Yes, another sick tang thread :(

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fishcrazee

Well-known member
Joined
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Messages
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Iowa
I know this has probably been dealt with a thousand times here, but my new yellow tang has ich and I'm wondering if what I'm doing is enough.

I got my 2 1/2" yellow tang about a week and a half ago and he looked great at the store. Get him home and put him in a QT with a few rocks and for a few days all looks fine. Then I notice the dreaded white spots on his pectoral fins and how he's rubbing against things and sigh.........

Anyways, he's in hyposalinity water 1.010, temp. 82, I also have an airstone in there along with water turbulance from a HOB filter waterfall. I'm offering fresh greens, dried seaweeds and Formula 1 or 2, whichever one is the veggie. He picks at it occasionally, but he seems to be getting a bit thin now. Tonight I decided to dose with Rid Ich and I followed the directions at 1tsp per 10g. Is this the correct dosage, as I've heard you need to increase meds when dosing SW? Let me know if there's anything else I can do to get this little guy better soon, as I know how fast a fish can go downhill once they stop eating, and I feel like he may be headed down that path.
 
Stop!!

Do repeated large water changes and run repeated fresh carbon immediately. You want that Rid ick out of there ASAP. Rid ick cannot be combined with hyposalinity, it has formalin and malachite green in it (please confirm). Make sure you check the pH and get the temp down to 78°. I hope you have premixed water on hand..

Once you've done that, please verify all your water quality numbers including ph/alk. The chemistry is very improtant when performing hyposalinity due to the dilution effect. Buffer is commonly needed to combat low chemsitry. Then we can work on the lack of feeding.

Cheers
Steve
 
The hyposalinity solution seems to be doing nothing for him, so I did dose with the Rid Ich and he seems much better today. His dorsal fin is up and he's swimming around normally again as well as trying to eat some fresh greens. I'm not sure what I should do now, as this seems to be working and the hyposalinity wasn't? Can you explain in more detail why I shouldn't dose the Rid Ich along with the hyposalinty? Maybe an article I could read?
 
fishcrazee said:
The hyposalinity solution seems to be doing nothing for him, so I did dose with the Rid Ich and he seems much better today. His dorsal fin is up and he's swimming around normally again as well as trying to eat some fresh greens. I'm not sure what I should do now, as this seems to be working and the hyposalinity wasn't?
Hyposalinity needs longer than a week for you to notice a significant improvement. It will not affect the parasite stage on the fish (trophont) but rather inhibits re infection of the fish as the parasite goes through it's life cycle. The time on the fish can be just over a week on the outside so if newly attached trophonts are present when the treatment begins, it can take that much longer.

Although I can't say this with any guarantee, I am fairly sure what your attributing to looking better is the lack of spots? Most likely it was that time or possible the formalin in the Rid ich has caused the obvious trophonts to detach. The feeding increase is anyones guess. Could simpley be coincidence but again, can't say one way other the other with any certainty.

Can you explain in more detail why I shouldn't dose the Rid Ich along with the hyposalinty? Maybe an article I could read?
I doubt I would be able to find one but I'll see what google/scholar google comes up with. Basically it's a chemistry thing. The potential for the pH in hyposalinity to crash/remain low is a very dangerous. Both formalin and malachite green become toxic at low pH values as well as higher temps (above 80°). Formalin can also cause a rapid drop in O2 levels. While Rid Ich is not full strength formalin (11.2% vs 37%), the potential for disaster is still quite high.

Cheers
Steve
 
pH is at 8.2, alk is at 11.2 DKH I've lowered the temp and it should be about 80 degrees by morning. I will lower it a bit more after I come home from work tomorrow. Don't want to do anything too drastic too fast. He seemed better today, despite still having the white spots, and the only difference I can attribute it to would be the addition of the Rid Ich. He's eating some, although not like he was. Are you saying I should go with the hyposalinity tx and forget about the Rid Ich? I was thinking about raising the salinity and then starting the Rid Ich again, what do you think of that?
 
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I would rely soley on the hypo and remove the Rid ich. Formalin and Malachite green have proven to be very ineffective against Cryptocaryon irritans time and time again. It's no different really than most other meds of it's type. Give the hyposalinity the time it needs to do it's job. Be mindful to watch the pH, leave the temp in the 78° area and be sure the salinity (not SG) is always maintained at 14ppt checked several times daily.

