Which Tunze wavebox controllers & Tunze pumps & how many

[OldManOfTheSea]

I will begin saving for these right after the start of 2010.


Im a new problem to solve, James the aquarium guy who will be rebuilding my 240 (SPS system) and 40 gal breeder QT, has told me he couldn't guarantee that in doing for me a closed loop system, that the tank wouldn't crack. Now I readied a thread in RC where many not have a closed loop that there are ways about getting around this by compensating with extra pump(s) for my water currents. Now original I had in mind from early on suggestion to use the Tunze 6100, the question is, am I to stay with the 6100 and how many would I best require here? Also, im looking to have the Tunze controllers as well. So being the tank is 8'x2'x2' and the sump will be a 125 gal tank, how many tunze 6100 will I need here? I know at the start of the tank, I will not need any more then 2-3 tunze 6100, but I wish to buy what I will require here and have it once its needed to add to the tanks water currents at some later date. Also planning this with Tunze wavebox and TUNZE Turbelle Magnet Holders.

As of yet, im without a complete cost what this rebuilding will be as yet, for James not to long ago agreed to having the LumenBrights Mh reflectors, he just not knew about the LumenBrights when he answered me with that it wouldn't do. For i sent him a article on the LumenBrights and then after he thought that they will cost something like $250 each, I email him a link showing him their not even over $120 each.


He has gotten a new cabinet builder for the tank stand and canopy, were building the stand with a height under the tank of 40" and the canopy of course will be 18" and the full cost for both the stand and canopy is $2,400. On the return pumps, James agreed with the two return pumps of my choice, both Iwaki, one pumps 960 gph and the other pumps 1200 gph. But he seems to feel they cost to much, were as I tell him I will get what I paid for. The biggest issue on that is, I need pumps I could count on more then most other pumps for in my area, during the hot months of the year, we get many short term power outages lasting anywhere from 1-5 minutes at times. And I believe that the Iwaki pumps will kick back on with no problems.


I already paid more then $5,100 to the rebuilding of this tank, what cost is left is, what the lighting will be and filtration system with the 125 gal sump. Also a large UV, almost left that out, and what ever the Tunze pumps and its other items will run me as well.


So being that I will have to do this tank without a closed loop system, which tunze pumps would you suggest best and how many will I need for a 240 gal dominated SPS tank? And which controller(s) as well please.


I was hoping for something better to report on the rebuilding of my 240 gal to be SPS tank by this time, James who will do this is rather slow with some answers in return. For i was looking to have before the end of this year to have what will be my total cost to do this. Im still assuming for the most, that the cost will top more then $7,500.

Buddy

HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE

 

[OldManOfTheSea]

Being that im to do without a closed loop, im told that the vortechs generate less heat. im with little to no response on this and I wish to begin saving for it as soon as my X-mas shopping is done. Do tell me what you think of this:

$420.00 VorTech MP40w Propeller Pump Gen2
$420.00 VorTech MP40w Propeller Pump Gen2
$295.00 VorTech MP20 Propeller Pump
$295.00 VorTech MP20 Propeller Pump
$165.00 VorTech Battery Back-up
$1,595 Total

Now the idea behind the 20`s is, those will be setup off center from the middle of the tank blowing at a angle in opposite directions and the two MP40w will be at both ends of the tank. I spoken to a person at champion and he suggested to just buy three VorTech MP40w. I am up for suggestions, if anyone can be helpful in this matter.

And if you think that im to stay with Tunze pumps, then please do list your suggestion.

Buddy

 

[JoshF]

I've heard good reviews of both the Vortechs and Tunze pumps. There are of course as many opinions as people on here, but if you already know that a closed loop is out of the question, I'd lean toward the Vortechs. Member Roscoe on here has a similar sized tank and uses Vortechs, though I can't remember how many. Maybe send him a PM?

Cheers, sounds like a fun project!

Josh

 

[Chichas01]

Go with the Vortech's. You won't be disappointed. At least 3 if not 4 MP40's for your setup.

