Sump/fuge plans....will this work?

[Haole]

That and raising or lowering the collection cup from what I understand from their downloadable user manual on their website...
http://proteinskimmer.com/index.htm
I don’t own one personally, but I would think if you had the collection cup set at its upper most setting and it was still producing wet skimmate, then you would need to throttle back the pump a little.

 

[ilektrik22]

no idea about the Aqua C, It's still in the box until the sumps set up.
It came with a maxi-jet 1200, which is the pump upgrade. but guys we are jumping ahead of ourselves here....my chickpea brain can't take in all of this
( I will check out that website when I install it though)

the 2 tanks are sitting side by side now, the pump will have to pump water up18 inches( from what i understand about physics, it's the waterline of the sump where you measure up from.)
to a 90 degree bend and then into the tank, I think i'll put the in on the left and the out/return on the right of the image meche posted, this way reducing the amount of pumping required by the pump.

so i might be totally off with this but, 1.5 + 1ft( bend head pressure)=2.5,so lets say 300gph and my overflow is rated at 300gph so this should be alright yes? or no

oh and I haven't even washed the tank so i think getting it ready this weekend is a no go

also
Gate valve vs Ball valve

-Gate valves are very inefficient but are good at throttling or making fine adjustments.

-Ball valves are much more efficient but adjustment making is rather crude.

Have you figured which pump you are going to use? Just keep in mind that if you use a gate valve it will "eat" some flow.

what do you mean by inefficient? I was planning on a ball valve....

 

[Meche]

it's the waterline of the sump where you measure up from

surface to surface.

to a 90 degree bend and then into the tank,

do you mean (2) 90 degree?

my overflow is rated at 300gph

You do not want to over run your overflow. I was speaking from a point of view of a optimized set-up. I would rather run a non-optimized set-up rather than risk overflowing the tank.

what do you mean by inefficient? I was planning on a ball valve....

(For agruments sake, these are not actual numbers)
A half open ball valve will act like a 45 degree bend.
A half open gate valve will act like a 90 degree bend. More restrictive.

However, in your case this effect will be lessened because you are splitting the pumps output.

 

[ilektrik22]

do you mean (2) 90 degree?

nope just 1, it's going to go striaght from the pump up to the display, 90 degree elbow to the tank(maybe a second angle/more of a slope I have to see what's at the store so that it doesn't just drop water into the display).

I'm splitting the pump output? now i'm confused, i thought i was splitting the input(from the tank) into the 2 different sections in the sump?....ahh but the pic says otherwise, now wht would i split the output pump?


I think i'll work on the non-optimized system....as optimizing seems above my understanding at the moment

 

[Meche]

I'm splitting the pump output? now i'm confused, i thought i was splitting the input(from the tank) into the 2 different sections in the sump?...

Well thats up to you, but yes, thats what me and haole have been talking about.

Check it out.



The blue flow circle can not be more than 300gph because of your overflow. However, if it is less, then you will not be feeding the skimmer with all of the water it can handle. So my suggestion is to make this as close to 300gph as possible.

Now, the red flow circle will be the rest of your flow from the pump. How big is the fuge section? The flow though the red circle should be low but still keep things moving. I'm guessing you want to keep it to about powerhead levels, which is about 100-300gph.

If you split the flow from the overflow, you would still want 100-300gph going through your fuge. If you did that, your equiptment (skimmer, heater, etc) would only see 200-0gph, which is the remainder of the 300gph maximum rating of your overflow.

Does this help you visualize?

 

[Meche]

More

Now add up the red flow loop (100-300gph) and the blue flow loop (300gph). For an optimized system, you want a pump that can pump 400-600gph with the restrictions. If the pump only has to pump up 18" and through a few elbows and a valve, you may need a pump capable of pumping 700-800gph max.

 

[ilektrik22]

okay so that makes sence,

my dimensions are:

24x12x19h

so I was hoping to do 24x 6 width(roughly, -glass thickness) and 24x6 for the equipment etc? can i make the equipment area smaller(less wide, like 4 inches, or will this create problems with my skimmer...do you think it might be more realistic not to add that partition and have just a fuge with the equipment inside it, and the intake and return chambers?

And i think i'm going to have to have some type of poump in the fuge to get water moving out of the far end

 

[ilektrik22]

More

Now add up the red flow loop (100-300gph) and the blue flow loop (300gph). For an optimized system, you want a pump that can pump 400-600gph with the restrictions. If the pump only has to pump up 18" and through a few elbows and a valve, you may need a pump capable of pumping 700-800gph max.

hummm, but i just got my pump, and i'm not sure i can return it....

 

[Meche]

do you think it might be more realistic not to add that partition and have just a fuge with the equipment inside it

Not a bad idea at all. Keep in mind your "display fuge" will be not quite so attractive. Also, you will still want to section off your pump so that the water height remains constant where the skimmer is located.