Cheers
Steve
 
But how long do I wait using the hyposalinity, if he's not eating?! He is eating almost nil now and it worries me that he's getting weaker. The temp is down to 80 today and I turned it down some more. I will put the carbon back and do a water change tonight, but I am skeptical this alone will work? Is there anything else I should try feeding him? Anything else I can do?
 
There are many things that will stop the fish fromeating but hyposalinity is usually not on the list. If anything, it will improve the odds of getting a finicky fish to eat. Trust me, formalin is far from an appetite stimulant. :p

Hyposalinity will take about 4-6 weeks depending on when the last spot was seen on the fish and the salinity is guaranteed at 14 ppt. If using a hydrometer, your more than likely not low enough.

What specifically are you feeding the tang, what are the water parameters/chemistry and are you actually using a refractometer?

Cheers
Steve
 
No, I don't have a refractometer, just the plastic gauge. It reads at 1.010. the water chemistry was 2 posts ago....... his diet is in the first post
 
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If the alk and pH are still the same that's a plus. It would help immensely to know the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. :cool:

The foods you are feeding are fine but I was moreso looking for clarification on fresh or frozen and exactly what "fresh greens" might entail?

As for the hydrometer, @ 1.010 SG with a temp above 77 you can easily add another 0.0025 to that plus the possibility there may be trapped salt, dust or bubbles on the arm itself. That will bring you upto a minimum of 17 ppt. To high for the treatment to be successful especially if accounting for evaporation.

If you are unable to get a proper refractometer or borrow one, I would switch treatments to a good copper product. Preferable Cupramine by Seachem or a chelate with the appropriate test kit. Do not opt for ionic copper salts. Be sure you have completley removed the Rid ich first though.

Cheers
Steve
 
steve-s said:
If the alk and pH are still the same that's a plus. It would help immensely to know the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. :cool:

The foods you are feeding are fine but I was moreso looking for clarification on fresh or frozen and exactly what "fresh greens" might entail?

As for the hydrometer, @ 1.010 SG with a temp above 77 you can easily add another 0.0025 to that plus the possibility there may be trapped salt, dust or bubbles on the arm itself. That will bring you upto a minimum of 17 ppt. To high for the treatment to be successful especially if accounting for evaporation.

If you are unable to get a proper refractometer or borrow one, I would switch treatments to a good copper product. Preferable Cupramine by Seachem or a chelate with the appropriate test kit. Do not opt for ionic copper salts. Be sure you have completley removed the Rid ich first though.

Cheers
Steve



I have the nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia at 0. I have a mark on the tank that represents where the water level must remain in order for it to remain at slightly below 1.010 according to the hydrometer and I keep it there. The greens are from a spring greens salad mix sold for humans. It contains arugula, spinach and the like. He's not really eating that or anything that I can tell. The temp is at about 78 now. I don't see any spots on him anymore. His breathing seems slightly fast and his mouth is open. I'm mainly worried that he's not eating right now, not sure what I can do for him.
 
fishcrazee said:
The greens are from a spring greens salad mix sold for humans. It contains arugula, spinach and the like. He's not really eating that or anything that I can tell.
These should be frozen for a short term or blanched before feeding. Raw foods of this type are too "rough" on the digestive system and can cause problems. Do not feed anymore of this unless the fibers are broken down first.

Any sign of belly bulging?

His breathing seems slightly fast and his mouth is open.
Tang's generally don't close their mouths' completely so it's not that much a concern unless gapping. Breathing fast could be a result of the Rid ich, pH or stress. Retest to be sure everything is in line. Salinity, pH and alk shoul dbe monitored/tested at minimum 2x a day.

Is there any sign of a sheen on the fins/scales like glints of gold or excess mucus? Any red haziness?

I'm mainly worried that he's not eating right now, not sure what I can do for him.
Well to be honest, the formalin and malachite green aren't helping. The best thing I can suggest is keep altering the food types, feed in small quantities until you find what the tang will eat, add a liquid vitamin high in B12 to the water and soak the foods in it, keep the overhead light off to reduce stress but supply enough ambient room light so the tang can function easily.