 

[roscoe]

Go with 4 MP40w and you will be good for you tank. These things are very versatile. When ever you feel like changeing up the flow a bit it is as simple as a push of a button. They put out zero heat into the tank so that is a plus. The only drawback with the vortecs is that you have the dry side hanging on the outside of your tank. Which shouldn't be a problem if it is in a place where you are not viewing all the time.

If you don't mind wires in your tank my second choice would be the newer Controlable Tunze Stream which is almost half the size of the older models and pushes just as much water. These also put very little to no heat into your tank also. Just as versatile as the vortecs but you have to buy a seperate controller to control them.

 

[OldManOfTheSea]

Thanks guys, and roscoe, you saved me time chasing after you for whatever data you could tell me. But one thing is changing at this time, I called around to other aquarium service people and they will call me back with a price quote to drill the tank and place in the bulkheads needed for a 1" pvc.

I called person to person in W. Virginia to a Rob who said he could offer me a certain deal on either pump sets. Still, I know that even by getting the drilling done and bulkheads in, it changes nothing in the cost of this tank, a matter a fact, it may be even a higher price tag to rebuild my 240.

I last thought the cost would run around $7,500, but I was wrong, after researching the tunze and such, i realized that the cost will be $10,000 or greater. In any event, if this is what I need as well as want, I will play the waiting game as I been doing up till now. In any event, things are rolling now, it be just a matter of getting the money together that will be needed for the 240 gal tank rebuilding plans.

Again, please people, do not make any suggestions for cheap equipment items. Im a old hand at having a marine system and know that if a person wants something good, they just have to pay for it, and in my case, im paying for it again to do the same tank, but im glad of one thing, I believe due to my age and patience I stuck with this idea all this time with little to no changes in my plans for it.

Now roscoe, you have a closed loop on your tank im guessing, your tank is 30 gals larger then my own, and with my 240, I will have a 125 gal sump. Is there anyway, i can view your tank setup and other images? With the closed loop, how many pumps are you using and what model numbers are they?

As of now, I not believe that I can start this tank before the end of 2010 for the cost I now believe will exceed more then $10,000 but this in no way changes any plans other then what the time frame will be on completion of this tank, my thoughts and dreams for this tank will remain intact. However im sad to not thought of certain cost items sooner and this thread with the knowledge that I will have further delays because of it, I wouldn't had began this thread on the assumption that I would had this tank ready and completed in a matter of 5-6 months.

Buddy

HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE

 

[roscoe]

I DO NOT utilize a closed loop for my systema. I Do NOt like them and are more work to than necessarry to acheive good flow and not to mention the energy the type of pumps you will need to use running 24/7. I use Tunze and vortecs for my system's flow. Here is a link to my build thread.

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42958&highlight=270g

 

[OldManOfTheSea]

I DO NOT utilize a closed loop for my systema. I Do NOt like them and are more work to than necessarry to acheive good flow and not to mention the energy the type of pumps you will need to use running 24/7.

I know few will not favor a closed loop to where as so many others will. Still its a subject just another subject and we all are entitled to our opinion. And myes, it will or would have a good strong pump and its well understood its to run 24/7. I had that all figured out before James tells me that he couldn't, or wouldn't do a closed loop.

Your tanks thread link is large, so I will try to run through it without missing any good points. But before i do I will say this, I readied a thread link at RC for what if your not a closed loop and it was pointed out that you can still have a great system with the correct water currents required, only you would, or I would require some extra pumps in place.

I hope roscoe that your chiller can hold out, that it not burn itself out before your ready for a 1/2 HP chiller.

I too will be having a 125 gal sump as your 270 gal tank.

The sequence pump is what i will pick for the closed loop system, if I could or do get it done.

I see you only drilled for a overflow box on one end of the tank, why is that? I would had two on both ends of the tank. On my 240 8' tank, I two overflows from both ends of the tank about 2' or so centering them off centered from the middle of the tank, I hope this makes sense in my explanation of it.