Of course, now you can just call it a sump, no more fuge. :lol:

 

[ilektrik22]

this sucks
Of course, now you can just call it a sump, no more fuge
NEVER!!!! it's officially a "display fuge" no matter what happens ( even if all i can get is some really ugly cheato's, and fireworms in there)

now that i can actually see the tank, and the depth i have to work with i'm not sure if it's worth it to section off the different areas, it just seems like to much work for really minimal visual benifit...

Also, you will still want to section off your pump so that the water height remains constant where the skimmer is located.

so I would want to make the return section large enough to put the HOB skimmer in? how much room does one need, or should i have it in the main "fugie" area? why will the water level shift so much?

 

[Meche]

so I would want to make the return section large enough to put the HOB skimmer in?

Nope. Put the skimmer in the fuge section. I know this is hard to visualize but, when water evaporates from your tank, the only waterlevel that will be affected is the one that the return pump is in. So if you section off where the pump is, and put the skimmer in a different area (like the fuge) it will never see any waterlevel change.

The size of the section for the return pump must be large enough for the pump to fit into, but also keep in mind that all of your tank's evaporation will only lower that one small area. If this area can only hold 1/2gal and your tank evaporates 1/2gal per day, you will be in trouble if you miss a top off.

 

[ilektrik22]

okay so i will make that section much larger then originally planned...

thanks so much for helping with this

yvonne

 

[Meche]

no prob, let us know how it works out, or if you have anyother Qs

pictures are always cool too

 

[Haole]

Oop’s... The pump upgrade is for the Remora Pro. But I still think people are doing it with the Remora as well. Once you get this all set up, then you will see and be able to determine if you need more flow.
Here’s some more info for you to look into, in the meantime if you get bored.
Protein Skimmer Production Improvements
AquaC Club
Good luck to you, yvonne.
And yeah, show us some pictures!

 

[ilektrik22]

okay so initially I was all pumped to get this done over the weekend...but then new years happened...

So I've ripped up the broken tank( stealing glass from it) and measured the to be sump/fuge tank.

the inside measurements are 23.5 X 12 X 19h=23g, so the dividers will be 15 inches high, making the sump 18.5g and giving me 5g leeway incase of a poweroutage ( happens at my house alot).

I'm planning on make the "in" area 5 inchesX5inches, and the return area (where there will be 2 baffles 1" apart and the second one 1"above the bottom) 5"x12deepx15 high, the rest will be the "pretty fuge"...

does this sound right?

sorry my comp doesn't have ANY drawing programs

 

[Meche]

sorry my comp doesn't have ANY drawing programs

:lol: Yes ma'am it does. I've taken 5 CAD classes at college and I still perfer "paint". :lol:

Ok, so your out box will have a 3.9gal capacity (minus a little for your pumps inlet not being at the bottom). That should do the trick. How big is the tank again?

 

[Haole]

Yep, I use “paint” too... Can’t you tell? You could even copy and paste those pretty pictures that Meche drew and hack’em up as much as you like. :lol:
Your dimensions sound similar to what mine are going to be.
It was suggested to me and I’ll pass this onto you that when you cut the glass for your refugium panels and baffles, leave yourself about 1/8th of an inch on both sides. This will allow the silicone to fill beside the glass and the tank walls. This will also allow for any movements in the aquarium. I think you would be ok with siliconing 1 side of the baffles, but if possible I would silicone both sides of the glass holding the refugium though, just for a peace of mind sake.

 

[ilektrik22]

when i said NO drawing programs I mean non...not even paint...I don't even have a calculator...no idea why, I think I was "cleaning" out my comp and got over zealous!!!!!! I love paint, it's da bomb!

tank is 25 g ( but really 23.5g when measured from inside....)

thanks, I have to go get silicone, is any type alright? or a specific brand better? ( going to cut glass tonight...maybe....)

 

[Haole]

Just make sure it’s 100% silicone, meaning that it does not contain any algaecides in it.
I found some at my local hardware store made by DAP that’s labeled for aquarium use all over it. I couldn’t tell you if it’s better than any other, but at least there’s no confusion if it’s safe or not.

 

[ilektrik22]

so I siliconed, possibly not a professional job, but i'm certain the glass is NOT going to be going anywhere...was wondering if you used masking tape or painters tape 1/2 inch ( or smaller) away from the seam would that work to keep the silicone in place as you smuge it in? thought of that after i finished.

yeah so i was covered in silicone, as was my floor, boyfriend and dog...discovered that i have minimal siliconing skills, will see what it looks like when it's dry, contemplating just spray painting the entire tank black

cant post a pic as i've discovered that my the files are to large and i don;t know how to decrease there size nor do i know how to post them other then through an attachment.

will see if any of the glass is still in place in tomorrow morning