Water change pH/Temp matching w/ tank?

[Damsel13]

When doing waterchanges of say 25% or more how important is it to match the temp. and pH of the new water to the water in the tank? I am wondering if this would be extra important if a sick or injured fish is involved.

And if it is very important(as I think it probably is) how do most people acomplish this?

 

[Cajun Reefer]

When doing waterchanges of say 25% or more how important is it to match the temp. and pH of the new water to the water in the tank? I am wondering if this would be extra important if a sick or injured fish is involved.

And if it is very important(as I think it probably is) how do most people acomplish this? But maybe better asked in a seperate thread?

I would say that it is very important to match the temperature and pH. Any shift in temp, salinity, and pH can stress the fish, thereby making it susceptible to parasites, etc.

I match the temperature and pH everytime I perform water changes. When mixing my water in a 55 gal container, I have a Visi-Therm Stealth Heater ($17) and Coralife Digital Thermometer ($7) that I use to get my temp up to 80°F. I use a Sybon Portable Refractometer ($60) to measure my salinity / specific gravity; hence, those plastic swing-arm hydrometers are not always accurate. I also use a Pinpoint pH Monitor ($50 eBay) to measure my pH to get a more exact reading than trying to interpret what shade of color a kit came up with.

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...OD&Product_Code=PIN-PH&Category_Code=Pinpoint

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...duct_Code=REFRACT-HD&Category_Code=Hydrometer

Best of luck!

 

[Damsel13]

I would say that it is very important to match the temperature and pH. Any shift in temp, salinity, and pH can stress the fish, thereby making it susceptible to parasites, etc.

I match the temperature and pH everytime I perform water changes. When mixing my water in a 55 gal container, I have a Visi-Therm Stealth Heater ($17) and Coralife Digital Thermometer ($7) that I use to get my temp up to 80°F. I use a Sybon Portable Refractometer ($60) to measure my salinity / specific gravity; hence, those plastic swing-arm hydrometers are not always accurate. I also use a Pinpoint pH Monitor ($50 eBay) to measure my pH to get a more exact reading than trying to interpret what shade of color a kit came up with.


Best of luck!

Thanks so much Dennis. It sounds so simple when you explain what you do. Why couldn't I think of that. Oh well. I feel much more secure about doing my water changes now. And thank you for the links as my budget is ...well...what budget???

Debbie

 

[NaH2O]

Here is some more information: Water Changes in Reef Aquaria by Randy Holmes-Farley

(In reference to large water changes....)
In doing batch changes, aquarists should consider the changes in the water parameters that will result, and be sure they do not excessively stress organisms. Differences in salinity and temperature are most likely to be significant, and the larger the change, the more stressful it can become for the aquarium's inhabitants. If there is substantial ammonia in the new water, as there may be in artificial salt water or possibly in natural seawater that has been stored for a while, that can also be stressful. Obviously, any organisms that become exposed to the air can also be greatly stressed. Differences in other water parameters are less likely, in my opinion, to be particularly stressful during water changes, with the possible exception of certain trace elements which may be more toxic in raw artificial seawater when not bound to organics than after they have had a chance to become bound in the aquarium or in natural seawater. The normally encountered differences in calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, nitrate, phosphate, silica, pH, etc., are unlikely to unduly stress organisms during water changes up to 30-50% using natural seawater or aerated artificial seawater, in my opinion.

Here is another good read: How to Mix a Batch of Synthetic Seawater in Under Five Minutes

 

[Damsel13]

GREAT!
Thanks for the valuable info. NAH2O my tank water is a constant 80F how close does the temp have to be when adding the new water? I am sticking to what I have been using for the last 3 mo. which is NSW but I worry about how long it sits with and/or without areation?
I think I am going to take a rubbermaid tub pour in 15 gal. NSW stick a heater and powerhead in there. Another question I have is pH if it is the same water source, temp and been moving for a few hrs. you think the pH will be ok? I only have a test strip for pH and it is about 8.0.

Thanks in advance Nikki.
Debbie

 

[NaH2O]

I would try and get the temperature to match that of the tank. Just have your heater set to 80F for the new water. As for the pH, I would invest in a pH test kit or probe for accuracy. Do you do any testing other than pH on the NSW you use for water changes?

*moving to the chemistry forum*

 

[Damsel13]

Nitrites, Nitrates and total ALK...... the water I have been putting in just from my 5 gal. transportation container has a lower pH than my tank. Does that make sense???

 

[Ed Hahn]

sure....my oppinions why

transportation container has a lower pH than my tank. Does that make sense???

Yes to the above question.
My thoughts why this would happen are.
#1 that your salinity is not the same as your tank
#2 temperature is different than tank
#3 your salt is not mixed properly with powerhead long enough

I hope this helps,
Ed

 

[Boomer]

Nice post guys I will add that warm/cool water mxing is not a good idea. It likes to make things leave solution at times.

#4 the water has not equilbrated with the room air CO2 yet (actually kinda part of #3).