The Plumbing and Water flow Workshop
- Thread starter mojoreef
- Start date
Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:
- Status
Jiddy
Well-known member
WoWzer, that PH is so cool. Personally im anti-Tunze even thou they are a great product, i just think they are monopolizing the market. Im glad they have some competition now, and i love the design!
It is supposed to flow the kind of flow that a higher flow tunze flows, so my guess is that it will be priced in a similar range to the tunze streams.
Regarding the comment about Tunze monopolozing the market, I say more power to them for coming up with the product and getting it on the market. It isn't their fault that they came up with this product to sell that no one else has. Good for them for coming up with it. And good for these guys for coming up with what looks to be a great competitor.
Regarding the comment about Tunze monopolozing the market, I say more power to them for coming up with the product and getting it on the market. It isn't their fault that they came up with this product to sell that no one else has. Good for them for coming up with it. And good for these guys for coming up with what looks to be a great competitor.
Jiddy
Well-known member
I couldnt agree more chuck, besides im typin to you on a MicroSoft computer, lol. I just like to see variety. I read that the new PH will be great on low heat also. Do you have idea when the expected arrival is?
Hope you all don't mind me posting some questions.
my new setup is a 4 foot long 120 gallon with canopy... to be in the living room, it has to look nice, see or the wife gets mad
i have a pfo dual 250 and dual actinic hood sitting atop the tank, canopy on top (top off for heat)
i originally planned a manifold design to provide better flow via closed loop but the manifold will have to go under the lights, inside the tank...
i have dual corner overflows to sump with return via lock line in corners.
also a tunze in one corner
i plan on having a T with 2 intakes sitting in the water going over the side in the back to the pump - mag 36 pumping up 1" pvc to a T that splits to the manifold...
pic of original manifold design:
new plan
my problem is the tank is up against a wall, so not a lot of room to work behind, so rather than on a shelf, i plan to put the pump in the sump...i am not worried from previous posts on loss of head pressure
i may just use airline to support the outer corners of the manifold, as i dont know if it will support itself. i am using 1/2 nozzle pvc for outlet of each output area. these will direct somewhat downward.
tank without manifold:
this look like decent flow?
my new setup is a 4 foot long 120 gallon with canopy... to be in the living room, it has to look nice, see or the wife gets mad
i have a pfo dual 250 and dual actinic hood sitting atop the tank, canopy on top (top off for heat)
i originally planned a manifold design to provide better flow via closed loop but the manifold will have to go under the lights, inside the tank...
i have dual corner overflows to sump with return via lock line in corners.
also a tunze in one corner
i plan on having a T with 2 intakes sitting in the water going over the side in the back to the pump - mag 36 pumping up 1" pvc to a T that splits to the manifold...
pic of original manifold design:
new plan
my problem is the tank is up against a wall, so not a lot of room to work behind, so rather than on a shelf, i plan to put the pump in the sump...i am not worried from previous posts on loss of head pressure
i may just use airline to support the outer corners of the manifold, as i dont know if it will support itself. i am using 1/2 nozzle pvc for outlet of each output area. these will direct somewhat downward.
tank without manifold:
this look like decent flow?
Kensn
Well-known member
I have the same manifold as you if you get rid of the 2 end outlets. I put seaswirls on the 2 outlets on the side of the tank to give a varied patern to the flow. Then I put Ys on the outlet of the seaswirls to disperse even more. The seaswirls rotate in opposite each other and produce some nice random current. This is on a 4' wide 90 gal. If I did not describe well enough I can get ya a pic.
a pic would be great Ken, I think i know what you mean...
my problem is often making the project too complicated, so anything to simplify, and i like the idea of the 2 seaswirls rotating opposite to give turbulence which is what i am after
my problem is often making the project too complicated
, so anything to simplify, and i like the idea of the 2 seaswirls rotating opposite to give turbulence which is what i am after
Kensn
Well-known member
Ok , it was kinda hard with the lights glaring, and I unhooked my vho atinics to see the manifold better. The first 2 outlets go to the black loc line so I can direct them, and have valves on them for flow control. The second outlets are the sea swirls that have Y's on the outlets that you can not see on the pic. I'll get one for you in a sec. I know it is hard to see the white pvc, but my return comes up through my overflow and then T's there.
