Sump Flow

[kimoyo]

Hi Everyone,

I have a dilemma and don't know what to do. Right now I have a 55gal glass tank (no water in it yet) in my living room and wanted to upgrade in a few years. When I first started this I wasn't thinking about noise or electricity cost. So I designed my system and built my sump thinking I would have 3 pumps going. Don't ask me why because I just didn't know better at the time. After a bunch of money and returning, I went with an aquac ev 180 (700gph), dolphin amp master 2700 (cut back to ~2300-2400gph output), cpr cs150 overflow (1600gph), and a scwd (1400gph). The amp master can be cut back on the outlet with a valve so I wanted to cut around 300-400gph. I would like to only have one pump running but I have to get water thru the 180 and also get water back up to the tank. Does anyone have any suggestions???

I was thinking I would have water dump into the sump and then pulled out by the dolphin. Then the dolphin would have its output split to go into the tank thru the scwd and into the ev180 which would be redirected back into the sump. Would this be an efficient way to skim?

Also, is there a maximum distance baffles can be separated to efficiently get rid of bubbles or is it dependant on the flow thru the sump? My flow should be around 2300gph. Also is there a certain volume the sump should have to accommodate the high flow (not talking about overflow)?

Thanks in advance.

Paul

 

[kevinpo]

Hi Paul,
Your plan sounds like it will work just fine. as for baffle spacing usually they need to be far enough apart to get your hand in there in case you need to remove something or clean (2" works). The width of the sump is what controls water velocity through it. Just like a narrow canyon creates rapids and turbulent water in a river a narrow sump will do the same carrying bubbles with it. I have 15" wide sump running 2000 gph that just barely eliminates the bubbles with 5 baffles. 16-18" wide would have been better in hindsight.

Be sure to install ball valves on each line output (one to the tank and one to the skimmer) so you can control the flow to each.

HTH,
Kevin

 

[Schottman]

The only problem I can see with your design is that your CPR overflow only allows for 1600 GPH and your return pump can push over 2700 GPH. Now if enough of that goes to your skimmer your ok!! Good turnover rates for a 55 though!

Dave

 

[kimoyo]

Thanks Kevin,
So you think the mixed skimmed-unskimmed water won't be a problem and efficient? I would like to make my sump wide but I'm limited a 10.5 width for it to go under my stand. I would prefer not to have it behind the tank out of the stand (for aesthetics) but maybe I should think about it.
Paul

 

[kimoyo]

Hi Schottman,
Yeah, the 1600gph is a hindrance. That’s why I was thinking about splitting the output of the dolphin and cutting it back a little to around 2300gph. Thanks.
Paul

 

[kevinpo]

With a skimmer that size on a 55 gal you won't have to worry about it. It will scrub the water quite clean

Regards,
Kevin

 

[kimoyo]

Hey Kevin,
Thanks a lot for the help. Just a few more question please.

Can I compensate for the width with more height in the sump?

I saw a pic of your sump and I was curious, is it better to have your return going thru a hole drilled into the side wall or does it matter if you go over the top of the side wall?

And lastly would you recommend an auto-topoff? I have a kent marine float valve and when I filled up my current sump to the top (to simulate an overflow) the float valve started leaking. I was thinking about getting another gasket for it but then I thought maybe I should keep it simple. I saw a hole for it in your designs but I didn't see one in your actually sump.

Paul

 

[kevinpo]

I just checked the pump curve for your pump and using it the way you plan it will produce about 2100 gph. at full open. Minus the 700 gph for the skimmer you will only have about 1400 gph through the overflow box. Ampmasters do not pump head pressure very well (that is how they save on electricity). your pump will shut off at 11.5 feet of head compared to an Iwaki (39' shutoff).

Normally 1" of space below and above the baffle works well. You could double it to 2" and see how it works. I haven't tried it but I think it would work just as well.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[kevinpo]

I use an electronic float switch that drives a solenoid valve which opens to allow my RO/DI to operate (I evaporate 12-15 gals a day). My switch is inside the tank mounted to a piece of acrylic with slots in it. I can slide it up and down to change the level in my sump to any height I want. The acrylic piece is attached to the tank stand that way snails and crabs cannot get on the switch
In the picture you can just make out the solenoid valve mounted on the cross brace the lights are attached to. The bracket that holds the float switch is attached right next to it and hangs down into the water.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[kimoyo]

Hey Kevin,
Thanks a lot for taking the time. You really helped me out. Take Care.
Paul