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No problem Skip. The concept is that you have a 3/4 thread by thread BH. so threads on either side of it. One the inside of the tank you attach the lockline. On the outside you screw in the threaded nipple. Its basically a peice of pipe about 1 inch long the is threaded all the way along it length. The other end you screw into the female thread end of a 3/4 female thread by 1 1/2 male slip adapter.
let me know if that cleared it up

Pump looks good. Let me know where the input water that is going to go to the pump is coming from, thats an important one.


Mike
 
Mike!Thanks!Sorry I only read your response now.Ok I think I'll have to bore a hole going to the bathroom so I can minimized the noise in the living room.I was talking to my LFS who had experiece using this pump and he said its a bit noisy.I'll make an enclosure in the bath room.Ok for the height of the base cabinet it's 39 1/2" I'll have to place it on the right side of the tank if your are facing the back.So following your set up I'll put it in the same height as the base of the tank to minimise headloss but piping will travel a bit thru the bathroom wall which about 8".I was reading your thread on Jleigh set up and it looks like I still have a lot of consideration to study.

I'm also modifying the location of the tank ouput going to the pump.I was doing some lay out in the overflow last time and it looks like it will be crowded in there with this output. I will put one on each side of the tank at about the same height of my return which will be midway of the tank height.

I'll probably receive my plumbing kit weekend next week so I still have that time to go over every detail.I'm inquiring on an Ampmaster 4700 as well, in case the noise of the other pump is intolerable.I'll order this as a back up for now and install it later when it arrives which is 4-6weeks because of the modification of the voltage and line frequency.

Would you suggest a spraybar like what Dr. B have done on his tank?
I'll post the plumbing pic again as soon as I can.Regards,
Joey
 
I'm baaackk! Well I thought that I had someone lined up to drill my tank for me and do the plumbing. I have most of the plumbing parts but was unable to find any loc line although I still have a couple of places to check. This is probably a really dumb question but I have to ask cause I don't know the answer. When I drill my tank if I am using a 3/4" bulkhead or a 1" bulhead or whatever do I have to drill the holes like 1/2 in bigger in diameter than the bulkhead I will be using. I have lined up a hole saw from a local glass shop and they are going to lend it to me together with the correct size bits that I will need. I gotta tell you my stomach starts doing flip flops when I think about this so if you see a post in a couple of weeks looking for a new 190g tank you will know that I messed up bad!
 
Hi Mike I have the plumbing now from Marine Depot and Im doing the boring tomorrow.I have posted a few pics in my tank thread on where the progress of the tank now.I was hoping that you might have a few notes before I completely mess up with my tank. :D :D :D

Hi Ruth!We are on the home stretch now.I waited for my BH to arrived so I can bring it with me when buying the circular so.This way I'm sure I using the right one for the BH.Goodluck to you!

Joey
 
Ok then. I have the BH so I will take them with me next week (shop I am borrowing hole saw from is closed on the weekend) and will match them up to the bit. Joey maybe we can get a deal on new tanks if we buy 2 - and we'll get them pre-drilled.
 
Well I am just getting as frustrated as can be. Now it turns out that the hole saw that I was going to borrow is probably for cutting glass so is a diamond bit that I would ruin drilling acrylic.
Mike what would be the downside of just going with 4 6100 Tunzes on a controller? If I also bought the magnet mounts I would be able to mount 2 down low and 2 up high or basically where ever I wanted them. I realize that I have to deal with the size of the pump for appearances and also the cost but am getting to the point that I think 4 powerheads will look a whole lot better than an empty 190g aquarium sitting in my living room - or worse yet a cracked one sitting out on my deck. :(
Thanks

Ruth
 
Wayupnorth said:
Mike what would be the downside of just going with 4 6100 Tunzes on a controller? If I also bought the magnet mounts I would be able to mount 2 down low and 2 up high or basically where ever I wanted them

Ruth

I want to see this Ruth. This ain't Mike, but I go for it!!!!! :D
 
Me too Charlie. I'm just thinking that with the Tunze's on controllers I would be able to get intermittent (sp) flow and at the end of the day would be moving way more water - ie: 4 X 3175gph for 6350gph vs. the closed loop run by my sequence barracuda which is something like 5800gph less whatever is lost from that to head and the OM device etc. And the biggest plus of all - THIS I CAN DO AND NOT HAVE TO DRILL MY TANK! It is already drilled for the overflow and return so basically I would be good to go.
My skimmer (BK 400) and calcium reactor (grotech) are en route so I am getting a little impatient I guess but the thought of actually drilling the tank is so unappealing to me that I actually had a hard time sleeping last night just thinking about it.
 
Even with the fact that you have to have them in the tank, I think with wise placement of LR you could hide them pretty well. This must be a pretty exciting time just waitin for everything to show up!!! That's one of my favorite times, the set-up. I agree that not drilling the tank is a good deal, less hassles and dangers, plus I just bet you'll be real happy with the Tunze. Good luck and put up some pics when you get ready, we'll be waiting.
 
