What brand of carbon do you use ?
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wrightme43
Well-known member
When I use carbon I use Kents reef carbon or Seachems Matrix carbon. It gets tossed in for a couple of days every month or so. Probley dont need it and it probley absorbs more good than bad. I dont know for sure.
Boomer
Well-known member
SeaChem Matix or Marinelands Black Diamond are about the best. SeaChem is a little more pricy but has better flid dynamic properties. Also good is Black Magic Super Activated Carbon by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals but is softer.
I use ESV carbon. I run it in the sump one week a month. I read an article about leaching PO4 from different types of carbon. Even the ones that claim to be phosphate free leached PO4. If someone has a copy of that article I would love to read it again. I think black diamond was the winner of leaching the least PO4.
Boomer
Well-known member
Most GAC will not leach PO4, especially if you rise it first 
Your request
http://web.archive.org/web/20030624...k.com/fish2/aqfm/1997/jul/product/default.asp
http://web.archive.org/web/20000918...m/fish2/aqfm/1998/june/features/1/default.asp
Your request
http://web.archive.org/web/20030624...k.com/fish2/aqfm/1997/jul/product/default.asp
http://web.archive.org/web/20000918...m/fish2/aqfm/1998/june/features/1/default.asp
Thanks Boomer. Printing them now and they will go in my files.
Printing them now and they will go in my files.
I personally use the TLF hydrocarbon. I like it. I also used the carbon sold by NorthCoastMarine and it worked well. The later actually fluidized better than the TLF carbon, but that is not a necessity anyway. If I could find a good source of the marineland in larger quantities, I would probably swicht to it.
I tried a bucket sample of the rowa carbon. I have to say it crackles more then any other carbon I have tried in the past and lasted longer to. Right now I am using the hanford nuke plant carbon from the boys in tri cities, it works good to.
For testing your carbon for P just do a phosphate test on some ro/di water and then drop a chunk of the carbon into the vile (after washing it, like boomer says) it will tell you pretty quick as to what it is leaching.
Mike
For testing your carbon for P just do a phosphate test on some ro/di water and then drop a chunk of the carbon into the vile (after washing it, like boomer says) it will tell you pretty quick as to what it is leaching.
Mike
tasos
Well-known member
chemi-pure for me ,also !
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Kent for me. Has worked well in my tank and dont plan to change.
reefpro
Member
Carbon in a reef
Yes, SEA CHEM or BLACK DIAMOND have given me the best results. I have always used carbon continuously in my reef. I change it every weak or two. I sometimes use the Sea Chem RENEW(carbon substitute) which seems to do well also. Im mainly a Sea Chem person. Not to change the subject, but I started using PURPLE UP today. Ill see what happens in a month or so.
Yes, SEA CHEM or BLACK DIAMOND have given me the best results. I have always used carbon continuously in my reef. I change it every weak or two. I sometimes use the Sea Chem RENEW(carbon substitute) which seems to do well also. Im mainly a Sea Chem person. Not to change the subject, but I started using PURPLE UP today. Ill see what happens in a month or so.
StoneyK
Member
As far as I know the black diamond is one of the only REAL carbons, it is actually mined.
the other brands, not every one,(little less $$) are processed corn husks and stuff like that not actual coal/carbon.
I use the black diamond myself.
the other brands, not every one,(little less $$) are processed corn husks and stuff like that not actual coal/carbon.
I use the black diamond myself.
Boomer
Well-known member
NEMO
Chemi-Pure is mostly carbon. The reason behind the meshbag is so you ca beat on it and expose new surface areas. Rinsing it will help but it will not last as long
dagamad
personally use the TLF hydrocarbon
That is a great carbon actually one of the first on my list but is way over priced and is the same thing a AP GAC, which is cheaper. It is a Lignite based GAC and is better for water application due to pore structure and molasses #. The reason I do not recommend these as much is that they have more dust, so it is not as user friendly and people whine about that It is made buy American Norit .
Mojo
Well, these ROWA people do not know much about GAC. I just about fell out of my chair when I read this;
Many low cost carbon products on the market place are washed in phosphoric acid as a final stage of their preparation and can release high levels of Phosphate into the water. Rowa Carbon Contains extremely low levels of Phosphate.
