Treating RO/DI water

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LarryB

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2005
Messages
185
Location
Seattle
I got my Aquasafe system about 4 weeks ago and I have been loving it. The tank looks great and the ammount of algae on the glass has dropped considerably.
So, when the water comes out of the unit the Ph is very low, about 7.0. I have been using a product called Bio-Sea buffer on the advice of my LFS. What do all the rest of you RO/DI folks do with you water before it goes into your tanks?
 
Larry - I don't do anything to it, and you really don't need to. Here is an article: Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria

Aside from the issues discussed above concerning the effluent’s pH when the DI resin becomes depleted, the final pH coming out of an RO/DI system should not significantly concern reef aquarists. Many aquarists with low pH problems have asked, for example, if their aquarium’s low pH may be caused by their replacing evaporated water with RO/DI water that they measure to have a pH below 7. In short, the answer is no, this is not a cause of low pH nor is it something to be generally concerned about, for the following reasons:
1. The pH of totally pure water is around 7 (with the exact value depending on temperature). As carbon dioxide from the atmosphere enters the water, the pH drops into the 6’s and even into the 5’s, depending on the amount of CO[size=-1]2[/size]. At saturation with the level of CO[size=-1]2[/size] in normal (outside) air, the pH would be about 5.66. Indoor air often has even more CO[size=-1]2[/size], and the pH can drop a bit lower, into the 5’s. Consequently, the pH of highly purified water coming from an RO/DI unit is expected to be in the pH 5-7 range.

2. The pH of highly purified water is not accurately measured by test kits, or by pH meters. There are several different reasons for this, including the fact that highly purified water has very little buffering capacity, so its pH is easily changed. Even the acidity or basicity of a pH test kit’s indicator dye is enough to alter pure water’s measured pH. As for pH meters, the probes themselves do not function well in the very low ionic strength of pure freshwater, and trace impurities on them can swing the pH around quite a bit.

3. The pH of the combination of two solutions does not necessarily reflect the average (not even a weighted average) of their two pH values. The final pH of a mixture may actually not even be between the pH’s of the two solutions when combined. Consequently, adding pH 7 pure water to pH 8.2 seawater may not even result in a pH below 8.2, but rather might be higher than 8.2 (for complex reasons relating to the acidity of bicarbonate in seawater vs. freshwater).
 
Thanks Nikki,

especially for picking out the quote. I would never have made it all the way through that article! So, in summary I can use just regular old RO/DI water to top off my tank with no ill effects? That is awesome.
 
Regular RO/DI is fine to top off with. Glad the quote helped! :)
 
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