Thoughts Please

[chris&barb]

Our 180g tank is a peninsula style where the return and over flow are on one small end of the tank(3 sides viewable) i just recently redid my return plumbing and now im getting much better flow from the sump to the tanks. heres the question. because of the location of the over flow on one end and the center glass brace of the tank i have to chock back the return line flow some or else the water level raises to where the glass brace blocks the surface water from flowing back to the over flow and scum will build up at the far end. i want to cut out the teeth of the over flow to allow more water over it with out it raising so much. how should i do it?

my drain lines can definitely handle the extra water

 

[DonW]

Our 180g tank is a peninsula style where the return and over flow are on one small end of the tank(3 sides viewable) i just recently redid my return plumbing and now im getting much better flow from the sump to the tanks. heres the question. because of the location of the over flow on one end and the center glass brace of the tank i have to chock back the return line flow some or else the water level raises to where the glass brace blocks the surface water from flowing back to the over flow and scum will build up at the far end. i want to cut out the teeth of the over flow to allow more water over it with out it raising so much. how should i do it?

my drain lines can definitely handle the extra water

A picture of the overflow would help, also is it acrylic?

Don

 

[chris&barb]

yes its acrylic, ill try to get a photo. i know i can use a router but dont really want to use something that draws 5amps and spins at 15000rmp so close to the tank.

 

[chris&barb]

i have these tapered rasp bits i can put in my drill and hog out the slots?

 

[DonW]

The problem with die grinder type bit is they catch and are not controllable if the back of the bit hits it will jump. I'd make a little wooden t jig for a router to stand on and plunge straight down. Do every other hole and give that a shot.

Don

 

[chris&barb]

alright, going to have to think about it ,thanks

 

[DonW]

If your really uncomfortable with the router. Make a little jig that will sit on the overflow and drill straight down with a brad point drill bit. Dont try it with a regular bit it will walk.

Don

 

[mmkeeper]

You might give a dremel a shot with the cutter bit.

 

[chris&barb]

If your really uncomfortable with the router. Make a little jig that will sit on the overflow and drill straight down with a brad point drill bit. Dont try it with a regular bit it will walk.

Don

its not that im uncomfortable with a router(im a carpenter) im uncomfortable with a router in my fishtank

 

[moortim]

its not that im uncomfortable with a router(im a carpenter) im uncomfortable with a router in my fishtank

I can't understand why? Don't fish like big electrical devices?:lol:
I like the dremel idea, I cut some pieces off the top of a 35 gal hex tank with one once.

Tim

 

[returnofsid]

I think I'd lean towards a dremel or Roto Zip instead of a router. Although, a small finish router would be easy to handle. I do agree with the concerns of using a large router in your fishtank though....lol.

 

[chris&barb]

i have some scrap acrylic laying around, i guess ill do some test and see what im ok with

 

[DonW]

its not that im uncomfortable with a router(im a carpenter) im uncomfortable with a router in my fishtank

Just dont drop it. A jig will make it plenty safe. Youll get it, not that hard. I would not use a dremel type or rotozip tool only because it will be ugly.

Don

 

[Jim Hart]

I just used a rat tail file on mine.