Haven't read the article yet, but to me it would make more sense to take the water from near the sandbed (or substrate). This would also get the detrious from off of the substrate as well. Not sure, though, because I am a total newbie.dnjan said:Seems like the continuous changes could be made a bit more efficient if the added water were a couple of degrees cooler, and the removed water was from the tank surface.
If the continuous water change pumps were set up to come on when the tank exceded a certain temperature (say, the temperature increase typically experienced soon after the MH's kick on), such a system could also help with cooling ...
Sorry, did not mean to offend. I was thinking of the heavier things like fish poop, shrimp pellets, etc that don't always stay in suspension (for those of us who do not have an overflow (or a clue as to what one is in this hobby--other than yikes--the carpet is wet!). Yeah, technically there is not supposed to be any extra food on the sandbed--but it always seems to happen.dnjan said:Supposedly, the detritus is kept in suspension with adequate water movement, and ends up going over the overflow (where some of it would be removed as part of the continuous water change process).
For norrmal (all-at-once) water changes - I agree that siphoning detritus accumulations on rocks and deadspots on the bottom is good. My temperature suggestion was specifically aimed at the continuous type of water change that Randy mentioned in his article.
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