Vlamingi Troubles

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Vicki & Diablo,

Do both of you QT everything wet and had anything wet been added in the last few weeks?

Even though this fish came from another hobbyists tank, I see no reason to rule out anything just yet. Personally I am leaning towards Vibriosis but more information is needed. Uronema is also an outside possibility.

If the problem has gotten worse after adding the Melafix, you might want to discontinue it if that continues. Either it's of no use and the problem is progressing in spite of the Melafix addition or the oil is exacerbating the issue.
 
Hi Steve,

I can't honestly say I quarentine everything wet, but I'm very careful when adding anything new to my tanks. Diablo also mentioned he had quarantined his only new addition. This tang has been in a quarantine tank about two weeks now.

I have discontinued the use of Melafix as of yesterday, and there has been three water changes since then. I did just add some Prime after the last water change on Lee's suggestion.

Vicki


Vicki & Diablo,

Do both of you QT everything wet and had anything wet been added in the last few weeks?

Even though this fish came from another hobbyists tank, I see no reason to rule out anything just yet. Personally I am leaning towards Vibriosis but more information is needed. Uronema is also an outside possibility.

If the problem has gotten worse after adding the Melafix, you might want to discontinue it if that continues. Either it's of no use and the problem is progressing in spite of the Melafix addition or the oil is exacerbating the issue.
 
well since it is a fish only I do QT everything that ends up in there. its all fish.
 
I can't honestly say I quarentine everything wet, but I'm very careful when adding anything new to my tanks
no sarcasm or anything intended:oops: , but if you don't qt everything wet, this is not a careful approach....everything must be qt'd !!!!!
 
no sarcasm or anything intended:oops: , but if you don't qt everything wet, this is not a careful approach....everything must be qt'd !!!!!

None taken Ron. I know the importance of quarantining everything.

Any other suggestions for helping this fish?

Thanks,
Vicki
 
I can't honestly say I quarentine everything wet....This tang has been in a quarantine tank about two weeks now.
OK, so was the QT set up just prior to the tang being aquired or was it always running? If just set up, was anything from your main/elsewhere used as a seeding source or was it set up sterile?

Please understand this merely to nail down the possible cause, not blame. It's all about the fish... ;)

well since it is a fish only I do QT everything that ends up in there. its all fish.
You have no snails, or other hard shelled inverts, no LR or added life except the fish?
 
Steve is probably onto something. There doesn't seem to be any pink, red, or black discoloration seen with Vibriosis but the other choise looks good on the surface: "The Uronema marinum is a saltwater parasite that can grow rapidly in aquariums where the water quality is poor due to large amounts of organic matter. Be extra careful with the levels of nitrate and phosphate if you are having problems with Uronema marinum. The Yellow Tang is especially prone to Uronema marinum infestations, but the parasite is capable of infecting a wide range of fish species, including all the other Tangs. Seahorses can also suffer from Uronema marinum attacks. In infected fish will begin to scrub itself against rough surfaces in the aquarium. It will sooner or later become extremely exhausted and rise to the surface where it can gasp for air. Its colors will usually fade and the skin will eventually begin to die. The skin will look slimy, hemorrhagic lesions will manifest and the eyes of the fish will usually turn clouded. If the Uronema marinum infestation progresses, the fish can become completely blind. Deaths are also common and recent research have shown that Uronema marinum do not only infect the skin and gills of the fish, but the kidney and brain as well."

http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/universal-id35.html

Are tetracyclene and various dyes still used? (malachite and methylene blue)
 
You'd be very hard pressed to tell the difference at a simple glance. It's why one is often mentioned with the other. Especially in the early stages. Fortunately the cure can be the same for both. Very strong/high doses of anti's can be used for Vibriosis but aldehyde/formalin products will kill both.
 
does it have a piece of large pipe or something for shelter? this can help with stress. before you start treatments get specific advice from steve on what type to use and dosages also since the label is of little use in a lot of situations especially if the fish continues to be kept in hypo.
 
OK, so was the QT set up just prior to the tang being aquired or was it always running? If just set up, was anything from your main/elsewhere used as a seeding source or was it set up sterile?

