Stuck ball valves

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

DonW

DonW

R.I.P.
Joined
Dec 15, 2003
Messages
8,751
Location
Tacoma, WA
Anyone have a trick to unsticking a calcium crusted ball valve. Ive got two stuck valves and a leaking CL pump that needs a seal.

Don
 
Hmmm...Is it the ball valves on the suction of each pump? If so, is there any way you can cap off the strainers in the tank and close the valve on the return (of the pump) which will will mean you will only have so much water trapped in between the cap->pump-> return valve. If you could do that, maybe you can just cut out the old ball valve (which will only release the little water trapped in between) and replace it with new ones? Just a thought.
 
krish75 said:
Hmmm...Is it the ball valves on the suction of each pump? If so, is there any way you can cap off the strainers in the tank and close the valve on the return (of the pump) which will will mean you will only have so much water trapped in between the cap->pump-> return valve. If you could do that, maybe you can just cut out the old ball valve (which will only release the little water trapped in between) and replace it with new ones? Just a thought.
Click to expand...

All four are stuck. The lower CL is the leaker. I'd like to avoid having to plug off the lower bulkheads. The drains are easy. I'm not sure I can even reach the lowers.

Don
 
All four are stuck. The lower CL is the leaker. I'd like to avoid having to plug off the lower bulkheads. The drains are easy. I'm not sure I can even reach the lowers.

Don
Click to expand...

Wow! I thought you said it was just two. Hmmm... I guess draining the tank isn't an option right? The only other thing that comes to mind right now (which I'm not positive is do-able or makes sense but) what if you put elbows on the suction in the tank and extend some pvc up in the air out of the tank to break the siphon on the pumps? Would that help or do you think the lower ones will still drain back? I'll go and look at the photo again, but let me know if that helps you any...
 
Looking at the link I provided again, the one on the right (looking at the picture) seems like an easy fix if you just drop the water level below the outputs on the top and cap off the suction. That way, only the water in between would be trapped in there ,which will give you a chance to replace them both. Now the one on the left is a bit more tricky...
 
krish75 said:
Looking at the link I provided again, the one on the right (looking at the picture) seems like an easy fix if you just drop the water level below the outputs on the top and cap off the suction. That way, only the water in between would be trapped in there ,which will give you a chance to replace them both. Now the one on the left is a bit more tricky...
Click to expand...

Its the one on the left that leaks. All the outlets are behind the rock.
I,m considering holding a tactile transducer against the pipe. My amp is only 250w but I can borrow a 1K amp.

Don
 
Its the one on the left that leaks. All the outlets are behind the rock.
I,m considering holding a tactile transducer against the pipe. My amp is only 250w but I can borrow a 1K amp.

Don
Click to expand...

I'm confused a bit(LOL) O.k the left is the leaker, but you have four ball valves total that are stuck...2 on the right CL and 2 on the left CL...Right? I'm just going by what you said here...

All four are stuck. The lower CL is the leaker. I'd like to avoid having to plug off the lower bulkheads. The drains are easy. I'm not sure I can even reach the lowers.

Don
Click to expand...

But then your first post said only 2 ball valves..

Anyone have a trick to unsticking a calcium crusted ball valve. Ive got two stuck valves and a leaking CL pump that needs a seal.

Don
Click to expand...

Forgive me if I sound retarted here(LOL) Just trying to understand if all 4 ball valves are stuck (both left and right CL), but just one leak (on the left) from needing a seal? Or am I mixing up everything? Sorry man...Just trying to help:)
 
I noticed on my ball valves they would stick a little also, I got into the habit of opening & closing them weekly. They are pretty tuff you can try to support the plumbing like having a back-up & see if you can free them up, needless to say this also comes with a warning but at some point whatever you do it must happen so be prepared for he worst. Maybe someone has a better solution.
 
All four are stuck but today all i care about is the two on the lower closed loop that is leaking. I'll worry about the other two when the other pump goes out. There are two CL's upper (right pump) and Lower (Left pump).

Don
 
Scooterman said:
I noticed on my ball valves they would stick a little also, I got into the habit of opening & closing them weekly. They are pretty tuff you can try to support the plumbing like having a back-up & see if you can free them up, needless to say this also comes with a warning but at some point whatever you do it must happen so be prepared for he worst. Maybe someone has a better solution.
Click to expand...

I was hoping someone would have a cool way to break the ca loose. The hammer thing didnt work. Roto rooter can hit the valve ultrasonic waves but wants 500 to try.

Don
 
Yieaks, I have different ball valves they seem bigger so I wasn't afraid to bear down on them, seems like they may break, I broke one while gluing fittings together, tried to turn it just a little more & snap at the joint.
 
All four are stuck but today all i care about is the two on the lower closed loop that is leaking. I'll worry about the other two when the other pump goes out. There are two CL's upper (right pump) and Lower (Left pump).

Don
Click to expand...

Cool...Thanks. I understand now:)

Well, one last thought I'd leave you with before I cause you to fling your computer out of the window(LOL)...Could this work?

Do whatever you have up your sleeve to stop water from coming in the suction on the pump

Get a long enough flex PVC that can be raised above your tank water and attach a couplin to it.

Then cut the pvc right above the output of the pump and quickly attach the prepared piece of flex pvc temporarily to it (coming from the tank)and raise it above your water level. That should stop the flow from coming out of the bottom outputs.

Then you can cut the pvc you have up in the air as low as you can without causing water to come out, and put a new ball valve on the pvc. After that, all you would have to do is close the new ball vave and re-attach it to the pump as water will not be allowed to drain back during this time. The only set back I see with doing it this way, is you may have to lower the pump a bit and you don't have very much space to cut right above the pump. HTH and I'm not frustrating you:)
 
Last edited:
what about a piece of plastic lowerd down the water inside untill it sucks up against the bulkhead, then cut the valves out and try soaking in vinegar, or better yet replace them. i use threaded valves and unions so they can be dissassembled later for maintainance.
 
Don, I havent had this happen to me but I'd think some heat from a blow dryer might expand the plastic enough to give you the advantage.. Maybe even some heat/cool down sequences. Just a thought.
 
If muratic acid (diluted of course) doesn't work, nothing will. Just thoroughly rinse. Acid dissolves all calcium buildups quickly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Premiumaq
30% OFF ELOS Test Kits & Additives + Vectra S1 Now Shipping
Replies
0
Views
766
Premiumaq
Premiumaq
mfinn
1" pvc ball valves fs
Replies
1
Views
174
mfinn
mfinn
barrierreefcf
Please Read - Helping Mike Foote
Replies
2
Views
1K
Scooterman
Scooterman
N1Husker
AquaticLife Smart Buddie RODI booster pump review
Replies
0
Views
2K
N1Husker
N1Husker
Airphotog
WTB Float valve for RO/DI
Replies
4
Views
257
seedlessinseattle
S

Latest posts

Back
Top