The cheato ONLY method of reefkeeping

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Joined
Nov 23, 2005
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706
Location
seattle
A few differnt times I have mentioned to people that growing algae works great for reefkeeping.

Then people generally want to see some pics. So, I finally took some pics.

Being a broke college student, I have close to $400-500 between both of the tanks in the bedroom. Thats includeing EVERYTHING, calc reactor, tanks, stands, pumps, lighting , rock and livestock for both tanks.

tanks.sized.jpg



This is the tank that has the calc reactor hooked up. It uses the 2L bottles filed with 2cups of sugar and 1/4 teaspoon of yeast located next to the fuge to feed the calc reactor. The pH of the calc reactors drip is 7.7 with a calcium level of about 520ppm. The pH of the drip is so high because I made a secondary chamber full of marble chips (CaCO3) which the higher pH solution drips though. I belive this makes it a much safer calc reactor than many units on the market. Costing under 100$ for everything involved was also a plus.

The tank has a few powerheads in it and the return enters from a spray bar at the top which also ensures constant surface turbulance and O2 exchange.

The only filtration is the fuge filled with cheato. I feed it as many times a day as I feel like. There is a large engineering goby that lives in the fuge and is constantly stiring the large chunky substrate to prevent anerobic areas from forming.

The cheato grows at a rate just about exactly dependent on how much I feed. I tossed 6 monster sized prawns in one time when I was on my experimenting with over feeding kick. Never could get the tank to register any NH3/NH4, no2, or no3, and I was checking no3 with the low range kit. Its also never had any appreciable phosphates.



tank1_1.sized.jpg

And here is the fuge. Yes, Im growing monti-cap(brown/green) and pumping xenia in the fuge under 2700k lighting and it grows and seems totally happy.

tank1_2.sized.jpg


This tank has been algae scraped about 2 times during the first 2 weeks of setup. In the last year, this tank has never had me need any efforts to clean algae, nor has it been able to grow any. I added in some rocks covered with hair algae, the algae just kinda withered away after a few weeks and dissapeared.


The rocks and sand bed have never EVER had any effort made to blow detritus off of them, nor has any every been visible in the tank. The rocks just stay totally spik-n-span. While feeling bored one day, I stired the heck out of the sand bed. I couldnt even get the water to cloud up at all. Its like the sand is just totally clean pebbles with no detritus trapped in them. I belive this is because I dont skim. When I used to skim (other tanks), I had detritus like everybody else, and my rocks gradually got this little flakey filmy coating on them.

tank2_1.sized.jpg


This is the tank that I gave to my girlfriend. Its on her side of the bed and she decorates/aranges it how she likes. She says she cleaned the glass once in it, but it didnt need it. Thats the only maintence besides harvesting cheato that this tank has ever recieved. I uses a high flowing UGF under a corse sand bed. Everybody thinks thats the pinicle of nitrate factory, however I cant make it register any nitrates or phosphates either. Its sole filtration consists of that fuge with rubble and cheato in it. Her sand bed is so clean and detritus free with that UGF under there that its amazing. I showed one of the members on here how I can vigorously stir that sucker and it just wont cloud at all (since its a UGF, Im not worried about stiring it at all).
tank2_2.sized.jpg


Here is her fuge
tank2_3.sized.jpg


Her tank has also never accumulated any detritus, algea,nitrates, phosphates, cyno etc.


Anyways, I just wanted to share this method with you guys. I have played the DSB +skimmer game, the DSB plenum +skimmer game, the BB with skimmer game (hated how it looked and built detritus) and have had all methods FUNCTION for me. However, I was always cleaning algae, getting occasional cyno or hair algae spots, accumulateing detritus on rocks etc. Like I said, the other methods FUNCTIONED fine for me. However, this cheato only method has just been a lazy mans dream come true. My total maintence consists of topping off the fuge occasionally with chlorinated water straight out of the tap.


The only problem I have ever had was a xenia crash from an I2 shortage. I guess after a year on the same water, it ran out of Iodine. Added some and everything went back to great again.

During this xenia crash time, I went into panic mode and hooked up my old skimmer. After that, my phosphates increased and detritus became visible on things for the first time. I belive this is because the skimmer removed things which are required to maintain rapid cheato growth and green water type food to feed the micro organisms which feed on the detritus. I also belive that a chunky crushed coral substrate makes the best material for holding these micro organisms which devour this detritus. I look at the floating autotrophic algae cells (greenwater) to be the base of the pyrimid of a healthy micro organism population. Skimming removes this core base food.


Anyways, I see people struggleing on here just like I used to. I wanted to share this super cheap method that has worked really well for me on quite a few tanks now (more than just the bedroom tanks).

If anybody has any questions about adapting this system to there own tanks, just let me know, I will be eager to help. I am also inviteing flameing/debateing from anyone :D.
 
Nice tanks!!!!!! Thanx for sharing your methods. I say whatever works for each individual . I have a 75 gallon fuge hooked up to sps system with chaeto and caulerpa, but I also skim the crap out my system, and it seems to work for me!
 