There is a BIG reason for acid washing GAC. It is AW GAC that is the most expensive not cheapest and the best. I wonder what your ash content is with that stuff, must be through the roof.
have to say it crackles more then any other carbon I have tried in the past
Gee, I wonder why that is Called trapped air you do not want that. Put some regular water in a container, now add the GAC. Ooop's I forgot put you pH probe in the container first and tell me what happens to the meter reading ( some GAC is treated with CO2 ) Big reason to always rinse GAC.
Viny
Kent for me
This is kind large pelletized GAC, it is designed for VPC (Vapor Phase Carbon) and not LPC ( Liquid Phase) it is made buy Calgon. Yes, it will work fine but is a poor choice. I told Jack Kent that when he decide to buy/sell it years ago but never listened.
Dl & reef
SeaChem Matix or Marinelands Black Diamond
You are on the ball
Stony
As far as I know the black diamond is one of the only REAL carbons
All carbons are REAL carbons are GAC, no matter what they are made of and Lignite is the best for our application, well, actually PAC is. Only charcoal carbon is the fake one and allot of LFS bulk buy this crap. You can tell what it is as it is hard and shinny. It is often anthracite coal. It is not activated at all. Its capacity is about 10 % that of GAC
Chemi-Pure is mostly carbon. The reason behind the meshbag is so you ca beat on it and expose new surface areas. Rinsing it will help but it will not last as long
dagamad
personally use the TLF hydrocarbon
That is a great carbon actually one of the first on my list but is way over priced and is the same thing a AP GAC, which is cheaper. It is a Lignite based GAC and is better for water application due to pore structure and molasses #. The reason I do not recommend these as much is that they have more dust, so it is not as user friendly and people whine about that
It is made buy American Norit .Mojo
Well, these ROWA people do not know much about GAC. I just about fell out of my chair when I read this;
Many low cost carbon products on the market place are washed in phosphoric acid as a final stage of their preparation and can release high levels of Phosphate into the water. Rowa Carbon Contains extremely low levels of Phosphate.
There is a BIG reason for acid washing GAC. It is AW GAC that is the most expensive not cheapest and the best. I wonder what your ash content is with that stuff, must be through the roof.
have to say it crackles more then any other carbon I have tried in the past
Gee, I wonder why that is
Called trapped air you do not want that. Put some regular water in a container, now add the GAC. Ooop's I forgot put you pH probe in the container first and tell me what happens to the meter reading ( some GAC is treated with CO2 ) Big reason to always rinse GAC.Viny
Kent for me
This is kind large pelletized GAC, it is designed for VPC (Vapor Phase Carbon) and not LPC ( Liquid Phase) it is made buy Calgon. Yes, it will work fine but is a poor choice. I told Jack Kent that when he decide to buy/sell it years ago but never listened.
Dl & reef
SeaChem Matix or Marinelands Black Diamond
You are on the ball
Stony
As far as I know the black diamond is one of the only REAL carbons
All carbons are REAL carbons are GAC, no matter what they are made of and Lignite is the best for our application, well, actually PAC is. Only charcoal carbon is the fake one and allot of LFS bulk buy this crap. You can tell what it is as it is hard and shinny. It is often anthracite coal. It is not activated at all. Its capacity is about 10 % that of GAC
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WaterDogs
Well-known member
I use Marinelands Black Diamond most of the time.
StoneyK
Member
thanks for the clarification boomer
Boomer said:personally use the TLF hydrocarbon
That is a great carbon actually one of the first on my list but is way over priced and is the same thing a AP GAC, which is cheaper. It is a Lignite based GAC and is better for water application due to pore structure and molasses #. The reason I do not recommend these as much is that they have more dust, so it is not as user friendly and people whine about that
What is AP GAC?? What does it stand for?
Also, you must know the next question is where do I get this same carbon TLF markets for much less then?
Alberto
Boomer
Well-known member
Albert
Aquarium Pharmaceutical, Black Magic Super Activated Carbon. Do not confuse this with their Black Magic Activated Carbon, which is a Bituminous coal. The BMSAC is Lignite based. It may be a little smaller in grain size than the TLF, about 1mm less but that is a good thing
Aquarium Pharmaceutical, Black Magic Super Activated Carbon. Do not confuse this with their Black Magic Activated Carbon, which is a Bituminous coal. The BMSAC is Lignite based. It may be a little smaller in grain size than the TLF, about 1mm less but that is a good thing
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