The tank is not running yet though. I just have the vortech and the tunze 6100 flowing in there right now. I have to say I am very impressed at how much water the mp40 pushes. It causes some nice waves in the tank.

roscoe, I'm looking at the idea to have a wavebox in place, but I get mix thoughts on that idea, but yet this all depends on if I can not get someone to do a closed loop for me. It is something that is running through my mind often and I can not find the correct answer to it.

04-14-2009
I know the aquarium is held together with silicone but I don't know about a crack on the bottom being able to hold the integrity of the tank. The crack isn't thick but I can feel it. Would there be enough pressure to possibly blow the bottom of the tank even though it has a solid top stand?

I know by this point in time your problem has been solved, for if I had that and seen it,, I would figured on that the situation would become much worst, for after all, the water weight a lone with the wet sand adding to the pressure. I'm sure you have to been feeling terrible at the time after all the work and planning. Sorry

I'm pretty sure roscoe that after what you went through that you understand my own frustrations and delays I had through the years, the worst part is, i can not do this myself any longer due to my disability for which my age wouldn`t been so much a factor here if i had complete mobility.

How thick would the new glass need to be? I can get a 1/2'' thick panel for $200

I have to believe you gone with the 1/2" and not 1/4"

Its $1900 to replace the tank with a new one or $200-$300 to patch it up. I sure don't have $1900 right now LOL

I know your frustrations at the time, im paying again for the same tank to be done right and the first time, I paid that Jeff bum more then $20,000 for upgrades as well when i still had the 180 gal tank as well, he done everything crappy as hell. And seeing as it was he done nothing right for me, im to have James check under the house in the crawl space to see what supports Jeff put in place.

My patience is being tested but my will is still running strong

Its been pretty much the same for me, I began planning my 240 SPS tank over ten years ago and less then two years later paying for it. By the time I moved into my new home, it was nearly paid for, but now its more then six years later and im still not enjoying and tank views of my 240, but still i remain with a great level of patience and still have no changes in my desire to do this, it will if even it takes another year happen and im sure their will be many in the forums who will breath easy that the long wait has finally came to a end. My will remains as strong and intact from the first day of planning out having a 240 SPS reef tank.

I am going to slowly start to transfer my LPS in mid July and SPS will be 3 to 4 months from now.

Myself, I hadn`t planned on having any or perhaps very few LPS for im more in mind for a total SPS dominated system, but im a question, you are placing your new arrivals in a QT before into your main tank, aren`t you? But I am planning on Acan's. I also hope you do very well for your Achilles Tang, me later, I have to do over my fish selection list, I lost the one I had a while back, it was when i was more determine to have myself a Gem Tang, but after everything I been going through and the extreme extra cost to make this tank happen for me, I may have too forget on the idea of having myself a Gem. Because also, much later on, I will want to move my twin tanks system near to the SPS tank and will make it with corals and eels (two mating pairs). I was for a while looking over the idea of a Ribbon eels pair, but i found that I would have to setup another 30-40 gal tank for live feedings.

Your powder blue looks great as well, I always remember this one hobbyist who quit the hobby for he couldn't never listen to reason. He gotten himself a powder blue for a 65 gal tank, and also he had what i thought wasn't around any more, a skimmer inside his tank. I told him his setup wasn't age enough or large enough for the powder blue. He instant messaged me a number of times due to ick.

I giving him a number of suggestions, one was not to place his hands in his tanks water if he can help it, the other was veggies, frozen peas and broccoli. His tangs ich cleared in a few days, and i told him that he had to wait in adding anything live to his tank, that if he rushes to buy more fish or corals, the ick could and will return. he didn't believe me, he thought he could add more corals anyway and like right away his powder blue ick returned. Again i told him, the same things, that this time after the ick is cured, that he should take the tang back to the store before it dies. It cleared again, but he decided to keep the tang, and ick returned for a third time, and this time he just let the poor fish die. And right after he called it quits with the hobby, this person lives some place in Astralia.

roscoe, im on page 43 now and it appears as your not a deep enough sandbed, I can see the bottom of the tank in spots. Myself, im planning to have a DSB of 4-4.5"

Thanks Reed! I will pass on the eel.

