Siphon Break valve

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eww

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Anyone know where to find a small siphon break valve? It would be installed on a 3/8" vinyl ATO tube. I will be running my ATO out of our 55 gal drum of RODI water in the garage. There will be a pump in the bottom of the barrel and I will be running the tube up and over the top of the barrel. It then goes back down to near floor level and runs a horizontal 25' or so run into the bottom a Kalk reactor next to the sump. From there it comes out of the top of the reactor (about a 21" rise) and then out into the sump at about the same height. I am pretty sure that since it is climbing up out of the barrel and then back down it will maintain a siphon. All the plumbing is done with 3/8" vinyl tubing and John Guest fittings. I was thinking of using a small ball type check valve or siphon break type valve in the tubing at the top of the barrel but can't seem to find anything that small or simple. Any of you DIY'ers out there know where to find something like this or know of a way to make one?
 
No we are planning on using a maxi-jet 1200. If the maxi won't push the water that far then we would get a different pump that would.
 
I have a 2 little fishies kal reactor, and it comes with an inline check valve. Maxijet in my ATO reservoir goes through a check valve, then into the kalk reactor, then out and goes into sump.

I bet you can buy the check valve from them, it goes into half inch tubing.

Thing is with check valves.... they will eventually foul up and need to be replaced. If that happens on a 55 gallon reservoir you might have an issue.

Here is another idea, not even sure if it would work, but an idea anyway...

What if it went out of reservoir, staying HIGH above the reservoir, then into the kalk reactor (still above reservoir) then the klk reactor out was not firmly attached, but dripped into a funnel, still above the reservoir, and that went into the tank? Does that make sense? Then no need for a valve or anything. Let me draw a picture...

eww.jpg


if that image didn't work, here is direct link:

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee320/bobgoulsby/eww.jpg
 
you can use a "T" near the top of the reservior followed by a shut off valve to adjust the overflow so the MJ still does its job. Then when the pump kicks off you have your siphon break. I'm going to assume you will need the adjustment valve since your trying to move water uphill. Here is a pic on post 22 on the siphon break I built for RichV's tank
 
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I have a near identical set-up. In lieu of a valve, use the T that Duane is talking about except with no shut off valve. The extra line from the T goes uphill a couple feet to nothing, but it keeps the pump from pushing water out the T onto the ground as it has to rise uphill and will follow the path of last resistance, through the return line into the tank.
 
I have a near identical set-up. In lieu of a valve, use the T that Duane is talking about except with no shut off valve. The extra line from the T goes uphill a couple feet to nothing, but it keeps the pump from pushing water out the T onto the ground as it has to rise uphill and will follow the path of last resistance, through the return line into the tank.

yea, that sounds like a good idea. much cleaner. If there is a lot of resistance going through the kalk reactor, it could be an issue, but if not the T should be good (or you could put in the T after the kalk reactor, if yours builds up pressure like mine does.)
 
Wow thanks guys. Sometimes it's so simple and starring you in the face that you just don't see it. I might even put two in for the "just in case" factor.

Thanks for all the thought and drawings on your idea too Rob. I'm sure it would work as well if we weren't dealing with the tank in the dining room and plumbing through all the kitchen cabinets like we are. There is no where to raise the water line and kalk reactor to without putting it up on the kitchen counter... Picture the wife's face on that idea...:fish::der:
 
I dont think a mj1200 is going to push the water up and that far. Looks like a job for a peri pump.

Don
 
I dont think a mj1200 is going to push the water up and that far. Looks like a job for a peri pump.

Don

The maxijet 400 on my corner tank is handling an almost 48" rise into a 1/4" tube but only traveling that 48". I am using a larger one (900 or 1200) on the one to my display that pumps from the backyard and through the kalk stirrer. Think a 1200 would do great with the rise and the longer run
 
I dont think a mj1200 is going to push the water up and that far. Looks like a job for a peri pump.

Don
I have a mj900 for ATO pushing 4 feet of head with 1/4" line on my current tank. I also used to use a mj1200 as a return pump at 4 feet of head with 3/4" line on my old prop system.

Mike, I'll do my best to make it. I was planning on attending your house but went camping last minute instead.
 
Wow thanks guys. Sometimes it's so simple and starring you in the face that you just don't see it. I might even put two in for the "just in case" factor.

Thanks for all the thought and drawings on your idea too Rob. I'm sure it would work as well if we weren't dealing with the tank in the dining room and plumbing through all the kitchen cabinets like we are. There is no where to raise the water line and kalk reactor to without putting it up on the kitchen counter... Picture the wife's face on that idea...:fish::der:
All of this would fit nicely in a fishroom on the other side of the tank. LOL
 
Well Dave we have one of those fancy fish rooms. Its just not right behind the tank. It's disguised well as a two car garage on the opposite side of the house and as you well know it's not going to get any closer per Becca. :D

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Well Dave we have one of those fancy fish rooms. Its just not right behind the tank. It's disguised well as a two car garage on the opposite side of the house and as you well know it's not going to get any closer per Becca. :D

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Maybe we could remodel the Kitchen?? We could move the fridge to the other side and the tank would fit.......
 
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