Tureefik87
Well-known member
Hi my name is Galvin I’ve been on and off Reefing for the past 5 years. This is
the start to my build for a 150 gal SPS Starfire tank. I picked up this tank
from a fellow Reefer, below is a photo of the tank/stand/hood when I purchased
it (doors were removed).
Here’s a list of equipment that I currently have
Equipment that I need/want to purchase
DT Overview:
I have a total of x4 1” overflows. Here’s the breakdown of my overflow system I have planned,
Sump Overview:
1st chamber will overflow into a 7" sock and the water will be skimmed followed by a baffle (12"H), rubble rock will be placed in this section as well. The baffle will be painted black (skimmer side) to deflect light from the second chamber to decrease algae growth. It will then overflow into my <acronym title="Fragment (a small part of a coral colony removed in order to grow another colony)">Frag</acronym>/Rubble rock section.
On the first baffle a bracket will be placed to hold my Apex probes, pH, temp and later <acronym title="Oxygen Redox Potential">ORP</acronym> and salinity (height will be adjustable). As outlined in the photo I will have two heights of <acronym title="Fragment (a small part of a coral colony removed in order to grow another colony)">frag</acronym> racks for various types of corals that require higher spectrums of light (light brand <acronym title="To be discussed">TBD</acronym>). Rubble rock will be placed underneath the <acronym title="Fragment (a small part of a coral colony removed in order to grow another colony)">frag</acronym> racks.
This will be followed by a second baffle that will be 2” from the top/bottom of the sump. The reason for the baffle not being at the rim of the sump is to ****** the baffle in case of an overflow. With the baffle being 2” from the bottom of the sump this will allow the chaeto to tumble with rubble rock at the bottom as well. A strainer will be on the inside of the sump to act as a filter to prevent any large pieces of debris from entering the return pump and possibly clogging the return lines.
Almost forgot to mention that the water height will be 11” in depth. Here are the volume breakdowns for the two sections in my tank and sump,
Sump Volume
The return will be teed off going to the <acronym title="Display Tank">DT</acronym>
By all means this has been the very first build of my planning things out such as plumbing, if you notice a huge discrepancy in the outline please provide feedback. I look forward to hearing from my fellow reefers!
-galvin
the start to my build for a 150 gal SPS Starfire tank. I picked up this tank
from a fellow Reefer, below is a photo of the tank/stand/hood when I purchased
it (doors were removed).
Here’s a list of equipment that I currently have
- 6 Stage RODI BRS unit – x2 55 gal barrels (fresh/salt mixed)
- 72”L x 24”W x 16”H will be plumbed from my DT into my garage (being built by Dave Peppel)
- Reeflo Dart return pump
- x2 IT2060’s fully programmable LED’s
- ATI Bubble Master 250 w/ x2 PSK2500 pumps
- APEX controller with lab pH probe from BRS
- 140ish pounds of rock – BRS reef saver rock with a mixture of pukani
- One Jebao RW-15
- Jebao doser
- Refractometer
- Red Sea Coral Pro Salt x2 175 gal
Equipment that I need/want to purchase
- x2 MP40’s QD
- I/O Breakout Box for the APEX for my ATO with float switches
- GFO and Calcium reactor
- Upgrades to the APEX controller
DT Overview:
I have a total of x4 1” overflows. Here’s the breakdown of my overflow system I have planned,
- Two of the four will be fully submersed about 3” from the rim of the tank (full flow)
- If the power were to go out and the water from the <acronym title="Display Tank">DT</acronym> were to overflow into the sump it will not over flow
- One overflow about 2.5” from the rim of the tank having a slow trickle into the sump
- The last overflow being 1” from the rim completely elevated over the surface of the water to act as an emergency if the <acronym title="Display Tank">DT</acronym> does decide to overflow
Sump Overview:
1st chamber will overflow into a 7" sock and the water will be skimmed followed by a baffle (12"H), rubble rock will be placed in this section as well. The baffle will be painted black (skimmer side) to deflect light from the second chamber to decrease algae growth. It will then overflow into my <acronym title="Fragment (a small part of a coral colony removed in order to grow another colony)">Frag</acronym>/Rubble rock section.
On the first baffle a bracket will be placed to hold my Apex probes, pH, temp and later <acronym title="Oxygen Redox Potential">ORP</acronym> and salinity (height will be adjustable). As outlined in the photo I will have two heights of <acronym title="Fragment (a small part of a coral colony removed in order to grow another colony)">frag</acronym> racks for various types of corals that require higher spectrums of light (light brand <acronym title="To be discussed">TBD</acronym>). Rubble rock will be placed underneath the <acronym title="Fragment (a small part of a coral colony removed in order to grow another colony)">frag</acronym> racks.
This will be followed by a second baffle that will be 2” from the top/bottom of the sump. The reason for the baffle not being at the rim of the sump is to ****** the baffle in case of an overflow. With the baffle being 2” from the bottom of the sump this will allow the chaeto to tumble with rubble rock at the bottom as well. A strainer will be on the inside of the sump to act as a filter to prevent any large pieces of debris from entering the return pump and possibly clogging the return lines.
Almost forgot to mention that the water height will be 11” in depth. Here are the volume breakdowns for the two sections in my tank and sump,
Sump Volume
- Chamber one – 18 gallons
- Chamber two – 55 gallons
- Total – 73-75 gallons
The return will be teed off going to the <acronym title="Display Tank">DT</acronym>
- <acronym title="Display Tank">DT</acronym> (4 lines for returns 1”) blowing down the back side of my tank to disrupt any dead matter from being pushed towards the front
- Water changes
- <acronym title="Display Tank">DT</acronym> (4 lines for returns 1”) blowing down the back side of my tank to disrupt any dead matter from being pushed towards the front
- Water change 1”
- X2 1” pipes for reactors (<acronym title="Granular Ferric Oxide">GFO</acronym> and calcium) with gate valves and another going back into the <acronym title="Fragment (a small part of a coral colony removed in order to grow another colony)">frag</acronym> area. By doing this this it acts as a small closed loop system back into the sump
By all means this has been the very first build of my planning things out such as plumbing, if you notice a huge discrepancy in the outline please provide feedback. I look forward to hearing from my fellow reefers!
-galvin
