Where to get Weldon 16

[Macbeth417]

I need some Weld On 16 for sump I'm building. Can someone point me to a website or a local shop?

Thanks,
-Erik

 

[esmith]

Blue Sierra carries this.

I think that you could also use PROWELD http://h1069361.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=AMB110 which you should be able to get at any hobby shop.

I used this to glue together baffles and and inlet overflow for my sump, and it works great. But I am not sure if it is the same as WELDON.

Hope this helps,

Eliyah

 

[Macbeth417]

Thanks! I'll have to drive over to Blue Sierra tomorrow.

-Erik

 

[iaplarry]

If your closer to downtown Seattle try Laird plastics, they do sell retail.

Larry

 

[Elmo18]

I got lazy and ordered one from Tap Plastics. They're down in Bellevue. Or you can use their website: http://www.tapplastics.com . I just ordered a couple for in case purposes, and for some baffles.


- Elmo

 

[oregon gorge]

I got some in a pinch at McLendons Hardware in Sumner on a Sunday when the plastics place was closed. I think it was cheaper there too.

 

[jazznreef]

sump

are sumps pretty easy to build? i think i'm looking for a sump/fuge combo. i guess i could do separates though. really only beginning to decide. i guess you just buy the acrylic and cut and weld, huh? is there much more to it? any diy plans out there you're familiar with?

 

[oregon gorge]

acrylic

Well, I built our 336g tank with 1/2''. Would use 3/4'' next time if the tank is over 26'' tall though I think. Just one thing is the most important make sure the edges you glue are square and smooth. The plastics guy told me that the table saw is smooth enough. NOT!!!!!!! Dont fall for it, not a pretty glue line

 

[j.stagner]

Weldon 16

Your best bet for price is usually to order it online. If you gotta run to the store today, and you are near Shoreline, you can pick it up at Aquarium Concepts on Hwy 99.

 

[jazznreef]

sump

if a table saw isn't smooth enough then what is?

 

[Gordo]

The trick with the table saw is having the right kind of blade. I don't recall the exact type of blade needed though.

 

[j.stagner]

Acrylic saw blades

I have found that a 60-tooth blade works fairly well alone, but for better results an 80-tooth blade is better although far more expensive.

According to an article I've read, one blade that works very well is the "Freud LU-94-10". This article also suggests using a zero clearance table saw insert and a pair of blade stabilizers as well.

Since I don't have the kind of budget to buy all this stuff just for the occasional project, I just use a standard 60-tooth blade making sure that the cuts are made at a steady pace to avoid burning the acrylic. I cut the pieces just slightly oversized and use a flush trim router bit made for acrylic (from Tap Plastics) to make the edges nice and square.

The less precise your original cut, the more sanding, planing, or routing you will have to do. If you are using the Weldon 16 it doesn't have to be perfect. If you are using the capillary method (preferred), you will want perfect cuts.

Any of the guys at a local plastics shop should be able to set you up with equipment and advice, and have always been a good resource for me.

 

[big t]

I used a freud 80 tooth diablo blade tonight for some projects w/ acrylic. Wow that blade is perfectly stable, and makes a cut nice enough to use with out bothering w/ the jointer.

 

[DonW]

Diablo

For a throw away blade they are probably the best out there. A 100 tooth Forester will give you a almost polished edge.

Don

 

[big t]

:shocked!: Haha! That freud blade is about as top quality as I would probably ever get lol. I just got a kick outa you saying that a $50 blade is a good throw away blade.

Tom

 

[DonW]

Blade

Not junk, Just can't have them properly sharpened. The forest blades can be sharpened many times over.

Don