Look all, I am all for the sharing of knowledge and intelligent conversation but this thread is filled with bad information, misleading statements, and unanswered questions. I do not mean to offend anyone but I need to say these things.
First off with the rising popularity of this hobby there are more and more self proclaimed experts talking about what they have heard, or read from posters on boards they know any background about. You have to take 90% of these things posted on the boards with a grain of salt. There is much much much more bad information then good. Now with that being said let me share with the board my evolution of the thread.
I asked Matt a VERY important question
Another thing is was this rock purchased from an LFS who had just received it? If so the melting is just normal and occurs I would say at least 70% of the time. I am not saying it is to be to the point of where you lose half a colony or more, but that does happen. You could just have some zoos melting where the rock was broken.
This question has not been answered and is leaving everyone guessing the cause of his dilemma.
I have yet to hear what iodine products people are using. After all there are probably at least 10 products on the market.
Jason you posted the following
I have had luck with FW dips on zoas.
Like I posted. What did you dip for? What is the history of the coral dipped. What product did you use. You have to realize that Joe Reefer will read you very vague post and will repost it as the gospel. So when I asked you for more information on your post you reply
I dipped with FW for 5 minutes.
Is that not different from what Matt did? And again even if you did use an iodine product was it the same as Matt's? We do not know because you did not post that information.
Here is a VERY possible reason for the 24 nudis dying. If the colony was dying and the zoos were melting away could the chemicals coming from the zoos not kill the nudis? I have never seen a nudi on or very close to melting zoos. But again we need to know the background of this colony before we can come up with these assumptions.
And what kind of water was used? Was it RO water, was it untreated tap water with chlorine and or chloramines? Those 2 compounds could kill the nudis, I really don't know but it is very possible.
And no one including myself has mention the fact that you can put a power head in a 5 gallon bucket with tank water and blow at least 50% of the nudis off.
Jason you say
I have had flatworms in my quarantine tank. “Flatworm Exit” worked wonders. From what I have read on Reef Central, the “Zoanthid Experts” routinely dip every new colony in FW/Loguls/Flatworm Exit as a precaution. The zoanthids can go into a tidal mode (close) and withstand FW (rain during low tide). The pests cannot. The Nudibranchs don't survive FW, but the eggs can. The eggs need to be removed with tweezers.
Sorry Jason but that post right there does way more harm then good.
First off why talk about flatworm exit, it has no pertinence on the subject being discussed. Flatworms are a common problem are easily eradicated.
Who are the "zoanthid experts"? What makes a "zoanthid expert"? Did they all do the same exact procedure with the same success?
And the whole tidal thing is so very very wrong and I am curious where you heard this.
You have to understand the tides and tidal pools first. A tidal pool is nothing more then a place on the reef with higher containing sides then the water during low tide. You make it sound like these tidal pools are completely void of water during low tide. This is just not true. And keep in mind even if it does rain significantly enough to pool in the tidal pool (which does happen) it becomes sea water with a lower specific gravity. I mean think about it, if what you are saying is true about the tidal pools there would not be a single complex living organism. And for a fact many many a fish,coral, and invertebrate is collected from tidal pools during low tide. So with that being said, would it not only be possible but likely that the creatures in these tidal pools develop the ability to withstand water with a lower SG during these times? And keep in mind that the SG amongst the coral reefs are higher then 95% of the home aquarium. But to give you an example I used a 50/50 mix of tank water at 1.025 and RO water. When mixed 50/50 I measured the water to be at 1.013. Not near the 1.00 your statement would have a reader of your post to believe.
And one last thing on your "zoanthid experts", if they were experts they would be quarantining each and every zoo colony they would get.
Again not to make this a negative post or thread but these things needed to be said. And I do hope that Anthony has the time to read through this entire thread and and is thoughts. After all he is an expert and not a dude with a 29 gallon tank posting misleading and incorrect statements on a anonymous message board.
Best Regards, Jack