Please understand this merely to nail down the possible cause, not blame. It's all about the fish... ;)

The QT tank was setup for the tang and was setup sterile.

Vicki
 
You have no snails, or other hard shelled inverts, no LR or added life except the fish?
no snails no inverts and it has live rock. oh and there is a urchin in there I forgot about him I got him the same time I picked up the tang vicki has now. about a year ago
 
Steve,is there any way to get a pic of what this stuff looks like in some other case????
 
You can easily Google Vibriosis and get a but load of images but unfortunately with Uronema, you will find few if any. Visually they look very much the same in the early stages and without microscopic examination could not be discerned with the naked eye.

With the info Vicki and Diablo have provided, the culprit could be the Racoon added by Diablo a short time ago but the time frame is missing. At this point though I still think it impossible to rule out a parasite but it seems very unlikely. The Maracyn (Minocycline) Lee suggested can help in some cases but I think Gentamycin or Neomycin would have been a better choice given the possibilities.

Vicki, if you have not added any meds as yet, I would check with the LFS what gram negative antibiotics they carry and if they also have PARAguard, formalin or quick cure. The sooner the better.

How is the fish looking today? Worse, better or N/C?
 
You can easily Google Vibriosis and get a but load of images but unfortunately with Uronema, you will find few if any. Visually they look very much the same in the early stages and without microscopic examination could not be discerned with the naked eye.

With the info Vicki and Diablo have provided, the culprit could be the Racoon added by Diablo a short time ago but the time frame is missing. At this point though I still think it impossible to rule out a parasite but it seems very unlikely. The Maracyn (Minocycline) Lee suggested can help in some cases but I think Gentamycin or Neomycin would have been a better choice given the possibilities.

Vicki, if you have not added any meds as yet, I would check with the LFS what gram negative antibiotics they carry and if they also have PARAguard, formalin or quick cure. The sooner the better.

How is the fish looking today? Worse, better or N/C?

The tang is looking much better today since the addition of Prime.
I have all three of the medications you mention above on hand. (I also keep Koi) I thought I had Maracyn Two around, but can't seem to find it. I am pretty sure PetsMart carries that and can just run up and get some. I do have some ampicillin though.

Please let me know if I should treat or not.

Thanks,
Vicki
 
If it seems to be clearing up, let's see how that does for now but watch it very carefully.

Which of the three meds do you have?
 
If it seems to be clearing up, let's see how that does for now but watch it very carefully.

Which of the three meds do you have?

I have all three medications; ParaGuard by Seachem, Formalin (37%) by Aquarium Products and Quick Cure by Aquarium Products.

The 'spots' are still there and his eyes are still cloudy today, it's just not quite as pronounced as it was yesterday.

Vicki
 
Ampicillin works poorly in SW as a rule and is best against gram positive bacteria in general.

What I would suggest is getting one of the antibiotics I suggested if possible. Start on that and if by Sunday there has not been marked improvement, add the PARA to the fray as well. The antibiotic dosage will depend on what type you get.

What is the salinity/other water parameters?
 
Ampicillin works poorly in SW as a rule and is best against gram positive bacteria in general.

What I would suggest is getting one of the antibiotics I suggested if possible. Start on that and if by Sunday there has not been marked improvement, add the PARA to the fray as well. The antibiotic dosage will depend on what type you get.

What is the salinity/other water parameters?

I'll pick up Maracyn Two. What should the dosage per gallon be with that?
The salinity currently is 1.017. Should I increase or decrease?

Right after a water change, most parameters are at 0 (Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate). Nitrite and Nitrate will climb up to 10--20 during the 12 hours between water changes, Ammonia stays at 0. I've got a bio-wheel running on the tank, so hopefully that's helping. Temperature is 79 degrees. PH is 8.1--8.4 depending on time of day. For CA, dKH and MG, I haven't actually checked the tank the tang is in, but my water change water has Calcium at 400, dKH at 9 and MG at 1300, so the QT tank should be very similar. I am using RO/DI water too if that's important.

Thanks again for all the help!
Vicki
 
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