Thanks for the pics.
That makes it alot easier to understand where your coming from.
Do you keep the light on the chaeto 24 hours, or just the same photo period as your tank?
 
wow, im glad SOMEONE can make the natural method work...
i ran my tanks off of refugiums only for many years, but was always experiencing algae blooms and problems with detritus, exactly the opposite results you are enjoying. granted those tanks were great for the first year and a half or so, but then just sorta went algae crazy after a while.
i also think a large contributing factor was the use of ecosystems miracle mud, imo a horrible product. the refuguims worked much better after i swiched out the mud to oolithic sand
for softies and a fair amount of lps systems like this can be great, but my problem is that i got into sps and they "wern't having it".
to get any serious coloration or growth out of my sps i had to change the system drastically; by increased flow, swich to m.h., add a large skimmer, and reactors(calcium, kalk, and carbon), and ultimately removing the sandbed as well. but i still think the natural method can be appropriate for alot of corals and critters that wouldn't do so hot in a sps system, so i guess it really depends on what kind of corals you want to keep.:)
 
Oooh I know that one!! Under Gravel Filter...which I never thought you could use in Saltwater seeing as its sand...wish I knew before I put 40+ lbs of sand in my tank lol :p:cool:
 
Cheers! DSB...macroalgaes....and skimmerless! Aite, we gotta go get beer.

lol...

- Ilham
 
So, I'm guessing you also take care of your tanks the same way Ilham?

Maybe you would like to share your reasons for doing it this way? People respect you on this board greatly, your words would carry more weight than my own.
 
Maybe you would like to share your reasons for doing it this way? People respect you on this board greatly, your words would carry more weight than my own

Don't think that man just cause you are pretty new to the forum. I enjoy reading your posts and you seem to be pretty smart! Nice tanks BTW! Great jobs you have done on them all. It's just another example that you can have success with a variety of different setups!
 
Maybe you would like to share your reasons for doing it this way? People respect you on this board greatly, your words would carry more weight than my own.

are we talking about sand weight or clownfish weight :D.. .. just kidding.

Hey could anyone explain me, how this under grabel filter works? ppplease :) .
or at list a link.
 
Wrightme43- Sorry I missed your question earlier. I dont reverse light the fuge or 24hr the fuge simply because I need a dark room to sleep well in at night. I have checked pH in the morning after a long dark night, it was the same, at least with-in the precision of a crappy little dr. wellfish test (+-0.2pH). So, I havent personally found the day night pH swing to be a problem. If it ever does become a problem, I will black out the fuges and 24hr or partially reverse light them.

Doodette- Just googled "under gravel filter" http://www.firsttankguide.net/ugf.php
This one is funnier though, http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/filtration/a/aa110397.htm"Under gravel filters best used in tanks under 55 gallons in size, and are NOT appropriate for use in reef tanks."
LOL! Clearly they are correct ;)
 
Just a word of caution here Luke, you should really do something about your electrical setup, that is a disaster waiting to happen, my friend.
OK back to your the regularly scheduled discussion. :)
 
liveforphysics my friend I really cant see how skimming makes detritus?? Using Chelato as nutrient export is a decent plan, it will help you bind up soluable N and P, but only that. Chelato as with all forms of algae/calurpas are designed to absorb N and P when it is in its soluable form but has no strategy for dealing with any type of particulate forms. Most all detritus, from fish waste to left over food is in particulate form for which the chelato will not touch. One could assume by lookng at your substraight and the particule size and the fact you have decent low flow that this form is being driven deeper into the substraight. Which will mean that in some point in time you will being dealing with it. HAving a low bioload and polishing the soluable N and P will hep defer that time frome but it will be coming.
In the use of algae as a nutrient exporter chelato is a good one, it produces very little secondary chemicals and usually grows about 10 to 15% of its body mass per month. It is however when lite an oxygen comsumer rather then a oxygen producer. So keep that in mind when it comes to DO content.
When we approach nutrient management we need to look at all the forms we have to deal with and we try to set up a filtration system that can deal with the overall picture. With the use of the chelato you have a solid means to deal with a portion of nutrient issue, but thier is still alot more that is left untouched.

Mike
 
[/QHer sand bed is so clean and detritus free with that UGF under there that its amazing. I showed one of the members on here how I can vigorously stir that sucker and it just wont cloud at all (since its a UGF, Im not worried about stiring it at all).
UOTE]

I love reading about tanks like this. I have been running my tank this way for 35 years and since I am one of the rare few with a UGF filter and an algae "filter" It drew my attention. I run my UGF in reverse very slowly, differently than you but the results are almost the same. I also use an algae trough above my water and slightly under the lights so it has the same effect but it's free to operate and the algae grows in a very shallow tray with fast moving water. This type of system has the best chance of longivity with the least maintenance and in my opinion, creates the healthiest inhabitants.
Good work.
Paul
algae trough and tank 35 years old this month
 
paul, love your tank,so if you provide a place for algea to grow, their wont be any in the main tank, sory for the dumb question, very new to this hobby...
 
This is Luke (Liveforphysics), ZooFreak is my GF's screan name, I didnt realize she was logged in.

Mojo-

I am certianly aware that the cheato can only use disolved coupounds. I am also aware that with out skimming, my autotrophic algae cells (green water) are not being stripped from my water. These cells are the foundation staple of MANY types of microfauna.

I am also a frim beliver that there are no (non-metal base) compounds that we produce in our tanks that a complete microfauna population cant eventually reduce a disolved organic compound capable of being taken up by the cheato.
 
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