video of my hyposalinty proccess for treatment of ich

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Does it do any good to quarantine if you've already got fish and shrimp in the tank that you didn't quarantine?


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Having a QT set up for both fish and corals is so important to long term success seems to be catching back on again which is a great thing:)
 
Kevin, couple of comments...why are you having to do a 80% water change daily? Along with SG, you want to watch pH very carefully. Why are you going to lower the SG in the main tank? You typically do hyposalinity exclusively in a QT tank and do not touch the main tank...keep in mind that once you drop the SG in the main tank all biological bacteria will die and you will be starting the cycling process again... also hyposalinity is for 4 weeks from the day SG reached 1.008-9. I'm sure you have read this sticky, but posting in case you have not: http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/f15/hyposalinity-treatment-process-27155/
 
On the super rare when ich makes it into one of my four
systems I raise temp and drop salt and add copper.

My question ,copper power is an awesome product, why would you not use it in the QT?
I have a 14 year old malfmoon angel that over the years has been in coppered water and he's going on for at least another 15 years.

Thanks for the video I love watching them!!!

red c
 
Keep in mind, you do NOT want to use copper with hypo, this will mean death to the fish...pick either copper OR hypo
 
Keep in mind, you do NOT want to use copper with hypo, this will mean death to the fish...pick either copper OR hypo

I agree. My understanding is lower the SG the more "free" the copper is.

ALSO. A BIG CORRECTION. main stream standard for hypo is 4weeks. in the video I stated 2 weeks. I personaly will be doing 23 days at 1.009 because I will be leaving town. fingers crossed is my only option, but keep in mind my daily mass water changes and use of UV account for at least something as far has helping rid the parasite.
 
Kevin, if it were my tank I would not place anything in the main tank until u return..the last thing you want to do when u return is to catch fish out of your main tank and do this all over again..plus to rid parasites from the main tank u should go fallow for a minimum of 8 wks......IMO if something is going to fail, rather fail in QT then main tank.but this is your call
 
Thats funny Kirk, did you paste that from lee's article?

I disagree , I know thats not nice

I'm laughing right now .

everyone copper power* is fine !!!
 
Kevin, if it were my tank I would not place anything in the main tank until u return..the last thing you want to do when u return is to catch fish out of your main tank and do this all over again..plus to rid parasites from the main tank u should go fallow for a minimum of 8 wks......IMO if something is going to fail, rather fail in QT then main tank.but this is your call


the "main" tank had been fallow forever....hasn't seen fish yet. and yes I have thought of placing them in my sumps so they will be an easy catch. undecided at this time.
 
Thats funny Kirk, did you paste that from lee's article?

I disagree , I know thats not nice

I'm laughing right now .

everyone copper power* is fine !!!


Are you seroius? you are "laughing right now"? This kind of attidude from a buisness and sponsor???? aint shopping with you buddy! you should be banned!
 
Kevin, my point is why even take the risk of adding them (ich) to the main tank if a complete hypo treatment has not been done..it is not worth it..been there done that..but again your call...just trying to help you from my experience with large tanks :)
 
Rob, I did.it is your right to disagree, and I disagree with your disagree. :bounce:
 
WOW !!!!!!
Are we not here to help each other keep our tanks healthy?

Is it right to laugh at someones impression or interpretation of the correct way to implement a process or procedure ??

What works for one may not be the best solution for others
 
So here is the question. This is a quote from reefkeeping magazine on line from Steven Pro

"The lifecycle of the parasite is interesting and important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish. After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again (Colorni & Burgess, 1997)."


Ok, so if a trophont only lives 3-7days on the fish before it drops off and encysts....and a free swiming theront can not surive in hypo, then why isn't say 8 days of hypo good enough? think about it!!!
 

Yes, thank you it very much goes to show my point. here is the qoute from the treatment paragraph.

"
[h=4]Treatment[/h]Given the variability the trophont stage (3-7 days on the fish), it is quite likely that at the time of the starting hyposalinity, at least some trophonts have already dropped off the fish and encysted. If hyposalinity is not effective (or not as effective) on these tomonts, they may be able to complete their divisions and produce theronts. As they may take 28 days (or even longer) to release their theronts, you would want to keep the hyposalinity going for at least that long. As discussed, hyposalinity is effective on the theronts, so leaving the fish in hyposalinity until you are sure all tomonts have completed divisions and released their theronts gives the best possible chance of beating the parasites. This requires maintaining hypsoalinity for at least 4 weeks, with 6 weeks giving more margin for error.
That covers treatment, now on to prophylactic use of hyposalinity. Cryptocaryon is not the only parasite that can infect new fish and is also not the most deadly. The danger with prophylactic use of hyposalinity is if the fish are infected with something else, e.g. Amyloodinium, you'll have to raise the salinity before you can start treatment - copper is more toxic to the fish at lower salinity because it is generally harder to control the pH. I would prefer to just quarantine the fish without treatment and be ready to treat them immediately and appropriately at the first signs of infection."



ok, so we are worried that a trophonts on the fish will ( and most like will, I agree) will drop off and encyst (tomonts) in the hypo treatment tank. Now these tomonts have been found to take 7 to even 35 days according to this article to mature and and become free swimming ( infectious stage) tomites. First consider that the trophonts can take up to 7 days to drop off, and now lets add the 7 days to the 35 days it has been noted for a tomonts to mature and now we have a protocal for a 42 day hypo treatment, don't we?

my point is that free swimming ich can't live in hypo and as stated, and as soon as you are at 1.009 there should be no risk of any re-infection from any hatched tomites because they can't live in hypo. agree??? so it really boils down to the only concern is the potential life span of the tomont (up to 35 days) and introducing the tomount back into the tank at normal salinty where it will continue its life cycle and re-infect the fish and/or introducing any freshly hatched tomites also is a consideration also.

so what about the tank transfer method to cure ich? here is one method http://www.reefnation.com/tank-transfer-cs-marine-ich-cryptocaron-irritans/

so now lets look at my 80% daily water changes in a relativley bare bottom tank with nothing for the tomonts to attach to.( which decreased their chances at reproduction)

after 7days of hypo all trophonts should have dropped off the fish and any free swimming ich should not live, so again we are only talking about tomonts. If one day 8 I vacume 80% of the water I should by simple math be be ridding 80% of the tomonts.
for easy math lets say there are 1000 tomonts to begin with. I suck out 80% on day 8 leaving 200 behind.
on day 9 another 80% removal leaves 40

day 10 leaves 8
day 11 leaves 2.2
day 12.........0.44

now I don't know where that last half a tomont is hidding so i'm not sure I can suck him out, lol. but the odds are really in my favor for a cure at that point PROVIDING there are no hatching and live free swimming ich that are reintroduced to a ich-free tank.

I'm just saying...we can read all the studies we want and listen to peoples experience ( wich I always do) but sometimes you have to take all the facts from all the sources and then think for yourself and ask the " what if's as it applies and is supported by previous studies, facts, and experiences.

take red c here for example. I TRUST all of his experince and took very seriously his claim that its safe to use copper safe ( not the safest form of copper) in hypo and based on that experince may give it a try. ( I just don't like people being rude for nuthin)

In summary, I want to leave my fish in hypo for 42 days!!!! but I'm not going to.
 
Kevin, I don't know if I buy your math and putting the fish in the main tank is a risk I would not be willing to take..but again your call..wish u well..let us know the outcome !
 
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