Siphon breaks

[Salty D-O-G]

I have 8 Loc-Line nozzels in my 175 and was wondering what I can do for a siphon break. I almost had to learn a messy lesson last night from back suction. Thanks in advance

Jerry

 

[returnofsid]

Are you running a sump beneath the tank? If that's the problem you're talking about, it's quite easy to create siphon breaks. Drill small holes just below the water line. When power goes out and water starts to drain back into the sump, as soon as the water reaches the level of the drilled holes, it'll start sucking air instead of water, which will break the siphon. Some suggest even drilling 2 holes, in case a snail ends up perched on one of them...lol. You also want to clean out the holes on occasion with a toothpick.

 

[Salty D-O-G]

You so smart!! I didn't think of that one. Thanks


Jerry

 

[shallowreef]

Or you could do what i did and install a device that stops back flow. I don't know the name of it but thats what i use. Plus i have found that drilling holes depending on how much of the water you disturb with waves and what not tends to put a lot of bubbles in the water. At least thats what happened with me. Although that it is the cheaper and easier way. I think installing the device will be more beneficial in the end.

JMO

 

[LakeEd]

Be careful of using check-valves on your return lines in Reef Tanks. Calcium tends to build up in time (especially after your 1 year point) and can "Freeze" those check-valves in the open position. Looking at them, you may not notice this condition, but once you lose power, and they no longer close correctly, floods happen.

Using a Check-valve in conjunction with the siphon-break-holes is your safest option. Just remember to add a quick cleanout of those siphon holes into your monthly routine.

 

[Jan]

a related question

If using a U-tube in overflow, is it possible to prevent the bubble buildup in the bend of the U, which could stop the syphon to the sump and cause the display tank to overflow? I assume that's what would happen anyway...

(Sorry about highjacking your thread!)

 

[revance]

I agree with not using check valves. They WILL fail eventually. Your best bet is to either drill a couple holes in the return line or leave enough room in the sump for the water to back-siphon.

Regarding siphon overflow boxes: If you have adequate flow going through the U-tube you won't get bubbles accumulating in the top. Some people use multiple U-tubes thinking they are getting safety with redundancy, but in reality they are just slowing the flow in the tubes and increasing the chance of bubbles forming.

Some people drill holes in the top of their u-tubes and run airline tubing to the intake of the venturi on a powerhead so it constantly pulls a little water through the top (and gets rid of any bubbles), but I don't trust that. If the power went off and the check valve on the airline failed, it would break the siphon and flood your floor when the power comes back on. I think your best bet is to push as much water through the tube as you possibly can and check it regularly. I am speaking from experience... I have a siphon overflow on my planted tank.

 

[Meche]

it would break the siphon and flood your floor when the power comes back on.

You don't have Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt sockets.

 

[revance]

You don't have Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt sockets.

What does that have to do with it?

I mean the check valve on the airline from the U-tube to the venturi failing would mean if the power goes out, air would fill up the u-tube breaking the siphon. Which means when the power goes back on, your siphon box won't work... thus resulting in a flood. GFCI sockets don't prevent any of this.

 

[Meche]

If you loose power with a portable GFCI, it must be reset before power is restored.

After doing some more reading, apparently there are wall socket versions that do not require this type of reset.

 

[revance]

You are right, normal GFCI outlets don't need reset after power outages... I didn't know the portable ones did as I have never used one (that is a big drawback). Either way, you don't want your siphon to ever break because it is a PITA to fix and it is generally unsafe.

 

[Scooterman]

If you loose power with a portable GFCI, it must be reset before power is restored.

After doing some more reading, apparently there are wall socket versions that do not require this type of reset.

I don't think this is true, unless you got a spike before the power outage or something they should not need resetting.

 

[Scooterman]

Normally you don't try to rely of your sump return for flow, first having 8 outlets is suggesting that this is done, internal flow should be derived by other means, usually your sump return is only one source of flow & not much needed. I have gone years with no holes of checks, I just come out the water with the loc-line & then back in making an arch, the wide flair just goes deep enough the surface to prevent air bubbles, it breaks siphon fast.

 

[DonW]

I don't think this is true, unless you got a spike before the power outage or something they should not need resetting.

Theyre job site gfi's. They are used to prevent things like table saw accidents after a power interupt. Ive got one on my yard work extension cord its a pita.

Don

Don