dangal
Well-known member
How do you go about getting scratches out of acrylic tanks?
scatches in the tank
- Thread starter dangal
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JPG@CFI
Precision Fabricator
It depends on if they are on the inside, or outside. If they are on the inside, I have found that micromesh products work very well with the water in. I'd start at 6000, then see how that works. Finish at 12000.
If it is on the outside, then the novus system works well, if you don't have the specialized power equipment. Say hello to tennis elbow! Feel free to contact me for any further instructions.
Jason
CFI
worldclassaquariums.com
If it is on the outside, then the novus system works well, if you don't have the specialized power equipment. Say hello to tennis elbow! Feel free to contact me for any further instructions.
Jason
CFI
worldclassaquariums.com
dangal
Well-known member
Inside.......thanks I will look then up. ty
ldrhawke
John
This is an approach I took several years ago to clean up scratches inside the tank. You need the fine micromess paper as mentioned by others. The tape is the metal tape used for AC duct work. A lot of elbow grease is needed. Good luck 
KRMNAL1
Well-known member
JPG@CFI said:
Jason, where can I buy these materials for "inside scratches" ?? I live in Monroe and work in Seattle. I bought a used 55 and I can't think of a better punishment for my kids than to polish scratches out of the tank :evil: :evil:
ldrhawke
John
I'm not Jason but I'll respond from my files. The sheets aren't cheap. These are some of the best prices I found for full sheets. http://www.elitefin.com/Micro_Mesh.asp?number=30
Teenage Directions: For WAX ON....WAX OFF
VERY FINE SCRATCHES: Begin with either Micro-Mesh 4000 or 6000
HAIRLINE SCRATCHES/LIGHT SCUFFS: Begin with Micro-Mesh 2400 or 3200
FINE SCRATCHES: Begin with either Micro-Mesh 1800 or 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper
DEEP SCRATCHES (can be felt with fingernail): Begin with 320 wet/dry sandpaper
GROOVES: Begin with120 or 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper
When changing abrasive grades be sure to change sanding directions 90º (North and South with one grade, switching to East and West with the next grade)
THE REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Wrap the suggested abrasive around the foam block. Carefully work the damaged area using a straight-line motion. DO NOT USE A CIRCULAR MOTION. Keep firm pressure on the block. Keep sanding material and surface free of dust and contamination. Do not try to remove one scratch at a time. Spread the sanding pattern 4-6 inches with each step. Single point damage like cigarette burns, nicks or cuts must not be spot sanded. Distortion with result.
2. All damage must be removed in the first step. Evaluate your efforts after 2-3 minutes. If removal rate seems slow, move to next coarser grit. Evaluate this coarser grade and move coarser if necessary. Remember, the heavier the scratches you put into the surface, the more time and steps it will take to remove them.
3. When the damage is removed, move to the next finer grade until you have finished with the 400 grit wet/dry.
When damage is removed, your surface should have a uniform scratch pattern running in one direction. If you started with common wet/dry sandpaper, begin with the abrasives in your kit after the surface has been reduced to a 400 grit scratch pattern. If your damage was slight and you started the procedure with the kit abrasives, simply continue through the grades of Micro-Mesh.
THE RESTORAL PROCEDURE
1. Wrap the 1800 around the foam block. Carefully work the damaged area using a straight-line motion. DO NOT USE A CIRCULAR MOTION. Continue until all damage is removed. If you have previously removed severe damage (see Damage Removal) using sandpaper, continue working until that 400 grit pattern is removed.
2. Wrap 2400 around the foam block and continue, this time crossing (+) your 1800 scratch pattern. Make sure that you remove all the 1800 scratch pattern before going on to Step 3.
3. Wrap 3200 around foam block, change your motion to cross the 2400 scratch pattern and continue as outlined in Step 1.
.
Teenage Directions: For WAX ON....WAX OFF
VERY FINE SCRATCHES: Begin with either Micro-Mesh 4000 or 6000
HAIRLINE SCRATCHES/LIGHT SCUFFS: Begin with Micro-Mesh 2400 or 3200
FINE SCRATCHES: Begin with either Micro-Mesh 1800 or 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper
DEEP SCRATCHES (can be felt with fingernail): Begin with 320 wet/dry sandpaper
GROOVES: Begin with120 or 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper
When changing abrasive grades be sure to change sanding directions 90º (North and South with one grade, switching to East and West with the next grade)
THE REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Wrap the suggested abrasive around the foam block. Carefully work the damaged area using a straight-line motion. DO NOT USE A CIRCULAR MOTION. Keep firm pressure on the block. Keep sanding material and surface free of dust and contamination. Do not try to remove one scratch at a time. Spread the sanding pattern 4-6 inches with each step. Single point damage like cigarette burns, nicks or cuts must not be spot sanded. Distortion with result.
2. All damage must be removed in the first step. Evaluate your efforts after 2-3 minutes. If removal rate seems slow, move to next coarser grit. Evaluate this coarser grade and move coarser if necessary. Remember, the heavier the scratches you put into the surface, the more time and steps it will take to remove them.
3. When the damage is removed, move to the next finer grade until you have finished with the 400 grit wet/dry.
When damage is removed, your surface should have a uniform scratch pattern running in one direction. If you started with common wet/dry sandpaper, begin with the abrasives in your kit after the surface has been reduced to a 400 grit scratch pattern. If your damage was slight and you started the procedure with the kit abrasives, simply continue through the grades of Micro-Mesh.
THE RESTORAL PROCEDURE
1. Wrap the 1800 around the foam block. Carefully work the damaged area using a straight-line motion. DO NOT USE A CIRCULAR MOTION. Continue until all damage is removed. If you have previously removed severe damage (see Damage Removal) using sandpaper, continue working until that 400 grit pattern is removed.
2. Wrap 2400 around the foam block and continue, this time crossing (+) your 1800 scratch pattern. Make sure that you remove all the 1800 scratch pattern before going on to Step 3.
3. Wrap 3200 around foam block, change your motion to cross the 2400 scratch pattern and continue as outlined in Step 1.
.
Last edited:
KRMNAL1
Well-known member
Thanks ldrhawke !! I'm saving this thread to my favorites
JPG@CFI
Precision Fabricator
Just from my experience, I have found that starting with 6000 will serve you better. You can always step back down to 4000. Also keep in mind that you are probably not going to remove the scratch entirely, just smooth it out, and then algae will not grow there so readily. Micro mesh is really spendy stuff, and a little goes a long ways. If you ask nicely I may know where to find some. PM me and I'll try to remember.
Jason
CFI
worldclassaquariums.com
Jason
CFI
worldclassaquariums.com