Cheers
Steve
 
There is some very slight red color around the mouth and I think I can faintly see a small artery or two on his face. His body looks fine, except for this small faintly rectangular section on one side. It's no bigger than a dime. It just looks as if the skin there is slightly thinner. I re-tested and it seems there is a slight (between 0-.25) amount of ammonia, likely from the uneaten food? I also give him the dried seaweeds in a clip and the formula 2 small pellets. I've given him some steamed asparagus, v. small amount, that I had for dinner one night. He was eating all these things very well until the ich. There is carbon in there now, so Rid Ich should be gone. I'm going to start to raise the salinity and get some copper tx. I did a 25% water change last night too.
 
fishcrazee said:
There is some very slight red color around the mouth and I think I can faintly see a small artery or two on his face. His body looks fine, except for this small faintly rectangular section on one side. It's no bigger than a dime. It just looks as if the skin there is slightly thinner.
Keep a very close eye on this. It could be an infection or reaction to changing water conditions. If it gets worse or does not abate after a few more water change post back.


I'm going to start to raise the salinity and get some copper tx. I did a 25% water change last night too.
Be sure to raise the salinity no more than 0.002 each day. Should take you about a week to get it back to normal. Be sure you do not start adding the copper until the SG is about 1.020+.

Cheers
Steve
 
Reply from Makers of Rid Ich RE: Hyposalinity + Rid Ich

I wrote to the company about using Rid Ich and hyposalinity and this is what they wrote back.............

Subject:

Question Rid Ich+ effect on pH and hyposalinity
Date:

4/10/2006 3:16:19 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: Robert Rofen <[email protected]>

Fawn. Rid-Ich+ does not affect pH. Hyposalinity does not affect Ich while they are in the white spot cyst stage. Hyposalinity cannot be depended upon to get rid of Ich.

Here are the basics of -- What You Need to Know About ich

Ich infections of fishes under the best circumstances are not easy to eradicate and you need to understand the nature of this disease..

Now the truth about Ich and its medications. We at Kordon/Novalek are a scientific company with only professional grade medications. We do our very best to provide the latest and most beneficial medications for aquarium and pond fishes, but miracles cannot be performed. Whether the medications are for man or fish, they have their limitations. One of the most important limitations is that in fishes many infections start out of sight in the mouth, gills, and nostrils, where they are difficult to diagnose until it is late in the infection period.

This is particularly true for protozoan parasites such as Ich, that often are not seen on the fish until it is very serious in the mouth and gills, and may be too late for treatment. The first thing to keep in mind is not to introduce new fishes with other fishes before keeping them under close observation in a quarantine tank for 4 weeks or more, During quarantine preferably use a preventative treatment such as Kordon's herbal Prevent Ich , or Kordon's herbal Ich Attack, neither of which requires water changes during use, and are safe to use with fishes and aquatic invertebrates (snails, shrimp, anemones, etc.). the only invertebrates for which there may be a problem because of their fragility are bubble and xenia corals in marine aquariums. If you use the very effective and potent chemical medication Kordon's Rid-Ich+, be sure you make partial water changes each day to get rid of the toxins building up in the water

Also, you need to know that new species of Ich have been discovered that have a much longer life cycle in the dormant stage of up to several weeks or more. When Ich is in the dormant "white spot" stage, there is no known treatment to eradicate them. Ich can only be eliminated when the mature adult hatches out of the white spot cysts and reproduces. If you skip any days in treatment when the adults are hatching out, there can be reinfection by Ich that starts the cycle over.again. All medications are for the free-swimming stage which is very short in duration -- at most usually18 hours. This means that when the Ich is in the white spot cyst stage, there is no known treatment. Since the individual Ich cysts are usually formed over a number of days, no one can know when they will hatch out, so daily treatments are essential.

Getting rid of Ich can easily be missed if the treatments are not every day to kill the free-swimming stage, which is so tiny that it cannot be seen by regular eyesight. To have more numerous spots reappearing on the fish means, in all cases that we know about, that there was a lapse in treatment. Treatments should continue for at least 3 days (and preferably 4 days) after the last of the white spots are gone from the fish, and this means gone from inside the mouth, gills, and nostrils of the fish as well, where Ich prefers to form the white spot cysts. When the tomonts hatch out from the white spots, they take only a few hours to start reproducing, each producing hundreds of ciliated theronts that reinfect the fish, once again forming the white spot cysts in which they hibernate until they are ready to hatch out again.

