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all excellent points......i bought the OM 4-way for my new tank that is currently being set up. i had issues with the plumbing and trying to keep it compact and hidden so i went with spa-flex pvc which helped in the plumbing of the four outputs on the OM to the tank. i wished that it could've been mounted in a better fashion.

as far as the timing - i need to check the timing as i thought it was more than 15 seconds per output. i thought it was 30 seconds but i could be wrong.... i think Paul is working on a adjustable timer for the motor in the future.

thanks for sharing your thoughts on the OM.
 
Mike!Thanks!I'll check on you when I'm done with the final diagram of the design. Meanwhile I'm looking forward to what you will come out next with Wayupnorth tank.More Power!

Joey
 
Thanks mike Can I get any extra credit for bringing up so many variations to help out my demerits :-0
The first post about a closed loop for a 55 gallon actually can be outside not submersed so I will give it a try all Ø.75"
The second post for my sons yet to be assembled 150 tank will go in the back wall as it already has 13 Ø1.5" holes 3 overflow drains 2 closed loop drains and 8 returns for the closed loop (it originally had two big pumps and a motorized ball valve pumping over 8000 gph into a closed loop we could not afford all that just got the one).
The third was just curiosity how could the tank be so clean with all those fish I mean I saw bleached coral in there for decoration and it was pure white all the time it seems to work well and I have seen two setups one fresh water and one salt that way (I am always looking at Fish tanks at any offices I visit and it is so different)
 
OK Ruth lets play.

Here is the idea. I am assuming your tank is 6 feet long and about 24 inches tall and has dual overflows on it. We are putting a closed loop n it using a OM 4 way with 1 1/2 in and 1 1/2 outputs based on version 3 which opens up output port 1 and 3 at the same time and 2 and 4 on the opposing cycle. This is a better version as these ports will be open for 30 seconds per.

Ok here is an option. I want the OM unit to be placed dead center on the tank with the motor facing the tank and the input of the om facing out. The plan would be to have two 1 1/2 thread by thread bh's on the side of the tank near the overflow (shown on drawing) coming out of the we would screw in (using silicone) a 1 1/2 male adapter. from their we would use a 1 1/2 elbow on the top one and a 1 1/2 tee on the bottom one. Then glue those two together and run the piping down to the input of your hammerhead.
Coming out of the pump we would use 1 1/2 piping (hard pipe) to the location of the OM unit, on the input of the OM unit we would screw in a 1 1/2 male adapter with silicone. then attach a 90 to this adapter and then join it into the pipe coming up from the pump. Somewhere along this pipe coming from the pump to the OM and also on the pipe coming from the drain holes to the pump we want to install a ball valve and a union so we can disconect the pump down the line for maintence purposes.
Ok so now we have water coming from the tank to the pump and then from the pump to the OM unit. Now we need to build the manifolds. I figure that if we have 4 outputs per opening we wont loose to much in the way of flow. So with two 1 1/2 inch port being pen at the same time from the OM unit, we can split them into 2.
Each manifold will feed two 3/4 inch BH's. So we would have a 3/4 inch thread by thread BH. On the backside of the tank we would screw into it a 3/4 by 1 inch threaded nipple, into that a 3/4 threaded female by 1 1/2 male slip bushing. To buld the manifold that joins to these we will do it with two 1 1/2 inch 90 elbows and one tee joined together by 1 1/2 piping. the 90's will slip onto the bushings and the tee will be dead center of the two point to the floor. Attached to the tee we will glue a 45 degree elbow. This will point the plumbing towards the OM unit. On the om unit we will attach 1 1/2 male adapter and then join the om output to the manifold via a 1 1/2 inch peice of spaflex piping. This procedure will be redone for all four manifolds.
Take a peek at the drawing and tell me if it makes sence??
ruthom_plumb.jpg


Mike
 
Matt
as far as the timing - i need to check the timing as i thought it was more than 15 seconds per output. i thought it was 30 seconds but i could be wrong.... i think Paul is working on a adjustable timer for the motor in the future.
From what I know it takes 1 minute or 60 seconds to do a full rotation. So if you have 4 individual outputs then it would spend 15 seconds per, If 8 then 7.5 seconds.

Mike
 
that makes sense.... i guess it depends on the version of the drum though. the version 3 drum on the 4-way is 30 seconds per port, from what i remember.
 
Mike, the drawing makes sense to me but I am getting a little lost on the written description. Just clarify as well my tank is 6' by 2' by 2' but only has one overflow that is drilled with 1 2" and 2 1" holes which I know will be for the return for the sump so don't think that will have an effect on this closed loop will it.
There is no problem as far as how you are suggesting placing the OM behind the tank with the motor facing the tank as so far nothing is set up so I can make room behind the tank.
Where I am space challenged is that I live in a log house that has no basement so everything will have to be contained underneath the tank. It will have a 90 gallon sump/fuge and I have had a metal stand built with the idea of hiring a carpenter to enclose everything once it has all been set up.
This might sound really stupid but I am really not clear exactly what a manifold is or what function it does. I do know what the ball valve is and have seen them but not used them and there is not one on my current tank. I am assuming that I can buy this plumbing in Edmonton or order it online?? Another option may be to just have you put together the plumbing package - if you do that kind of thing- and send it to me????
 
