Waveline DC 10000 pumps for close loop

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Reef
Joined
Apr 21, 2012
Messages
557
Location
California
Hello,

Well for the past year i have been building my system with the thought that i was going to use (2) Water Blaster 16000 pumps for my close loop. I didn't want to use an OM 4WAY(THEY HAVE CLOSED) so my next thought was a motorized ball valve but after research that wasn't going to work the way i planned either:(
Then i came across the Waveline DC 10000 pump with controller so now i am thinking using (4) of these pumps feeding (2) 1" inlets each on my close loop. This would give me 1330gph at each inlet @ 85watts max but would also give me (6) different speeds/flows to choose from. I know 1" won't process 1330gph so i wouldn't be pushing pumps to max output.

Let me know what your thoughts are please with this idea:)

Sorry i am old dog don't know how to post link to pump:blah:
 
Ok from what I am seeing the 10000 pumps about 2600 gph so I am a little confused on your math?? 4 of these feeding 2 inlets??
 
Thanks guy's,

It would be (4) pumps feeding (2) 1" inlets each for a total of 8 - 1" inlets on the close loop part. Since each pump is rated @ 2640gph > 2 = 1320gph each inlet. I believe you missed reading the word EACH above hope this makes better since:)


Thanks for your input!
H2O1123-2.gif
 
Ok makes sense now. I believe the each should be in front of feeding. Im not a teacher and I have horrible writing grammar so im probably wrong. That sounds good now.

Sent from my MB525 using Tapatalk 2
 
Hi mercenary-grunt
I hear you, wasn't much use for writing growing up in hobo camps but i do know how to widdle pretty good:) Just playing with you most of the time i don't even understand what i write.

This is for my 300 gallon system, i really like these pumps with controller IF they are quality made? My research so far shows quality inside and out to date.

Thank you for your thoughts and feed back!
 
Ahh ok I got it now. lol The pumps sound good but they are pretty new on the market so hard to tell if they stand the test of time, but they do sound good. I am imagining that your tank is already drilled for 1 inch piping?? or are you starting with a blank slate?? The only thing that is kind of a downer would be the amount of piping you would have both in and out, could turn into a bit of traffic jam which would make have to use alot of fitting and thus loose flow through friction loss.

What i try to recommend to folks is to have a plan on what the end game is for your flow. For me it is to try to keep detritus in the water column and then direct it as best as I can to the overflow for it to be processed by my equipment. So kind of a barrel role from back bottom to front and then up the front and out to the coast to coast overflow. With that of course you want two other main things, coverage (so lots of inlets) to cover the different formations of rockwork and then random to lower the change of detritus fallout. So now how you get their can be a number of different ways, in your case here you are using a number of different pumps, so your going with 4 pumps, which means 4 inputs (should maybe be 8 inputs so you dont create to much suction at any given point and then also to give you some redundancy if something goes wrong) then each pump feeds 2 outlets, so another 8 holes. Add that up and your going to get between 12 and 16 holes in the back of the tank, now add all the plumbing that goes with that (different heights, lengths and so on) and it could be confusing and difficult to do and maintain, that would be my worry going in.

What do you have in the back of the tank right now??

Mike
 
In addition to what Mojo and Mercenary Grunt have stated, I would also add the failure/Worst Case scenario thought process to your system.....

I call it the Murphy/Maxx Rule...

IE...nothing will ever go wrong while you're sitting there in front of it. It will always fail when you are out of town or have 5 minutes until you have to leave for work. Therefore, you should have back ups that can be easily and quickly swapped out for the defective part in as short a time as possible, (True Union Ball valves for plumbing anywhere you THINK you might need them)by someone who has absolutely NO idea what they are looking at or doing.

If you're going to have 4 pumps running on your tank as a closed loop.....buy 6 total so you have 2 spares to use in case of failure or maintenance.

Nick
 
Thank you for the input! My tank is already drilled for 8 - 1" returns, with (6) on the bottom and (2) at top front two corners. I have (2) 2" drains inside the tank at back two corners to feed close loop pumps, the 2" lines are tied together under DT and have (4) outlets to feed pumps.
My thought was tie each pump into drains and then come out of output with a single union valve then into a tee that feeds (2) 1" inlets each. Here is a DT tank shot hope it helps better understand inlet placements also show is (4) open inlets from sump.
I didn't want to use an Ocean Motion(to many problems) by the way they are now closed and after i saw the picture of mojo's ball valve i knew my plan wouldn't work. Then i found these pumps with controller and now have a cool way of adjusting flow with close loop inlets. I know the pumps are new but likeing what i am seeing so far:)

Mojo i have 5' of 1 1/2" flex from pump to top manifold per picture what do you think my head lose is?

Sorry about dirty tank pane don't want to wipe until filled with water:):redface:


IMG_0208.jpg


IMG_0223.jpg
 
my head hurts just looking at that... :)
if you didnt have those holes already drilled,
i would be telling you to get some tunze wide flow powerheads
and create a gyre, wth the powerheads hidden behind the rockwork.
and screw the controller, all on, all the time, forever.
 
Hope your head gets to feeling better:) I believe we all veiw our hobby different, so to me i am building art while some may get ill other's may be inspired:)
 
I have found it easier not to keep track of what comes out of my wallet. If I did I would find a different hobby.
Or the better half would make me wish I were ill.
 
Ok I got it now. So if it were me and I was presented with this tank as it is currently this is what I would do. YOu can go with the 2 inch drain feeding two pumps but remember that is going to create alot of pull inside the tank so make sure they are in the rock work where a fish cant get suck into them, but that they are easy to get to to clean when you have to. On the outlets I can only see 4 so I am not sure which way the others are positioned, But I would say that you need to split the pipe once it has entered, as in turn each oulet pipe in the tank into a Y with lockline so that you can get more outlets with 5 to 600 gph each. This way you get better coverage and it not to much flow in any one direction. I am imagining that you are going to bury these pipes/outlets in some rockwork so they dont show so bad. Also I would raise the some of the back outlets so you get different heights for your flow and again split the outlets for better coverage. On the top outlets I would not have both of them be feed by the same drain line, tie one outlet with a bottom that way that pump does not suffer to much. I would also point those upper outlets towards the center of the tank both front to back and side to side.

Your plan will work your just going to have to think out your plumbing pipe runs well as your going to have to run a bunch of pipe. On head loss I will post a link with some numbers so you can figure it out, but remember you dont count the line up that is covered by a line down, as in if you have a drain for the CL that sits 3 feet up off the pump and then you have an outlet that goes up 5 feet you would only have 2 feet of head loss, the extra pressure from the down cancels its equal going up.

One other thing, I am imagining that the elaborate plumbing on top of the tank is for some kind of sump return??, if so I think you need to rethink it.


MOjo
 
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