T-5 Lighting

[onehawksfan]

okay folks,
I am planning on using a t-5 setup for my 50g mixed reef tank. I would like to have sps, lps, shrooms and even maxima and crocea clams. The tank is 24" deep and I would like to have enough light to keep the clams on the bottom sandbed.

I have heard that overdriving (4) T-5 bulbs with IceCap 660 can produce massive amounts of light (with PAR readings equivalent or greater than MH at this depth - researched on Reefcentral). Unfortunately, with overdriving comes the cost of increased energy consumption and shorter bulb life (plus I find it a little scary). I was instead looking at a (6) bulb complete system (such as Sunlight Supply Tek Lights). I would probably do (2) actinics, and the other (4) a mix between 6k and 10k.

Here's my question: Without any overdriving, would this system (6 lights @ 39W each) be enough to support the clams? Would this be equivalent to (2) 175w mh? thanks all!

 

[Scooterman]

Your correct that you would probably want to replace them around 6 months being overdriven. Also be cautious, I don't think they would equal a 250W MH at 24" depth. When they put it up with testing done with an Apogee or Licor meter then I'd rethink that idea.
I'm almost certain that you will also get Less PAR when you stray from the 10k lights. Trying to keep clams at 36w x 6 T5;s won't do it.

 

[jezzeaepi]

What are your tank dimensions? Are you going with a DSB? Those 4 or 5 inches of being closer to the top would defintly help. The same thing goes for mounting. The closer you can get it to your tank without transfering heat the better.

Youll be able to keep sps fine as long as they are in the top 3rd of the tank. They will probably do alright at lower levels, but wont have as good of growth. I dont know much about clams though, but I bet youd be able to keep one of the lower light species.
As far as which unit to get, that depends. Overdriving it will do a few things for you. It will make it so you can keep sps almost anywhere, youll be able to keep any clam, and youll have phenominal growth. The down side is that you will be using more power then a similar MH set up, spending more on bulbs, and more on the initial set up. At that point I really dont see any benefit to using t5's other then the broader heat distribution and greater potential for a good spectral mix.

There are 3 choices for your fixture.
You can build your own canopy and retrofit it. This will be the cheapest but requires you to build something(which I personally suck at), and come up with your own splashguard. Some don't use splashguards, but the reflectors stain easily, so Id highly recomend them. It just takes a few more minutes of your time to wipe it down every few days.
6 bulb Tek hood. This is the most expensive option. It is also very wide and wont fit over smaller tanks. You have to pay extra for a splashguard. Supposedly these come with really good electronic ballasts specifially designed for t5's.
Aquactinics 5 bulb hood. This is what I ended up getting. It was no were near as wide as the tek, cheaper, came with a splashguard and a fan. The reflectors are slightly better then the tek's, and the parabolic reflectors are arranged parabolicly. These use workhorse ballasts instead of the electronic triad ones. I havent found anything that suggest however that there is much of a difference between the two.

well hope that helped some,
Peace

 

[jezzeaepi]

Bulb choice is another big decision. If you go with the 6.5k GE bulbs youll get the most par, but its a much yellower light and wont "pop" the colors near as well. I went with ATI and UVL bulbs. I did a mix of 1 ati 12k, 2 ati blue+, 1 UVL super actinic and 1 UVL 11k. The overall appearence is that of a 14k~ish look. I could probably increase my par by 20%-25% by going all GE6.5k bulbs but I wouldn't like the look.

 

[dnjan]

The closer you can get it to your tank without transfering heat the better.

As long as you have good, parabolic reflectors, the distance between the reflectors and the water surface will have no effect (for reasonable kinds of distances that would fit in a normal livingroom and except for near the ends of the tank). Put your bulbs high enough that you don't need a splashguard, and you will not have the light loss that comes from having an extra medium that the light needs to pass through.

 

[onehawksfan]

I have PC lights with a splashguard right now with the guard 4" from the water level and I have to semi-daily wipe it clean because it builds up salt deposits. I couldn't imagine not having a splashguard - my lights would need to be 8" above the water. I might as well go MH if that's the case.

I thought I was sold on T-5s (mainly for the cooler temperatures - aka I don't want to get a chiller), now I'm rethinking a 250 or 400w MH. I guess there's no one right answer to go with!

 

[Scooterman]

I guess there's no one right answer to go with!

In most cases yes!
I really like the T5's for several reasons but for the reasons below, I want the best I can give to my tank!

indeed... it all gets back to having a plan. If you agree that you don't want to kill animals... do want to have a magnificent tank that looks better and better in time... then we must have a long term plan.

Most people will not keep a greyhound or a bull Mastiff in an efficiency apartment... and just because those that do still keep their dogs alive doesnt make it right or the dogs examples of optimal health and wellness.

Many aquarists admire the magnificent mature German, Japanese, etc aquariums...

These are aquarists that have room for say 5 mature corals and so they start with not more than say 8. They whittle out the few that dont fare as well or fall out of favor, then in 2, 3.. 5 years - they have a truly magnificent tank (50-100 gall in this example) with mature corals that look much more like they do on the reef... are more disease resistent... demonstarte behaviors usually not seen (types of polyp extension, polyp formation, planulation, etc)

By not stocking a tank too fast or too heavily, the animals do not waste precious energy on defense or recovery, but rather channel it into glorious health

Biotope displays also save you time and stress (less disease - Xeno or otherwise natural but stress induced from the unnatural crowding)

Put another way... if you say that you are that uncommon aquarist that does not empathize with these organisms as living creatures, has the money to treat the tank like a piece of furniture... and is willing to accept any extra work or mortalities to have a garden tank the way you want it - then that I can understand. I can even accept it. Its an honest answer even if I do not agree with the intentions.

But most aquarists are not that way. They just need a little reminder of how good things can be... and that we have an obligation on many levels here with the living resources that we admire enough to throw thousands of dollars of our money at

 

[jezzeaepi]

Check out what Anthony has to say about lighting here as well:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-08/ac/feature/index.php
Just saw that linked the other day and found it pretty interesting.

 

[onehawksfan]

"It's the dead horse that I'm trying to beat here. The recurring theme: please, please, please - quit obsessing over the search for the "Holy Grail" of reef lighting. It does not exist. From the advice above and an intelligent consensus from other sources, pick a reputable light system from an established company and be content with your choice." - Anthony Calfo from the link Jezeaepi posted.

All that being said, it doesn't seem to make my decision any easier! Thanks for everyone's input! I'm gonna sleep on it for a couple days before I decide which way to go. Leanin' towards a 250w halide though.

 

[Scooterman]

Can't go wrong with Ol, fateful
Regardless I think you will be happy, all these lights are so darn bright it is crazy!