X10 and MH....what noise filter?

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reedman

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When I had the Icecap MH ballasts I had no issues with the X10s turning them on/off, but with my new e-ballast (250W by lumatek) I can't seem to get it to work without issue. I have a strong suspicion it is noise causing the problem (per many many references via google). My question is which filter to try. They have 5 amp, 10 amp, and I think even 15 amp.

Any advice regarding this would be greatly appreciated.

Please don't tell me to go to the hard wired controllers and the like. I have an AQ1 that is working great and have no interest is spending money on a new model when this is working well as is. Right now the MH light is on a standard timer, but with the temps on the rise I like the ability to shut off the MH when the temp reaches a set level.

Thank you!!
 
What filters your talking about? In-line filters to smoothen out the noise the ballast makes? I would think in that case look at the amp draw labeled on the ballast & get one that meets or slightly exceeds the current rating. So say the ballast reaches a max of 4.5amps then the 5amp filter would be fine, no need to go larger.

Show me what your talking about?
 
You have a 50/50 chance of the filter actually curing the problem. You may actually need both an amplifier and filter. I can check my x10 stuff this week end for a spare filter and drop it in the mail if I have one. Of course if you need an amplifier and don't have a house full of x10 then a control upgrade will be best.

Don
 
What filters your talking about? In-line filters to smoothen out the noise the ballast makes? I would think in that case look at the amp draw labeled on the ballast & get one that meets or slightly exceeds the current rating. So say the ballast reaches a max of 4.5amps then the 5amp filter would be fine, no need to go larger.

Show me what your talking about?
Scoot,
Here's what I'm talking about http://www.smarthome.com/1626/FilterLinc-Plug-In-X10-Noise-Filter/p.aspx

This is another option that I was looking at as it specifically mentions HID/MH lighting http://www.smarthome.com/4835/Leviton-Noise-Block-6287/p.aspx

You have a 50/50 chance of the filter actually curing the problem. You may actually need both an amplifier and filter. I can check my x10 stuff this week end for a spare filter and drop it in the mail if I have one. Of course if you need an amplifier and don't have a house full of x10 then a control upgrade will be best.
Don, that would be very much appreciated if you have one laying around. If not, I can order one and see what happens. If it doesn't work I am out $15-20. Still a lot less than a new controller.

Thanks!
 
Reed,
I am wondering if you got the old style of cord. Did you contact Lumatek and tell there there was radio interference problem? I remember Lumatek talking about a new cord.
 
Reed,
I am wondering if you got the old style of cord. Did you contact Lumatek and tell there there was radio interference problem? I remember Lumatek talking about a new cord.
how long ago was this Ed? I haven't had the ballast even for a year. So unless this was recent I don't think that is the issue. I hope that it is the issue, as that would be a simple fix. I'll do a little google-ing
 
Reed,
Call 1-866-369-8943. Tell them you are have RF problems. I am thinking the cord is like 15 bucks, I could be wrong.

I have heard nothing but good about their Digital Ballast. I want one or two of them.
Please let me know how it works out.

Ed:)
 
Also to what Ed said on a better cord, make sure your line voltage it where it should be. I think anything less the 115 VAC would be a big issue for these types of ballast.
As far as those little filters your posting me probably won't help much but wouldn't hurt to try it, I'd prefer the Leviton over the other..
 
Huh. Interesting. I have heater, fan, VHO all on X10 and working fine. Just this MH ballast is giving me problems. I would have thought if it were a line voltage issue it would have hosed up all of the X10 stuff. Maybe this is just my lack of electrical knowledge.

And just to be clear, the ballast works great. Just not on the X10. If I recall correctly it comes on and goes off or it comes on no problem but on shutting off it turns right back on again.

Thanks again for the information. I appreciate all the help you guys can offer.
 
Funny thing but some manufactures like coralvue highly recommends the shortest power cord possible because of such issues, I talked to the owner once & the ballast can be very finicky. Another option is to isolate the ballast completely but that would probably blow the cord distance thing. I would think most homes have a line voltage of 118 to 122 VAC, so that may not be an issue. Have you tried using it on another circuit completely isolating it? Last, try turning off your VHO's & see how it reacts to that. Fluorescents produce lots of harmonic interference.
 
Funny thing but some manufactures like coralvue highly recommends the shortest power cord possible because of such issues, I talked to the owner once & the ballast can be very finicky. Another option is to isolate the ballast completely but that would probably blow the cord distance thing. I would think most homes have a line voltage of 118 to 122 VAC, so that may not be an issue. Have you tried using it on another circuit completely isolating it? Last, try turning off your VHO's & see how it reacts to that. Fluorescents produce lots of harmonic interference.
Funny you mention cord length because this thing came with a ridiculously long cord so it is coiled and zip tied right now. Maybe I'll clip the cord and see if that helps. I can certainly cut the VHO and see what happens. The ballast is pretty well away from all other electrical in my cabinet. The VHO ballast is up on the hood and this is under the stand. The rest of the electrical is roughly 36" away on the other side of the stand. Not sure what the size of the electrical field we are working with here.

Thanks for the ideas on how to troubleshoot it. Electrical is such a strange beast. And to think I was going to go down the Electrical Engineering route...what was I thinking???
 
The distance from a fluorescent is very short, so that may not be an issue, possible the cord is receiving the interference but these are usually shielded. One other easy fix try a ground probe on foil that wraps the cord to help isolate it. Also call the manufacturer & see what they may suggest.
 
Most x10 controllers send multipal signals. The line noise will drop the the low plc signal which is read as a ON when it should be an OFF. This has been one of the issues with x10 since the late 70's. A large capacitor across the phase is the best fix but requires opening the panel or subpanel. Back when Onkyo came to the US amplifier market. The receivers would randomly haunt my house with line noise and the only cure was the cap no filters were made that long ago.
Reed no luck yet but ill rummage the closet after the boss wakes up.
Don
 
Ive never thought about using the x10 stuff for my aquarium... I have it working on my lights for my house and whatnot,

So i take it this replaces the timers. And lets you change something from the computer, ie light on/off, right?
 
Ive never thought about using the x10 stuff for my aquarium... I have it working on my lights for my house and whatnot,

So i take it this replaces the timers. And lets you change something from the computer, ie light on/off, right?

Don was running that way with the ocelot controller. I have a first gen auqacontroller that uses X10. It's not perfect, but for almost everything it works great. These MH are the first I have had any issue with.
 
Good news is that I hooked the halide up again with the timer and it appears to be working. Maybe just moving the electrical around and getting some separation solved the problem. We'll see if it lasts.
 
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