One thing about having a eel, it will let you know how well balance your tanks water is. At a new lfs I found in Cary NC, the new owners has a Zebra moray in their 325 gal main reef display tank, and I spoken to the husband for he mentioned that the eel not often fed and I ask him if his PH been stable at all time for if it drops only one number from 8.4, there be no changes in its diet, but if it drops even to 8.1, his eel will not feed then.

He agreed with my view to his problem for which he kept a record that every time his Ph did drop as I told him, his eel always refused to feed.

PB and Achilles is busy chasing each other around argueing about who is prettier

I have to believe its their aggression growing while the Achilles behavior could be far more aggressive, for if it be that I decide to go with the Achilles, it will be added in as the last tang or fish due to its aggressiveness.

Buddy
HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE

PS, brginning from today picking up my grandchildren from school, I will have them most of the time for for the next two weeks until they return to school on Jan the 4th.

 

[OldManOfTheSea]

I not know if I said this part im about the say, but I called around yesterday to other lfs owners for asking of them about doing for me a closed loop, if this can be done later on, I first need the new stand and 125 gal tank sump. My idea is that I would do the closed loop first before buying the pumps and controllers for the tanks water currents. In any case im sure that it will only add to the cost that I would still be needing 3-4 pumps still with controllers.

Yes I know, im willing to spend more for what I want most for this system, but I had this so well planned from the start, but it wasn't done correctly as I instructed the owner of fish world in what i wanted most for this system. Cost wise now could even be greater then $11,000. I know I could do this either way, with or without a closed loop, but this 240 gal SPS reef tank has been a long term dream of mine, I wish for it to be something, look like something done to look like a TOTM or year for that matter.

I need however to make a decision on the 40 gal breeder tank, being that is, it was drilled at the back of the tank, and everything as well needs to be done to the sump and skimmer. Again, this will only add to the cost even more so, but I need this 40 breeder QT in place with the main tank. It will however be in a different room of the house.

Only now am I getting a cost for what im wanting to have done, James has been extremely slow in giving me any price quotes, and it was only recent his giving me one for the tank stand and canopy. Still no quote on the main filtration cost and we already know the two return pumps I will have.

There is still questions to be ask here, one is, which UV should i go with? And im quite sure with that, im all done as far as any further equipment for this tank. James as well knows all about the number of cooling fans he will build into this setup. I will later after the holidays sometime go to downunder and speak with the person they have for this closed loop and I will first pay for that and then perhaps James work to be done after that with the two main pumps and plumbing work. I will contact Rob who spoken to on the pumps and controllers, he said he could work me out a deal, im not totally sure that his offer would be so much of a great deal or not, but one thing is for sure, with having the closed loop, I not need to think about buying a wavebox then for sure. And then the pumps may even be less, only time will tell once the system is up and running.

Now I like to know something from you all, Would you care that I taking my time and done things as best as I can or setup fast with what I have and buy what few pumps I can and buy more later as the tank ages with live stock.

Buddy

 

[cdbdis]

To close-loop or not to close-loop...a lengthly debate indeed. I'm in the middle of upgrading to a 300 Starphire from my 160 and after doing a lot of reading on various methods of flow I'm inclined to go the closed loop route. It seems to come down to personal preference more than anything inb the forums...as the primary reason for going CL is to get those powerheads (Tunze and otherwise...)out of the tank.

As for the susceptibility to cracking arguement...and being an engineer myself...I believe as long as you're running standard plate thickness on your base, 3-4 1" drilled holes away from the edges will not impart the flex necessary to propagate a crack and risk the structural integrity of the tank.