Kensn
Well-known member
And one of the Sea Swirl outlet. (who can find the tuxedo urchin? LOL)
Jiddy
Well-known member
Maryrosi said:
I emailed them and told them how much i am lookin forward to there arrival. They said about Spring of 2006 and price range from $295-$395, cant wait! Tax return baby!
Scooterman
Well-known member
Jiddy said:
We're suppose to get tax returns? Hummm
Jiddy
Well-known member
LoL guys, its what poor married people with kids get at the end of the year, lol
gman0526
Well-known member
Here's a 6 meg video from www.Melevsreef.com showing the pumps in action
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/melevsreef/video/vortech_lg.wmv
http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com/melevsreef/video/vortech_lg.wmv
Need advice for undrilled 90g BB tank, side-by-side sump, same water level.
Here are 2 versions: long (top) and short (bottom). Either will work.
Long:
I place some pictures to illustrate current state of water flow and plumbing, can delete them later - as you say.
Looks like a maze, sorry.
Now, plumbing is obscured:
Old photos, without corals:
Even older photos, with plumbing visible:
Principal drawings for a current state of plumbing:
Currently:
1. The sump is fed by 1" U-tube, return - by 1/2" flexible tubing from Eheim 1250 pump, 317 gph. Starts at the back end of the basket, directed down and along back wall.
Too strong flow for a my slow-moving and hiding fish (tassle filefish and antennata lion), created unusable spot in the tank.
2. Refugium bucket is fed by Maxi-Jet 600 PH, 160 gph, 1" flexible tubing passive return, to the front end of the bucket, 45 degree down along front glass. Tolerable, but preferably should be made lower.
3. Canister filter (I know, but current sump filtration is insufficient): Fluval 404, 300 gph, intolerable forceful flow, was added LifeGard CustomFlo, 2 spraybars and 1 jet. Top spraybar is directed 45o down, vertical - to the front. Jet - in the middle of the tank, to the left (in direction of the sump intake).
4. 2 Seio 620 powerheads, 600 gph each, soft flow, barely tolerable.
Left back top is directed onto front glass, reflected in-between 2 main rock masses. The second, left side wall, almost bottom - just along front glass to wash out front of the stones (the back is covered by sump return pump), and move debris in direction of the sump intake.
Short version:
Anyway, even 2000 gph can't keep debris removed and a lot of space is excluded from use because of concentrated flow. Could be because micron sock receives only 317 gph.
2 questions:
- How to rearrange and dissipate flow, so fish can use all the tank?
- How to plan the flow and which plumbing will be needed for an improved filtration variant? Here it is:
Canister filter and PH are removed. Filtration through the micron sock(s) in the sump. 2 pumps - the weak one (300 or 650 gph, any of them) works all the time, the strong one - Sequence Dart, 3000 gph, will be on intermittently - 3 times daily for 15 min only. It raises the h***, but it expected to be removed by this flow. Here is tank, that uses this system.
Pitfalls:
- undrilled tank
- side sump
- slow moving fish, concentrated flow is unacceptable for them
- debris should be removed - contradiction to previous
- I ordered Sequence Dart (external, not in-sump) and Ocean Runner 2500 (in-sump, at my knowledge; can replace current sump pump (Eheim, 300 gph) or be used for an intense flow instead of Dart).
Any ideas on making things better and some practical points will be greatly appreciated.
Here are 2 versions: long (top) and short (bottom). Either will work.
Long:
I place some pictures to illustrate current state of water flow and plumbing, can delete them later - as you say.
Looks like a maze, sorry.
Now, plumbing is obscured:
Old photos, without corals:
Even older photos, with plumbing visible:
Principal drawings for a current state of plumbing:
Currently:
1. The sump is fed by 1" U-tube, return - by 1/2" flexible tubing from Eheim 1250 pump, 317 gph. Starts at the back end of the basket, directed down and along back wall.
Too strong flow for a my slow-moving and hiding fish (tassle filefish and antennata lion), created unusable spot in the tank.
2. Refugium bucket is fed by Maxi-Jet 600 PH, 160 gph, 1" flexible tubing passive return, to the front end of the bucket, 45 degree down along front glass. Tolerable, but preferably should be made lower.
