Splash Cover over tank

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warforged

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I have a 55 gallon tank with the Odysea Hood (445watt) MH with Compacts.

Its not the full length of my tank.. currently I have a wood support structure shaped like a upside down letter T on both ends to prop up my light 9" from the water surface.

Question 1: Is the distance too far from the water surface with the hood

#2 I want to buy a plexi or glass sheet to go over in between below the light to prevent splash ups
a. if i go glass can I use Wax on the glass surface facing the water to prevent the crusty build up from water evaporation...

b if i go plex can I wax also and how thick should it be to not Warp due to the Metal halide heat?

Thanks hope you all can help or even suggest other ideas.
 
8 to 10" is fine for most halides. If you cover the top you limit gas exchange, not a good idea.

Don
 
8 to 10" is fine for most halides. If you cover the top you limit gas exchange, not a good idea.

Don

Good to see you Don. And ok...if thats fine for distance then no splash up guard needed...

Last question... can I cut that center plastic piece going across the middle of the top of my 55 gallon? its producing an annoying shadow down the center of my tank...

Any modifications I can do?
 
Good to see you Don. And ok...if thats fine for distance then no splash up guard needed...

Last question... can I cut that center plastic piece going across the middle of the top of my 55 gallon? its producing an annoying shadow down the center of my tank...

Any modifications I can do?

Dont know about cutting the brace. No shield necessary at that height. Just clean the ligh every now and again.

Don
 
ive read not to cut the brace but on my 55 the brace has been gone for nearly a year and it hasnt collapsed, so i dont know how vital it is
 
When I had my 65g my brace broke and I just replaced it with a stip of 1/4" acrylic. That way you still have the strength of the bracing there and it also lets some light thru in that area.:)
 
When I had my 65g my brace broke and I just replaced it with a stip of 1/4" acrylic. That way you still have the strength of the bracing there and it also lets some light thru in that area.:)

Thanks for the input. I may just do that.. Now its how to mcgyver this into a tank already stocked without breaking anything...and or flooding my living room.
 
I wouldn't cut the brace and not replace it. If you have a glass tank, it's best to use glass for the replacement. I removed mine as shown in the photo below. I siliconed a piece of 1/4" glass under the existing brace, waited a few days, then used a garden hachet (the mass is key) heated on the stove to melt through the plastic brace. Easy as pie. No cutting motion was required.

CopyofIMG_3480-1.jpg
 
I wouldn't cut the brace and not replace it. If you have a glass tank, it's best to use glass for the replacement. I removed mine as shown in the photo below. I siliconed a piece of 1/4" glass under the existing brace, waited a few days, then used a garden hachet (the mass is key) heated on the stove to melt through the plastic brace. Easy as pie. No cutting motion was required.

CopyofIMG_3480-1.jpg

Great idea with the melting through
 
About 10 years ago I had the plastic brace on my 55g break. The tank had an terrible bow in the front. I would definately replace it as described above if you wan to change it.
 

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