Wayupnorth - another option is to have Paul @ Oceansmotions send you the plumbing. I did the Plumb & Play package from him. He sent me the OM 4-way, the pump and all the PVC parts I needed to plumb the setup. All I did was send him a drawing of how my setup was going to be and he did the rest.

Mike may be able to do the same thing for you but I wanted to give you an alternative if he didn't.
 
Thanks Matt. I am just such a dummy when it comes to things like this. I know what I want just not how to get there! I was even considering maybe taking a couple of extra days off around the August or September long and driving (20hrs) down to Seattle to maybe be able to get the help and supplies. Still might consider as I could drive my Mom and Neice back to Vancouver (we are going to Alaska last part of August). I could just dolly off the holiday trailer and shoot down for a day.

Ruth
 
I was in the same boat as you when I started setting up my new tank. I didn't know the difference between a coupler, a reducer, an elbow, a Tee and/or how to connect PVC to bulkheads. I just finished plumbing my closed loop about 2 weeks ago and did the leak test and I only had 2 small leaks. *knock on wood*. Now I'm working on my return system....

Good luck with plumbing your tank. Mike is a great help as well as others on here.
 
For the plan I drew up it would be easy to get a shopping list for parts, I can do that for you. From their you can purchase them online or from paul. Just make sure the BH's are schedule 80. As per putting them together that would be something that needs to be done at the location of the tank.


Mike
 
Mike,
I have questions regarding the use of check valves. When should they be used? and where should they be used?
 
A shopping list would be great. I will buy what is available in Edmonton and order whatever they don't have on-line. Once I have all the new "stuff" expect more questions when actually doing the setup. Thanks so much.
 
Check valves have pros and cons. they work well in stopping the water from back syphoning, but in saltwater applications they can clog or stick in the open position. Now in saying that I do use one on my tank and have for about 4 years with no problem, But at least once a month I turn the return pump of and on a few times.


Mike
 
If you need help Identifing parts go to our equipment library (button on top) we listed hundreds upon hundreds of aquarium peices of equipment for just this reason.


Mike
 
Well I'll be snookered - here I said I did not use any ball valves cause I thought I knew what they were - on my current tank when in fact I have several! I could not find a manifold though. Am I looking for the wrong name?
 
Great info!

I have re- plumbed system twice and it looks like I am going to number 3. I am hoping that you could help prevent plumbing #4! LOL...

100 gal acrylic 60" longX 19" wide X 22" high, 30 gal (long) sump, mag 12 return pump, external 1200 gph pump. (will upgrade to 2400- 3000 later)

I was told that drilling more than a few holes in tank would cause stress fractures so on this advise I built an internal manifold (1-1/2") with three outputs and "Y" with loc-line. Oh yea, this is in regards to closed loop system. I am seeing a lot of you guys / girls drilling lots of holes. Was this just bad advise? Can I drill 5 one -1/4" holes in the back of (acrylic) tank with minimal worries? Will this add enough outputs for 60" ( 2 holes for intake and 3 holes for output) I then Y with the loc-line and have 6 directions to push flow.

I am not too excited with having to put the manifold into the tank. I was also thinking of plumbing in a spray bar for future pump #3 but am wondering if this is necessary. I am using 1" fine sand substrate and i imagine this would create a sand storm.
 
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fleetbox - I caught the comment in your edit line. I didn't know if you were aware of OceansMotions flexible nozzle, like locline? It comes in 1" and 1.5" is in the works. You can find it here: OceansMotions, and click on Nozzles.
 
Ruth the manifold is something you build out of Tee's and Elbows.

Fleetbox
I was told that drilling more than a few holes in tank would cause stress fractures so on this advise I built an internal manifold (1-1/2") with three outputs and "Y" with loc-line.
Well I dont know about that, you have to follow a few rules, as in not to close to each other, not to close to and end and not to many overall, but if you do that you should see any stress factors with 5 holes in a 5 foot sheet of acrylic.
Will this add enough outputs for 60" ( 2 holes for intake and 3 holes for output) I then Y with the loc-line and have 6 directions to push flow.
I would go with such big holes through the tank wall. If you are going to reduce from 1 1/4 down to 3/4 locline anyway you might as well do that on the outside of the tank, and not on the inside. For your plan you should do the math based on the pump you are going to use to figure out how many outputs you need. If you are at a 3/4 output (as in the locline) and then add a Y that is not going to double the output as you are restricked to the flow that can get through the original output hole (3/4).


Mike
 
OK ruth here is the list

8 x 3/4 inch thread by thread schedule 80 bulkheads
8 x 3/4 inch closed threaded nipples
8x 3/4 inch female thread by 1 1/2 male slip adapters
5 x 1 1/2 Tee's
10 x 1 1/2 90 elbows
4 x 1 1/2 45 degree elbows
6 x 1 1/2 male adapters
2 x 1 1/2 unions
2 x 1 1/2 ball valves

about 6 feet of 1 1/2 spa flex
and a lenght of 1 1/2 hard pipe

this would be for the closed loop


MIke
 
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