Well with Joey's encouragement I am going to try and drill my tank. Either this weekend or next. I am still curious about just going with Tunze's though????
My next question is about using penductors on my returns to the tank. Would this help at all with flow? Good buy or just go with the normal return nozzles?
Thanks

Ruth
 
Ruth you have to feel good about it. Drilling glass is always a risk, so I would say if it is freaking you out then go ahead with the tunzes. On the penductors if the return pump is pressure rated they should work as advertized.


Mike
 
It's an acrylic tank Mike so everyone assures me this is much easier to do. I do some stained glass work as a hobby (in my spare time LOL) so know how difficult it can be to work with.
What is the downside of just going with the Tunze's? I am still not clear on this. I am going to try and drill the tank and will probably add a couple of Tunze's anyway but am curious as to the downside of strictly using them for flow.
I know this is dumb - but so am I sometimes - but how do you know if a pump is pressure rated. I have a sequence hammerhead. Is it pressure rated?
 
A tunzee Takes up space and costs lots of money other than that I think they would be fine.Just my 2 cent's.
:)
 
Yep, I read it all from the beginning, and it it is a particularly important thread. A lot of very good information in here too! ;)

ooPS!
Scooterman said:
Personally I think spray bars have a place, but I just can't find one lol, to design a spray bar keep these thoughts, I may be wrong but here goes. Lets take a bar that is drilled evenly throughout the length of the bar, by the time you reach the end I would have to assume several things, at that point overall pressure will be reduced drastically (taking it you making a rather long bar) & the holes closest to the inlet from the pump will have better pressure & flow than at the end. So with that in mind consider the I.D. of the pipe & how many holes you have to drill to meet that same I.D. at that point you will have no restrictions in the bar and your pump would be pumping like it was just left open, so to prevent this you can start off with smaller holes on the inlet and taper your way down the pipe, considering the diameter of each hole into the equation. If for example you have a 1" outlet from your pump, you will make 16 1/16" holes and you will have just about the same I.D. If you look at it that way your very limited or you will need a better pump to pipe I.D. ratio to really get the performance desired in a spray bar & I doubt you will ever achieve an even flow across the entire length. Just something to think about, make it and try it to see just how well it will work for you before installing it.

Firstly, I am certianly not out to get you "Scooty", and no, my ego is actually smaller than some other part of my anatomy. But heh; Let,s get some of this "hocus pocus" straightened around a little bit, OK? :p

Firstly, "relative area" is a "product" of the "square". So, It takes 256 1/16" dia. holes to equal the area of one 1" dia. hole. Now this is seventh grade mathematics in the "old days" ( my deference here to Boomer, and the "Cretaceous" ) and more like 5th grade these days. Just go ask your teenager ( if you don't live in "Cabrene Green" ). :lol:

Ok so: PI X R squared, or PI X R X R = area

one 1" dia. hole = .5 squared X PI ( PI X Rad. X Rad. ) = .7854 sq. in.

one 1/16" hole = .03125 squared X PI . . . . . . . . = .00307 sq.in.

Now, .7854 / .00307 = 255.83062 holes!

Well ,that wasn't so bad now was it?

Come on now, I'm being nice! So what's that "PI" stuff anyway? ( Tom Selleck? ) ooPS! Now I'm dating myself! And Boomer is still the winner! :exclaim:

Alright, so wait a minute here; I'm actually trying to help! ( hard to believe isn't it? )

For relative areas, you don't even need "PI" anyway. :idea:

The dia. of the "big hole" squared ( times itself ), divided by the dia. of the "outlet hole" squared, equals the equivalent number of holes ( for the same area ).

Now there is a lot more to "it" than this, and "Scooty" is quite right about the succesively larger holes towards the end of the run, as one method for "balancing flow". I prefer the "adequately sized manifold" method myself ( oversized ), since it is much easier for the average hobbyist to deal with, and likely more effective as well. ;)

No, actually I am not a hydraulics engineer, but I am pretty good at this, and happy to help anyone who wants to get it right to start with. Some "real engineer" ought to come in here and kick . . . :D ( PM me and I will help with this "under the crossfire" )

Anyway, Reedman covered this very early on in the thread, but it doesn't appear that anyone took note of it. Unfortunately, he then stated that "flow" will be lost with outputs near the bottom VS the top of the "water column".

OOps! You know if we got the "fluid mechanics" right, some of these spray bars might start to work too! Just a thought. :p

Happy reef keeping! > Wave98 :)
 
LOL you math is nice when used properly, I think your not understanding my statement, it will take very few holes to equal the flow of an open ended pipe, try it and see.
 
Well, actually, I did try it and see, and you are right about using the math properly. You might want to try it some time. :cool:

This is really hilarious, but if you really want to try it, then hook up whatever pump etc. with a 1" dia. outlet, and fill up a bucket while timing it. Now put on a cap with 16 1/16" dia. holes in it and see what happens! :rolleyes:

This just kills me, but I have 8 more lives left! God "Scooty", you have a lot of "courage or something"! :lol: :lol: :lol:

> Wave98 :)
 
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