White Sand Gone Brown

[TauntingTony]

Does any buddy know of a good sand cleaning fish because I'm looking to buy.

 

[steve-s]

Brown algae will usually = Diatoms. A fish isn't your solution, riding yourself of silicates is the goal. It's the main factor in diatom growth. If this is a newly established/cycled tank, it will pass on it's own once the silicates have been used up. The diatoms will typically crash a few weeks after they first start. As long as no new sources of silicates are introduced (usually tap water use) it should never come back.

If you are using a low-zero TDS RO/DI water (not just RO only), future silicate introduction should not be an issue.

Cheers
Steve

 

[TauntingTony]

New reefer

Thanks for the in put I didn't know tap water did that.

 

[rorning]

I also have a newly cycled or cycling tank that currently has a diatom/brown algea bloom. My question is, if I have been using RO/DI water ever since I set up the tank, where does the silicate come from?

 

[steve-s]

Silicates are naturally occuring so it is more than possible the sand or rock may have carried in a slight amount. Enough to fuel the algaes for a short period. As I said though, without new sources of silicates, the Diatoms are usually short lived. What's your TDS out of the DI?

Cheers
Steve

 

[wrightme43]

Like The Good Steve said, diatoms will disapper. I have proof. LOL Check out these photos. It just takes time. New tanks get them and then if you use rodi water they go quicker, if you use tapwater they may keep coming back. This is my tank. The Bad Steve.

 

[Aly625]

there are a few ways to help get rid of the diatoms while they are still in your tank. nasserious (sp?) snails burry themselves under the substrate and will make a big difference. you can also get sand sifting stars or sifting cucumbers. sand sifting fish such as orange spot gobies or dragon gobies will help also. these critters are great to have in your tank even after the diatoms are gone too so add them now if you want.

 

[steve-s]

I would avoid the sandsifting star unless you have a rather large system. They are not well suited for captive life and often waste away due to lack of food sources. They are primarily carnivors so algaes really not on the menu. The cukes are okay but please be sure the tank is well established before attempting one. They are quite sensitive to the ups and downs of a new tank and will need a well established food source to sustain them. More often a young tank will end up in them starving depending on size and waste producing tank mates.

Overall, the easiest solution is eliminating the source of the silicates. Diatoms cannot survive without them.

Cheers
Steve

 

[rorning]

Hey Steve-s, what is "TDS"? It sounds like it has something to do with the RO/DI water. Is that a level that the LFS where I get may water would know? Sorry, I am pretty new to saltwater aquaria.

 

[reedman]

Personally, the best sand cleaner I have ever had is a cucumber from reeftopia. My sand was like new all the time (pure white). I have also used fighting conchs for this purpose, but I think the cuke was far more effective and I only needed one for a 75 gallon tank.

 

[steve-s]

Hey Steve-s, what is "TDS"? It sounds like it has something to do with the RO/DI water.

TDS= Total Dissolved Solids. When using a properly calibrated meter, it will tell you how many solids are in the water. The lower the reading, the more pure the water. If using RO only, the TDS can easily be as high as 50 depending on the source being used. Once/if a DI stage is added, it can be further reduced to 0-5 again depending on the TDS of the source water being used. Test kits are often not sensitive enough to test for elements or can't detect others at all. The TDS reading is most times the easiest and cheapest means of telling how pure the water is. If you own an RO/DI unit, how well it's performing and when the DI or RO become exhausted.

Is that a level that the LFS where I get may water would know?

They should very easily be able to tell you. You might also ask if they use RO or RO/DI. Only with a DI stage will phosphates and silicates be removed, using an RO membrane alone won't remove these two nasty algae fuels.

Cheers
Steve

 

[rorning]

Thanks for the info Steve. I do know that they (My LFS) provides RO/DI water, but I will have to ask them about the TDS of the water. From what you are saying it should be very low since they are using a Deionizer.

 

[steve-s]

The best way to find out if they are keeping up with maintaining the RO unit is to test the tap water as well. Knowing the starting TDS will tell you you that. If they can't provide that, I'm sure someone local to you can. It's always good to know what your paying for

Cheers
Steve