One way to deal with Ich is to raise the temperature of the water several degrees to about 80-83 degrees, thereby speeding up the life cycle and providing the opportunity for the medication to work faster in eliminating Ich. When you do this, in severe cases you may need to make two treatments per day -- one in the morning and the other in the afternoon or evening, because of the speeded up life cycle.

Be sure that there is plenty of aeration for oxygen in the water. for the fishes. You may need to increase aeration with air stones or water pump at this time. Otherwise, maintain the water temperature to its normal level of 72-75 degrees for the fish to have sufficient oxygen.

Also be aware that since the Ich infection often starts internally in the mouth, gills, and nostrils of the fish. Ich may be difficult to identify until the infection spreads outside on the body and fins of the fish, days after the original internal infection. By the time you see the white spots on the body of the fish, the infection is far advanced. In some cases it is too late to save the fishes with medication. Sometimes the infection remains internal in this way and the reason for fish deaths are not discovered by the aquarist or pond keeper.

Since there are different species of Ich (all hard to separtately identify) that have different lengths of time in their life cycles, there is not a set number of days for treatment. It can be up to 32 days before the white spots hatch out. Or for the shortest time in the cyst stage it can be three days to a week. Each white spot when it hatches can produce hundreds of infecting young which reattach to the fish.

You need to treat each day until every white spot is gone. Skipping a day can cause hundreds or thousands of new infections. Once again, keep in mind that Ich can be in the mouth, gills, and nostrils of the fish as well as on the outside of the fish, and cannot be seen externally when its entire infection is internal. Always treat for 3-4 days after the last white spot is gone to be sure none are missed.

For treatments with Kordon's Rid-Ich+ you need to make partial water changes each day before each subsequent dose to get rid of toxins building up in the water. For these needed water changes we recommend your using Kordon NovAqua+ to help the immune system of the fish resist infection, together with Kordon AmQuel+ to detoxify all forms of toxic nitrogen compounds (Ammonia/ammonium, Nitrites, Nitrates, Pheromones, etc.). Both water conditioners eliminate the chlorines and chloramines containing ammonia/ammonium that are added by municipal water suppliers. For further information go to our web site www.novalek.com and type Ich in the search box. You will receive a list of pages with information that should be of help to you. /.R3

At 08:33 AM 4/10/2006, you wrote:
 
The Tang did die, sorry to report :( The white spots disappeared, but I believe he was so weakend and stressed from days of not eating, that he succumbed to a secondary infection, poor thing.
 
Sorry to hear about the tang, a loss is always tough. A short stint without food will not be the cause of death. As far as secondary infection goes, I would need to see a picture of the infected fish but I have my doubts.

In regards to your post from Novalek, nice marketing lingo but that's about it. There are some truths to what they say but also alot of nonsense. Hyposalinity is a well proven cure for Cryptocaryon irritans, forlmalin and malachite green are not. It has been proven time and time again. I think there's some Ichthyophthirius multifiliis bias occuring there.

You have a right to be sceptical, there is much conflicting info in print and on the web. I ask you to ponder this though, what do I have to gain by helping you use a free treatment?

Cheers
Steve
 
Oh I know, they are trying to sell their product, but I like to explore all the info out there and see what's what :) I thank you for your help, I'm sure if the tang had lived longer, the hyposalinty would have proven affective. The fish may have very well been ill when I got him, hard to say, although he looked healthy. I just posted his response so people could see what he had to say. I've read many more article about hyposalinty working than not, and I trust the people on this forum more than I would some guy being paid to push Rid Ich. I really just wanted to see what they said.

I feel bad about the little tang...... maybe next time I'll get it right and won't kill the poor fish :(
 
I wouldn't necessarily word it quite like that.

No one can be expected to know all aspects of the hobby or all possible outcomes. Being prepared/well read can only take someone so far. An unfortunate experience to be sure.

Cheers
Steve
 

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