video of my hyposalinty proccess for treatment of ich

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Kevin, I don't know if I buy your math and putting the fish in the main tank is a risk I would not be willing to take..but again your call..wish u well..let us know the outcome !

where did I go wrong with the math?

why are we jumping to putting the fish in the main display after all i took the time to write. I would appreciate an opposing view based on the facts....and the math. where is it wrong?
 
My bad..I thought since u aren't going to complete the 42 day treatment that they would go into main tank? So where r they going?..the problem is the soon u expose the fish back to normal Salinity the trophonts will come back..just because u can't seen them doesn't mean they aren't there...can u gamble and take the chance that they r not there and do a shortened treatment, sure, but as I've said before, not the risk I'm willing to take..this is coming from someone that lost 11 of 18 fish all cuz of me not QT a SINGLE fish..painful lesson learned...so if u can complete the 4 wk hypo treatment I would ..if u follow Lee's article, keep in mind after the 4 wk hypo treatment is completed, you should keep the fish in normal Salinity in QT for another 4 wks. (I would keep for 2wks) the thing about large systems is that problems are Magnified exponentially (I speak from experience )..the last thing I would hate to see is your nice 312g get ich right off the bat. If u wanna talk further send me a PM and I will give u my phone number. :)
 
My bad..I thought since u aren't going to complete the 42 day treatment that they would go into main tank? So where r they going?..the problem is the soon u expose the fish back to normal Salinity the trophonts will come back..just because u can't seen them doesn't mean they aren't there...can u gamble and take the chance that they r not there and do a shortened treatment, sure, but as I've said before, not the risk I'm willing to take..this is coming from someone that lost 11 of 18 fish all cuz of me not QT a SINGLE fish..painful lesson learned...so if u can complete the 4 wk hypo treatment I would ..if u follow Lee's article, keep in mind after the 4 wk hypo treatment is completed, you should keep the fish in normal Salinity in QT for another 4 wks. (I would keep for 2wks) the thing about large systems is that problems are Magnified exponentially (I speak from experience )..the last thing I would hate to see is your nice 312g get ich right off the bat. If u wanna talk further send me a PM and I will give u my phone number. :)

my current plan is to transfer the fish to the 200g I bought from dave with some live rock from my new( clean) system the day i leave, and have my wife do a water change( with some amonia blocker) after 3 days. I will be home in another 3 days to see where the 27 fish are at water quality wise and take it from there and be able to complete a full treatment and post treatment qt. problem solved. I am sooooo relieved!!!

I thought it quite interesting though that in no acount in all the studies your referenced in the link you posted here observed the parasite lasting any longer that 7 days on the fish. it realy raises the question if tried and true cures for ich..which to my knowledge are 2-3. hypo, copper, and quinine sulfate take 28 days PLUS,( auqaunuat told me once she had an ich spot show up after an extended time in treatment), but if REAL cures take this long, it realy raises the question does some free swimming ich actualy make it through hypo long enough to attach to a fish OR does the parasite in fact live much longer attached to the host than the stated 7days???


when I came home today, and before I replied to this thread today, I noticed some suspicious markings on many of my fishes gill fins. if this is still the ich parasite then I can tell you that they have lived through 9 full days of 1.008 to 1.009 ( at 77 to 78dg) and not 7 like most studies claim to be the maximum. also the fish spent their first week in transtiion to hypo in a fairly strong concentration of "paraguard" I stopped use of the paraguard around 1.012 to ensure it would not affect my sg readings.

I once had a powder blue that made it throught the full hypo treatment and then a further 8-9 weeks of qt only to litterly die overnight after I noticed a rather large aprox 1cm wormlike parasite drilled into its side like a leech. this experience makes me want to try the addition of copper while in hypo...and further I am considering employing quinine sulfate in the qt tank after the hypo is complete.

Man this hobby is fun sometime!
 
it realy raises the question does some free swimming ich actualy make it through hypo long enough to attach to a fish OR does the parasite in fact live much longer attached to the host than the stated 7days???
I don't have scientific evidence to support this, but I would say Yes to both questions which is why 4 wks of hypo is recommended. FWIW (and in the future), I believe Lee suggests for tangs and clownfish to complete a full copper treatment since they are more prone to parasitic outbreaks. In all of this, you have not mentioned pH levels..I assume they are constant? This is one of the things your wife needs to check on and know how to properly buffer it in your absence. As huge swings of pH is not good for fish health.
 
PH? with 80% daily water changes I have not cared to even check! and here is why. my KH is the same in the hospital tank at the end of 24 hours as the kh in the water change water. i'm blowing lots of bubbles and I'm not running lights so that helps to minimize swings and the big one is ammonia is more toxic the higher the ph, so why would I want to purpously raise it if it was even low ( and I'd bet anything its never lower than 7.6 ever). yes, now that fish will be move to a large tank and not recieve the large daily water changes and replenishment of carbonate I will be checking both ph and kh and dosing accordingly.

I will have to take an experienced guess at the amount of alkalinity to add the top-off water my wife will use in my absence, this way she will just have to add the bufferd rodi up to the line of tape I will have on the tank. ( can't let that water evaporate and raise the sg, right!
 
fish do not care about alk, Ca, or Mg levels, so I would not add any supplements, save it for your reef :) Moreover, pH, Salinity, and temp are critical in a QT environment and should be checked daily.
 
fish do not care about alk, Ca, or Mg levels, so I would not add any supplements, save it for your reef :) Moreover, pH, Salinity, and temp are critical in a QT environment and should be checked daily.

I'm confused. I never said anything about calcium or magnesium. I only said that I will be dosing alk to hold the kh stable to prevent ph swings. did you notice in my video the manual refractometer, calibration soloution AND digital refractometer? or the digital titamium heater? I feel like you are pointing out the obvious as if I have no clue. I am a little more advanced than you are giving me credit for kirk. I guess we should prob take some time to talk in person and get to know eachother better! I do understand you are a very helpfull and nice person and don't want to get us going in a wrong direction. I will pm you my number. thanks!
 
Well, 28 days ended last tuesday and I've been raising salinty slowly. plan to dump them in the 300 tomorrow if the parameters match ( got the apex transfered from the 120 to the new 300 today). lost a dotty back to fungus and midas blenny to the hypo. but the rest faired well....4 banghia, yellow tang,sailfin tang, powder brown tang, hawkfish, starry blenny, sandsifting gobies, 9 clowns, 2 heniochus, cleaner wrasse, coral beauty angel, I think thats all of them.
 
update is fish have been in DT for 10 days now and are up to SG of 1.026. no more losses and everone looking good and healthy, no spots thus far.
 
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