3. Canister filter (I know, but current sump filtration is insufficient): Fluval 404, 300 gph, intolerable forceful flow, was added LifeGard CustomFlo, 2 spraybars and 1 jet. Top spraybar is directed 45o down, vertical - to the front. Jet - in the middle of the tank, to the left (in direction of the sump intake).
4. 2 Seio 620 powerheads, 600 gph each, soft flow, barely tolerable.
Left back top is directed onto front glass, reflected in-between 2 main rock masses. The second, left side wall, almost bottom - just along front glass to wash out front of the stones (the back is covered by sump return pump), and move debris in direction of the sump intake.
Short version:
Anyway, even 2000 gph can't keep debris removed and a lot of space is excluded from use because of concentrated flow. Could be because micron sock receives only 317 gph.
2 questions:
- How to rearrange and dissipate flow, so fish can use all the tank?
- How to plan the flow and which plumbing will be needed for an improved filtration variant? Here it is:
Canister filter and PH are removed. Filtration through the micron sock(s) in the sump. 2 pumps - the weak one (300 or 650 gph, any of them) works all the time, the strong one - Sequence Dart, 3000 gph, will be on intermittently - 3 times daily for 15 min only. It raises the h***, but it expected to be removed by this flow. Here is tank, that uses this system.
Pitfalls:
- undrilled tank
- side sump
- slow moving fish, concentrated flow is unacceptable for them
- debris should be removed - contradiction to previous
- I ordered Sequence Dart (external, not in-sump) and Ocean Runner 2500 (in-sump, at my knowledge; can replace current sump pump (Eheim, 300 gph) or be used for an intense flow instead of Dart).
Any ideas on making things better and some practical points will be greatly appreciated.
vwmoneypit
one larg lps
hi sorry for the stupid questions if thier ia such a thing ...but is the balance to this pump the other side of the mbv going to the othe side not follwing ?
Scooterman
Well-known member
Don't understand this question can you explain some please?
plack
Sea Otter
Months after this workshop ended a scientist came up with somewhat different ideas on flow backed by science relating to corals in an aquarium.
Here is a link where you can read more about it :
http://coralite.net/research.html
The idea simplified as I understand it is to get the hole tank water volume spinning in a clockwise direction then reverse it several times a day or hour. Defenitely NOT using devices that change directions randomly or so often that the tank cant get spinning ( Picture putting your hand in a 5 gallon bucket and stirring it up) it is all based on alot of data
Read it for yourself. I wish i knew this a long time ago !!!
Paul
Here is a link where you can read more about it :
http://coralite.net/research.html
The idea simplified as I understand it is to get the hole tank water volume spinning in a clockwise direction then reverse it several times a day or hour. Defenitely NOT using devices that change directions randomly or so often that the tank cant get spinning ( Picture putting your hand in a 5 gallon bucket and stirring it up) it is all based on alot of data
Read it for yourself. I wish i knew this a long time ago !!!
Paul
dhnguyen
Pain In The Arse
Months after this workshop ended a scientist came up with somewhat different ideas on flow backed by science relating to corals in an aquarium.
Here is a link where you can read more about it :
http://coralite.net/research.html
The idea simplified as I understand it is to get the hole tank water volume spinning in a clockwise direction then reverse it several times a day or hour. Defenitely NOT using devices that change directions randomly or so often that the tank cant get spinning ( Picture putting your hand in a 5 gallon bucket and stirring it up) it is all based on alot of data
Read it for yourself. I wish i knew this a long time ago !!!
Paul
Yep I totally agree with the article's findings as well. While I am no scientist, I have noticed very positive results in my tank of having this type of flow instead.
2 MJ1200 stream mods on each end of the tank alternating every 6 hours or so is what I have going on in mine. Less electricity and no drilling nor plumbing required. The entire length of the tank's surface looks like a flushing toilet
Myteemouse
NOTHING
I'm gonna do that with the MJ mods kind different direction almost coliding in the front of the tank for a "boil" effect inthe tank along with the pump return from the sump!!!
NO drilling just the overflows already there in the tank!!
NO drilling just the overflows already there in the tank!!
- Status
