Top-off and water change project.

[DonW]

I have a top-off system that has worked flawlessly for a long time now. I decided that carrying water from the laundry room to the tank for top off and water changes was getting to be a real drag. I do a five gallon water change every other day. Although this takes less than 5 minutes I always seem to spill water. So before my floors are done I should fix that problem.
I attached a basic diagram but left off the top-off and rodi parts to make it easier to understand. Since I already have a 43g hex acrylic tank this is what will be used. Divided into three section 18 for waste, 18 for fresh salt mix and 7 for top off.

Filling the top-off and Fresh mix sections are typical. Split RODI connected to kent float valves. Its all controlled by four switches.
1. Flip off skimmer and return pump. (This is already switched, so no change).
2. Turn on waste pump and fill waste section then switch off.
3. Turn on refill pump until section is empty. This will disengage the top off.
4. Flip switch back to top-off mode.
5. Flip switch to drain waste into washer drain then switch off.
6. Turn skimmer and retun back on.

I'll post pics as it comes along.
Don

 

[The R/C Man]

Hey Don!

There is a post on RC, 240 gallon in wall(image intense). It is a huge set up with a nice little water water change station mounted on a plywood base with casters. It has two rubbermaid garbage cans mounted to it as well as a Mag pump for water circulation. It is also used to add the new salt water to the tank. The picture is within the first 10 pages of the post. I will try to find the link later. I can't get it from work because they have blocked it... My RO/DI water runs straight to my sump from the filter through a soleniod that is switched on via a float switch in the tank. There is a second float switch mounted above the first to act as a back up....

 

[DonW]

Would be easy to make a roll around. I just dont want to move any thing.

Here is a simplified design revision, should be alot easier and cheaper.

Don

 

[The R/C Man]

Looks Good!

I am a firm believer in keeping it simple but effective. The more "unecessary" componants we use in our systems the more possiblilty for a failure.

Someone was discussing my design with me the other day and he was trying to convince me to use individual actuators to open and close on my closed loop because it would be much cheaper than an Oceans Motions unit. Holy cow! It may have been cheaper but way to complex for me. Using microprocessors and such... EEEEK....

 

[DonW]

Here is the finished water change portion of the project. Just need to get it installed.

 

[The R/C Man]

Glad to see you are still at it....

Looking good! I can't wait to see the finished product....

 

[DonW]

Glad to see you are still at it....

Looking good! I can't wait to see the finished product....

Thats pretty much it. It will hang in the laundry room next to the washer, rodi and saltwater mix container.
One outlet goes to the sump the others to the SW container and washer drain.
The function is very basic:
Open the two valves with the black markings will start the pump and drain the sump to the washer drain.
Close those and open the other two and the pump will restart and refill the sump with fresh saltwater mix.
The pump has a pressure switch in the nose, so it shuts off by itself when the valves are closed.
The rodi will be connected to the sump line feeding my top-off buck with a kent float valve.
I did a test run. It took 6 minutes for the water change. Did'nt have to move a single bucket or drip a drop.

Used about 25$ in plumbing and 60$ for the pump.

Don

 

[DonW]

Got it mounted and partially plumbed. Just need to run the sump line.

 

[dwall174]

Nice design Don!
Just curious what’s the pressure switch made out of? Any brass wetted parts inside? I have rebuilt several ShureFlow diaphragm pumps on travel trailers before, I know the diaphragms are rubber & the little discs are plastic but aren’t there brass or SS pins inside?

 

[DonW]

Nice design Don!
Just curious what’s the pressure switch made out of? Any brass wetted parts inside? I have rebuilt several ShureFlow diaphragm pumps on travel trailers before, I know the diaphragms are rubber & the little discs are plastic but aren’t there brass or SS pins inside?

No wet metal parts if you get a saltwater model. This one was the replacement for the deck wash on my boat. Made to flow saltwater.

FYI you dont have to get one with a switch. The switch on the power supply works just fine. Besides you can get a much bigger pump for the same price without the switch. That just the one I already had for the boat.

Don

 

[dwall174]

No wet metal parts if you get a saltwater model.

Thanks that’s good to know!
The one I use is for my travel trailer & being that most campgrounds have pressurized water hookups the only time I really use the demand pump is when I winterize the trailer. They are great little pumps thou, self priming & it don’t hurt to run them dry.

 

[RandyStacyE]

Just a question...Could your system be simplified by using gravity taking out the waste water and have your SW reservior elevated so that it can be gravity fed back to the system?

I have a couple of my tanks set up on a automatic topoff using an elevated reservior feeding a float valve. My float valves have no minnimum pressure rating so they work by gravity feed. I like to have my RO/DI water elevated and on tap. I keep my main reservior heated, insulated, and circulating at all times for convenience.

 

[DonW]

It wouldnt work for me. My tank is in the living room and the rest is in the laundry room. Took 30ft of hose to get to the tank.

Don