Some light info for ya

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mojoreef

Reef Keeper
Joined
Jul 5, 2003
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Sumner
Ok their was some questions about corals and their colors and how its achieved, so I though I would dig up an old thread I did and get some more talk going.

Corals have Zoox which is an algae, actually they are dinoflagellates. they are the same as the nasty ones in our tanks. With in this dino are pigments. A series of chlorophyll’s which are green and carotenoid peridinin which is yellow. (yellow and green make??? brown, thus most corals are brown) now these pigments are basically chemical molecules that possess the ability to absorb visible light photons. and so the process starts. The energy of the light photons are captured by these pigments and transfered through a sytem called ETS (electron transport system). and eventually end up in a reaction center, which leads to the formation of ATP and NADPH . ATP is the food (Hmm andrenlintriphosphate??? (sp). and nadph is reducing power. both form organic compounds the coral can use as food.
Now the ammounts of these pigments in corals is not a carved in sstone thing, they can have more chlorophyll’s and less carotenoid's or visa visa and this can influence the color of the coral and/or clam. So how does that influence the light we use??? most of the pigments chlorophyll have a strong ability to gather light in the blue and violet range. the other more dominant pigment carotenoid peridinin mostly absorbs blue light waves, but does absorb violet and a tiny bit of green. So you make the call on the K of the bulb you wish to use (or combination).
So now lets move away from the aglae that is providing food and take a look at some of the actual colors of the corals, because as we know not all corals are brown (thank God).
Also with in the coral are more pigments. they have a variety of different purposes and requirements. they reside with in the tissue of the coral itself. Now these pigments do not have the ability to traansfer light energy, but it has been found that in very deep waters they ave the ability to alter particular color wave lengths. This is done by absorbing one color and the fluorescing a color the coral can use. SPS or shallow water corals produce large ammounts of pigments under high lighting intencity. So lets get into the meat of it.
Most pigments in coral tissue are called pocilloporin and are catagorized as either Brightly Colored Low Fluorescent Pocilloporins or as Highly Fluorescent Pocilloporins. Highly Fluorescent Pocilloporin pigments have the ability to absorb light with a specific wavelength and then fluoresce or emit this light into a different wavelength. Most of the highly flouresent varity act as UV protectorants. protecting the coral and algae from UV's and to much light. the lower flourescent types tend to help the Zoox pgments convert uv and /or violet leght into something useable.
these pigments absorb light basically with in the zone of 400 to 620 nm. violet to blue to some green and some yellow and some red. they absorb those light but fluorese dofferent colors back out. the colors the fluorese out are the colors we see in oour tanks.
So conclution...sorta. most of the light waves corals use for growth are in the range of blue and violet. this is for food but not necessarly the color of the coral. the pigemnts inside the corals tissue, have a roader range of absorbtion and emit a different color then they absorb (usually). but it has nothing to do with thier feeding process.

Mike
 
This is what we know about pigments:
For growth zoox have chlorophyll’s pigment they have strong light absorbing capabilities within the violet/blue area of the light spectrum and can also absorb a significant amount of red light. They also have carotenoid peridinin pigment which absorbs blue light along with some violet and some green. Satisfy this and the coral will grow.

Now for coloring :
>Pocilloporin primarily absorbs green/yellow (550-600 nm) light along with some upper UV-A . it emmits a orange/red
>highly fluorescent pocilloporins primarily absorbs light from 310 to 380 nm (UV-B and UV-A) and then fluoresces this as light from 400 to 470 nm (violet/blue).
>highly fluorescent pocilloporin primarily absorbs light from 380 to 470 nm (UV-A, violet and blue) and fluoresces light from 475 to 520 nm (blue and green).
>third type of highly fluorescent pocilloporin primarily absorbs light from 430 to 490 nm (violet and blue) and fluoresces light from 490 to 540 nm (green/yellow).
>Yellow fluorescing pocilloporin primarily absorbs light from 440 to 500 nm (blue) and fluoresces light from 520 to 620 nm (green, yellow and orange).
>Red/Orange Fluorescing pocilloporin that primarily absorbs light from 500 to 540 nm (green) and fluoresces light with wavelengths that are primarily orange to red.

Ok so now we know what color we put in and what color will results, so lets translate that to bulbs.
here is a 20000K radium wave plot 400 watt.
4120k.gif
So looking at that, then translating into what we know. We could assume to get alot of of dark green, blues, some yellows and sme deep reds. But for growth it doesnt have alot of red or green or violet so not alot.
Now lets look at the 10000K ushio 400 watt
41ushio10k.gif

so looking at this we see good violet which translates to violet and blues, and strong 500 to 600 so good oranges, reds,greens
ok so heres some more charts you do the math, lol
here are a bunch of 400 watters
41all400.gif

and some 250 watt de's
41250de.gif


mike
 
Damn you, mojo my head was just starting to clear from all the reading on Calcium :razz::razz:;)

Todd
 
Yep :D I figure its always a good time to know how things work, biology is always beeter then opinion ;)

anyway I am out of town for a couple of days you all have fun

Mojo
 
So witch of these bulbs would be the darker blue / purple?


ATI 80W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent
ati_T5_blue_plus.jpg


ATI 80W True Actinic 03 T5 HO Fluorescent:
ati_T5_actinic.jpg


Giesemann 80W Pure Actinic 03 T5 HO Fluorescent
giesemann_pure_actinic.jpg
 
Top one would be more blue and then progressively going purple as you go from bulb to bulb.


mojo
 
it is better to run mh with your blue lights at the same time or split them up?
 
I run both MH and Actinic's at the same time but you are going to get mixed responses with that question. Some don't even run actinic's at all.
 
it is better to run mh with your blue lights at the same time or split them up?

It really doesn't matter. What some people do is they use actinics an hour before the metal halides come on and let them stay on for an hour after the halides go off for a dusk to dawn effect. This allows the tank's inhabitants the opportunity to adjust to the lighting at the beginning of the day rather than getting blasted first thing in the morning with metal halides. It also allows them time to wind down in the evening rather than the lights just turning off one shot completely. Silimar to sunrise and sunset. If you want to use the two together, some people do this when they run a metal halide bulb that is really white or even yellowish for it's good par rating and then just use the actinics/blues to make the color more appealing to them. Some just love the blue look of the tank and this is a good way to achieve it when your main bulbs (halides) are of a white or yellow spectrum. With that said, there are metal halide bulbs out there that you can use by itself that already has a blue tint to it which will be bulbs in the 12K, 14K, and 20K range. The higher the kelvin rating you go, the bluer it gets. Only downside is typically the higher kelvin rated bulbs don't have as good of a par rating as the lower kelvin rated bulbs (eg a 20K XM vs a 10K xm where the 10K will have more par). :)
 
I run mine 2 hours before and after. But that is only after reducing my MH time. It was running for 10 and I reduced it to 8
 

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