mistakes I also have been unsure of Alkalinity, phosphates, and copper because I do not have those tests, is it necessary for tank with no corals? I also have been reading about skimmers, and wondered more about why having one is best. My tank Parameters as of Monday after a 6 gal water change were temp 78
PH 8.2, ish
Nitrate about 10 ppm
Nitrite and Ammonia 0
I have a Bio Wheel setup with Seachem Purigen media. I have one Koralia mini, and one Koralia 550 for flow, two marineland led bubble wands and an airstone in the tank. I also have three, bigger than and about fist size, pieces of live rock and coral substrate.

I just want to thank you all in advance for Any and all help :)

 
Welcome to the forum! it sounds like you have had a rough introduction to the saltwater world. I had a rough experience with a beautiful Lion fish I introduced to my tank too early (I was thinking it would be the same as my fresh water tank)... as for your water all of your parameters they all look good Nitrate should be as close to zero as possible but fish only can live in the range of 10-40ppm. also, do you test your Ammonia levels? that is one of the other basic tests for the fish only tanks. I personally have a FOWLR (fish only with live rock) tank currently and have never monitored alkalinity, phosphates or copper. those tests are more aimed at raising invertebrates in a reef tank.

first question would be how often are you doing water changes and how much water are you changing each time.
(this is another lesson I almost had to learn the hard way. I make it a point to change water every 2 or 3 weeks in my smaller tank (60g).

I wish you the best of luck and hopefully your tank gets back in order. I'm sure there are many more qualified people on this forum who will give you some great advice. they have been great and very supportive to me.

good luck!
 
Oh yes, I test ammonia, and zero there as well. I have inverts and so I will probably need to invest in a reef master test kit, it sounds like. I change my water weekly, 3 gal, or every other week,and I will do 6 gal. Thanks for replying :)
 
The reef master test kit your thinking about isnt to bad a kit. I use mine from time to time. But i spent the few extra dollars and use a better kit. Also, if i remember right, its not recommended to use a biowheel with saltwater tanks. As for treating your tank for ick, from what i read in lees threads, theres nothing thats reef/invertibrate safe. Cant wait to see some pictures of your setup regardless! Welcome to the site!!!
 
i believe the ich x was responsible for the death of the inverts copper kills all. bio wheels are adding to the nitrates. i have a 20g coral tank and all i use is carbon/gfo in a bag and a skimmer. powerheads to break the surface of the water and the tunze reefpack 250 skimmer and filter pulls from the top by overflow aswell.

SAM_4135.jpg

SAM_4149.jpg


filter the carbon/gfo mix goes into

SAM_4138.jpg


skimmer

SAM_4136.jpg
 
I only lost one shrimp throughout all the crap I went through with the Ich X, however, I lost three fish. How come the bio wheel isn't really recommended for salt water? It is a Marineland Penguin Bio wheel 500. Is a canister filter better? Thank you for the pictures! I am having a hard time understanding the skimmer thing. Do they need a separate motor to run? Would it be easier to help if I had a few pictures?
 
admittedly, I still have no idea if I had ich or velvet. I possibly treated the tank unnecessarily. :/ As said, I have made newbie mistakes, and my LFS... May not be helping me as much as I hoped. How does a bio wheel add to nitrate? I was told that carbon itself might be moving out of the industry and linked to lateral line disease. I was recommended to try the purigen in place of carbon filter, and I do like the washable, reusable bag. I appreciate everyone's input :)
 
Hi Scatterheart, welcome to RF and hang in there. You are not the first aquarist to struggle with the start up of a new tank.
With a fish only tank you can lower the salinity as low as .019 conservatively, ( I've even gone lower) to discourage ich. I used to maintenance saltwater aquariums for a LFS and that helps a lot. Also I always run carbon but I rinse all the dust off it (which I too heard can contribute to lateral line).
I personally have used bio wheel pumps in fish only tanks with no problems at all. Canister filters can be a little intimidated at first, worrying about leakage and such.
Make all changes slow and be patient and everything will settle down.
 
Is a bio wheel not recommended for inverts then? I read so much, and am told so much, that it is really hard to sort through it all. Thanks for your input. I do have a canister that came with the tank I bought(it was purchased at Wal-Mart and I think it is a Tetra brand), but didn't think it was better than what I had, even though I probably have no clue. lol
 
Hey, you got a pic on way faster than I did, it took me almost a week.
IMO a bio wheel isn't totally out of the question for corals, its just that a sump tank and protein skimmer are a better more efficient way to filter a tank with corals (which are much more sensitive to nitrates and high nutrients) than fish, shrimp, crabs and such.
Live rock will aid in filtration as well. The beneficial bacteria that inhabit the rock break down wastes and don't allow toxic ammonia to build up. Your decor will house those same bacteria but if you clean them with bleach water that kills all the beneficial properties that have grown there. I didn't like to bleach but if customers insisted on it I chose only a portion of the decor to do. Then 4-6 months later I'd choose different decor to bleach. Also when bleaching be extremely careful to very very thoroughly rinse until you can't smell the bleach. Some folks even leave the decor out of the tank overnight to evaporate any residual bleach away.
Sorry, I'm getting into things you didn't ask about. I'll try to stay on subject.
 
Amber first off, a BIG :welcome: to Reef Frontiers and with a little help/advice you will be just fine in maintaning a healthy lil FOWLR or easy Reeftank whichever you decide. Two things I see that would be very beneficial would be #1 to add in maybe 10lbs of a fine live sand to fill in the course substrate as this will not allow so much detritus to collect there. #2 add or replace some of the decorations with some hand-selected (attractive) pieces of Live Rock as this will be your most effective biological filtration to your system and also may add some interesting ivertibrates and macro algaes. With a little time you can certainly add another small fish or two and even easy corals such as Kenya Trees, Xenia and Leather corals. These corals are not only fairly easy to keep they add to your biological filtration by consuming Nitrates and Phoshates, add interest and bio-diversity. Keep us posted and feel free to ask any questions that you feel to be important.

Cheers, Todd
 
Yes! Definately read the above links! Has helped me tremendously with the fish from my wifes tank! Theyre currently swimming around in a 55g in hyposalinity. Doing great and been spot free for a week! 7 more weeks to go, but worth the effort! I love the picture of the star, looks like a cobra head with red eyes and tentacles coming from it. Almost like a crazy cobra medusa...lol.
 
Oh thank you all for the info!! I have read those articles and will 're read them! I was at the library today and looked for the book, but I will have to order it. Your responses have all been helpful and I appreciate the time taken to do so. I was thinking about water today and wondered what is the difference between Ro and distilled water? Which is the best for aquariums and why? When I first started, I didn't understand that you had to use good water and started with tap. Obviously learned from that lesson, but still not sure between the ro and distilled.
 
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